Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum HomeFord-Rangers.com Ranger Forum Home
Home Recent Topics New posts Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register

Ford-rangers.com is a discussion forum, a Ranger forum for people who have questions about fixing or modifying
their Ford Rangers or people who just admire their Ranger. Please join and enjoy sharing experiences!

HVAC Help Needed!       #: 508
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX,
New Topic Reply
 Rate Topic 
 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 09:20 pm
PM Quote Reply
1st Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
So I am recently experiencing a huge issue with my truck - I only have heat!

Let me explain. on the temperature selector (middle dial) if I put it to "cold" hot air blows out. After some testing, I noticed the coldest point is pointing straight up, and as I turn the dial either left or right the hotter the air becomes. If I put the right dial on "AC" or "MAX AC" the AC compressor clicks on, but hot air is still blowing out.


Now some truck background. My truck is a 2003 (Single cab 3.0) that came stock with an electric middle dial (Blend Door?) but I swapped in a 2002 dash/harness that had a cable driven system. I noticed the wires for my 2003 harness essentially went 4 inches back and plugged into the HVAC system independently (at least it seemed so to me) from the rest of the dash wiring, so I created my own wiring for that one section (easy enough, 2 6" wires connected to a stock connector on each end) and called it good.


Is this new section I created an issue? I assumed that the wires went straight to that one spot and did not split off anywhere, but they ran into the large block of wires in the main dash harness and could easily have T'd off somewhere else. If they do tie in to another spot, does that spot even exist on a harness from an older year?


One last follow up that may or may not be related to wiring... Recently I have noticed that when running heat for a long time sometimes I get a burning smell, a bit like a campfire/wood burning type smell, not so much electrical, where should I be looking for the source of that?



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 09:56 pm
PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 1368
Name: 
Occupation: 
Interests: Motorsport/Firearms/IT ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 1368
Last question first: probably leaves in your fan vent section, you'll need to clean them out.


As for the blend door action, sounds like it's either resistance driven, or it's somehow mis calibrated after connecting up the new panel?
Was the dial all the way to one side on the old one, and part way on the new one? (or vice versa)



____________________
2002 - 3.0 - 4x2 - Edge

Upgrades/Maintenance log
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 10:08 pm
PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


Joined: Mon Sep 18th, 2017
Location: Grove City, Ohio USA
Posts: 6528
Name: Jim ...
Occupation: 5 axis cnc programmer ...
Interests: RBV's ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 6528
The first part no idea if it were a dodge I could spell it out in vivid detail there are multiple doors in a dodge, blend doors, stage 1 and stage 2 doors all that affect the division of air through the evap. While the compressor is running does the accumulator get cold?

The second part... one time a leaf got in where the fan is on one of mine, think it was the one I sold my son. I heard it singing against the fan but could smell wood burning especially during slow motor speeds. I never saw it but I hear if a leaf gets on the blower motor resistor you can smell wood burning, would line up with slow motor speed since the resistor gets hottest during slow motor speeds. Taking that thing out is a trick LOL.

All I got anyone else?



____________________
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
The future belongs to those who show up.
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 10:09 pm
PM Quote Reply
4th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
MaDMaXX wrote: Last question first: probably leaves in your fan vent section, you'll need to clean them out.


As for the blend door action, sounds like it's either resistance driven, or it's somehow mis calibrated after connecting up the new panel?
Was the dial all the way to one side on the old one, and part way on the new one? (or vice versa)
Guess I'll look up how to remove leaves soon then.
I kept the control panel, the only thing that is different is the wiring, which is what makes me think this is a wiring issue.



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Jan 21st, 2018 10:16 pm
PM Quote Reply
5th Post
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 1368
Name: 
Occupation: 
Interests: Motorsport/Firearms/IT ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 1368
The blower motor clean out is really pretty easy, it's fairly obvious how it all comes off (if you know where it is on the passenger side)
You'll need to move the coolant and washer fluid tanks, just forward a few inches to give space to pull the motor out that sits between them and the firewall.


Check this post out for my truck where i show what i found and the problems cleaning it out (video)

https://ford-rangers.com/view_post.php?post_id=883



____________________
2002 - 3.0 - 4x2 - Edge

Upgrades/Maintenance log
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 12:47 pm
PM Quote Reply
6th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
JAMMAN wrote: The first part no idea if it were a dodge I could spell it out in vivid detail there are multiple doors in a dodge, blend doors, stage 1 and stage 2 doors all that affect the division of air through the evap. While the compressor is running does the accumulator get cold?

The second part... one time a leaf got in where the fan is on one of mine, think it was the one I sold my son. I heard it singing against the fan but could smell wood burning especially during slow motor speeds. I never saw it but I hear if a leaf gets on the blower motor resistor you can smell wood burning, would line up with slow motor speed since the resistor gets hottest during slow motor speeds. Taking that thing out is a trick LOL.

All I got anyone else?
The compressor gets crazy cold, everything is mechanically fine as far as I can tell, just not sure where my problem lies.



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 02:00 pm
PM Quote Reply
7th Post
CBB9M
23 year Ranger veteran


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 371
Name: Bill ...
Occupation: 
Interests: 
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 371
^^^^ There isn't much wiring in the blend door circuit so if you built it right initially and did a quality job with any splices/connectors (properly soldered joints, insulation, etc) I'd be suspicious of a component and not wiring. As an alternative to digging out a FSM, don't you have known to be working spare parts around that can be quickly swapped in for test purposes?



____________________
-Bill

04 Ranger FX4 Level II, several mods
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 02:14 pm
PM Quote Reply
8th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
CBB9M wrote: ^^^^ There isn't much wiring in the blend door circuit so if you built it right initially and did a quality job with any splices/connectors (properly soldered joints, insulation, etc) I'd be suspicious of a component and not wiring. As an alternative to digging out a FSM, don't you have known to be working spare parts around that can be quickly swapped in for test purposes?The reason I was thinking wiring is because it is possible the temp controls had something to tell they system the user wants cold air, 3 drunk guys (yes we had been drinking when we made the wiring and swapped in the dash) could easily miss a hidden wire in the big mess of wires involved in a whole dash.

Before the swap everything worked perfectly which is why I think wiring. 

As fir spare parts, I do have a complete system - for a 2002 and older setup. Nothing 2003 or newer which is what my truck has.



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 03:42 pm
PM Quote Reply
9th Post
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 1368
Name: 
Occupation: 
Interests: Motorsport/Firearms/IT ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 1368
The air flow runs through the AC radiator regardless of that system being on.

The blend door runs a bypass of the heater core, so whilst wiring might be possible (at least based on the 3 stooges connection session) it still sounds like the door is either getting hung up, or just isn't working fully.



____________________
2002 - 3.0 - 4x2 - Edge

Upgrades/Maintenance log
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 04:09 pm
PM Quote Reply
10th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
MaDMaXX wrote: The air flow runs through the AC radiator regardless of that system being on.

The blend door runs a bypass of the heater core, so whilst wiring might be possible (at least based on the 3 stooges connection session) it still sounds like the door is either getting hung up, or just isn't working fully.
Not sure what it was, but reading this something just clicked, a quick Google search now makes me think my blend door actuator is dead, which I really hope is the case. Now I need time to tear my truck apart...



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 08:22 pm
PM Quote Reply
11th Post
MaDMaXX

Hails from the land of rust!


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 1368
Name: 
Occupation: 
Interests: Motorsport/Firearms/IT ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 1368
Sweet, and I've looked at this, it doesn't look particularly easy, sorry.



____________________
2002 - 3.0 - 4x2 - Edge

Upgrades/Maintenance log
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 08:52 pm
PM Quote Reply
12th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
MaDMaXX wrote: Sweet, and I've looked at this, it doesn't look particularly easy, sorry.I'll be fine, worst case I pull the dash again, that's only a 15 minute job. As long as it isn't expensive (like a faulty wiring job that burns down the truck) I'll be happy with whatever needs to be done.



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 09:16 pm
PM Quote Reply
13th Post
mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Location: Evansville, USA
Posts: 2770
Name: Michael ...
Occupation: Technology Manager ...
Interests: Trucks / Guitars & Music / Things that go BANG ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 2770
Keegan, changing the actuator without removing the dash isn't hard, you just need to know a few little tricks.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 09:51 pm
PM Quote Reply
14th Post
Kealel
Certified Ranger Nutjob


Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Posts: 174
Name: Keegan ...
Occupation: Engineer ...
Interests: Rangers. Duh. Also Robots. ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 174
mhoward wrote: Keegan, changing the actuator without removing the dash isn't hard, you just need to know a few little tricks.Haha that's why I said worst case, after watching some videos online it looks like as long as the plastic isn't too brittle I'll be fine, but if it breaks I'll have to actually open up the blend door which may require a dash removal.

Something I noticed while researching, a lot of trucks either have a cable driven setup like my 2002 or a wire type one. Unlike my wired one that has two wires in the plug, all the how to videos had trucks with 4-6 wires going to the actuator. I feel like this may be a problem if I try to order a new one as there are many different combos for the same years.



____________________
Past:
Baby Girl: 2006 XL 3.0 ~RIP~ 1/26/2015

Current:
Penguin: 2002 XLT 3.SLOW 4x2

River/Kaitlyn: 2003 EDGE 3.GO! 4x2... For now?
~Aspiring Mini Level 2~

The Duck: 2003 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2 - TWIN STICKS!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 10:11 pm
PM Quote Reply
15th Post
mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Location: Evansville, USA
Posts: 2770
Name: Michael ...
Occupation: Technology Manager ...
Interests: Trucks / Guitars & Music / Things that go BANG ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 2770
Two wires doesn't sound right to me.  I believe you need five wires to operate the blend door.  There are two specific electric actuators.  One would be marked "EATC" or "ATC" the other one "MAN" or "MANUAL".

I personally think you have a problem with the wiring. But, if that turns out to not be the case and you need to replace the actuator, see below:

To save yourself some grief when changing the actuator, do two things:
1) Tape a heavy string or nylon cord to the 1/4" ratchet handle, then tie it off to the glove box latch.  This way WHEN you drop the ratchet down behind the duct, you can pull it back with the cord.
2) When installing that back screw, tie a piece of sewing thread to the screw.  Then once the screw is started and maybe half-way in, you can just break the thread and finish tightening it down.  If you drop the screw, you can get it back.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 09:52 am
PM Quote Reply
16th Post
CBB9M
23 year Ranger veteran


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 371
Name: Bill ...
Occupation: 
Interests: 
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 371
Kealel wrote: CBB9M wrote: ^^^^ There isn't much wiring in the blend door circuit so if you built it right initially and did a quality job with any splices/connectors (properly soldered joints, insulation, etc) I'd be suspicious of a component and not wiring. As an alternative to digging out a FSM, don't you have known to be working spare parts around that can be quickly swapped in for test purposes?The reason I was thinking wiring is because it is possible the temp controls had something to tell they system the user wants cold air, 3 drunk guys (yes we had been drinking when we made the wiring and swapped in the dash) could easily miss a hidden wire in the big mess of wires involved in a whole dash.

Before the swap everything worked perfectly which is why I think wiring. 

As fir spare parts, I do have a complete system - for a 2002 and older setup. Nothing 2003 or newer which is what my truck has.

If the blend door worked correctly when you finished work on the first go-around and has since failed, I'd suspect parts (and there's just two). If it's always been broke, I'd go in there with a DMM and check wiring. Five wires, one hot, one ground, and three that run between the actuator and the pot on the dash.



____________________
-Bill

04 Ranger FX4 Level II, several mods
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 09:53 am
PM Quote Reply
17th Post
CBB9M
23 year Ranger veteran


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 371
Name: Bill ...
Occupation: 
Interests: 
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 371
mhoward wrote: Keegan, changing the actuator without removing the dash isn't hard, you just need to know a few little tricks.
Like modifying a tool so it works better in close quarters. ;)



____________________
-Bill

04 Ranger FX4 Level II, several mods
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:09 am
PM Quote Reply
18th Post
mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Location: Evansville, USA
Posts: 2770
Name: Michael ...
Occupation: Technology Manager ...
Interests: Trucks / Guitars & Music / Things that go BANG ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 2770
CBB9M wrote: mhoward wrote: Keegan, changing the actuator without removing the dash isn't hard, you just need to know a few little tricks.
Like modifying a tool so it works better in close quarters. ;)

Yep!  For most people, you would have to grind the socket down a bit.  When I did my EATC mod, I luckily had a socket that was short to begin with.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:22 am
PM Quote Reply
19th Post
CBB9M
23 year Ranger veteran


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 371
Name: Bill ...
Occupation: 
Interests: 
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 371
mhoward wrote: CBB9M wrote: mhoward wrote: Keegan, changing the actuator without removing the dash isn't hard, you just need to know a few little tricks.
Like modifying a tool so it works better in close quarters. ;)

Yep!  For most people, you would have to grind the socket down a bit.  When I did my EATC mod, I luckily had a socket that was short to begin with.


Initially, that is a tremendous help, however, as the hex screw comes out the available workspace space diminishes. This is where either tack welding that socket to a small piece of steel or maybe using a compact 1/4" drive breaker helps so much. Or in my case I happen to have a bought tool that amounts to being a small piece of flat bar with a locking or rotatable piece of hex stock that engages with the socket. Result = minimal tool height when engaged with the socket. :D

Last edited on Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:22 am by CBB9M



____________________
-Bill

04 Ranger FX4 Level II, several mods
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:44 am
PM Quote Reply
20th Post
mhoward
Hey look ~ they ~ bounce!


Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Location: Evansville, USA
Posts: 2770
Name: Michael ...
Occupation: Technology Manager ...
Interests: Trucks / Guitars & Music / Things that go BANG ...
Status: 
Offline
Reputation: 
Reputation Points: 2770
I wonder if the head room varies slightly from truck to truck. I used the ratchet to remove the screws without the aid of anything else. Last couple of threads I turned by hand so I wouldn't lose the screw.



____________________
-- Michael

2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 07:40 pm Top  

Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Tech Section > Electrical Tech > HVAC Help Needed!

Users viewing this topic



PHP Version: 8.3.33
Server version: 11.4.13-MariaDB
UltraBB 2.01.01 Copyright © 2008-2026 Jim & Chris
Page processed in 0.0704 seconds (39% database + 61% PHP). 102 queries executed.