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1999 Ranger "Gold Dust" - Part       #: 1828
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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2020 11:01 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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A few things (like the headers) came to mind after I hit 'post'.

After sleeping on it, for now I'm going to stick with that camshaft you mentioned, TM headers, perhaps a bigger throttle body, and a tune. I might stroke it at a later date. I have to remember that my funds are not infinite. Still an expo donor motor as before.

I realized that if I did go with an older motor (perhaps carbuerated depending on what I can get a hold of) is unlike the explorer where I can repin a couple connectors and make it all work together, suddenly nothing works together and I'd have to reengineer a whole lot more than I was anticipating, perhaps getting to the point where aftermarket mechanical gauges and a full rewire becomes necessary. I believe something *that* extensive is beyond what I am capable of. Certainly beyond my patience level. 

But, back to reality for a moment. One thing that does concern me, if I were to go 347, is if anything behind it would still handle it. Namely the trans and rear diff. Since I'm also 4x4 and intend to stay that way, that transfercase would also need to handle that extra power, and therefor the front diff.

If they aren't beefy enough to handle that, well there went the budget. Not only that, but we all know how light the Ranger is in the rear end, and how difficult getting traction can be with these. Although my 8.8 is heavier than the 7.5, and I can install traction bars to help the issue, at some point that motor will be putting out enough HP that getting the traction needed to start moving will be a challenge. 

But, I digress. Today I'm going to try to make some things happen. Finally finish out the 8.8 assembly so it's ready to get under the vehicle, then get that bed off and out of the way so I can get to those bushings. If that doesn't take too long, I plan on getting as many bushings replaced in a day as I can. 

I also plan on seeing if that expo glass fits in my Ranger power 06 mirrors. If they don't, well I guess I'm buying those Muth mirror glass assemblies. Which, I did email them and confirmed that they *are* heated. 

How much will actually happen? How much will actually work? Stay tuned to find out.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2020 01:29 pm
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Mike69

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Keep up the good work & keep us posted on your continued progress. Don't forget that if you do purchase those turn signal/heated mirror glass that you will need an additional kit for the heated function. https://shop.muthco.com/heated-mirrors-on-demand



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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2020 07:32 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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First and foremost. Not a thing got accomplished, due to a whole lotta bad luck. 
I started off trying to get the bearings out on the rear end. Only one side got completely removed, before I realized my new bearings are the wrong size. What I ordered is made to fit the 31 spline axles, not the 28. The rockauto listing does not specify axle spline, so that was unfortunate. Now I must order new bearings and seals that are the correct size. That 'more info' tab sometimes specifies size to measure against. Lesson learned.
Didn't attempt the clutch packs or the cover.
Nothing happened with the bed. Didn't get there.
After dinner I played with the mirrors some. This one's great, buckle up guys. *sarcasm*

The new power mirrors I bought are in fact 06 mirrors for a Ranger. No surprise there. However, since they are not OEM mirrors.... They are not built to the same design internally as the OEM mirrors. 
That means that they, effectively, use a proprietary mounting for the glass part. Therefor, no glass except what came in it will fit. Not the muth glass, not the explorer glass.
However, if we're talking OEM to OEM, it appears that the explorer glass IS interchangable. So, there's that. I could swap backing plates, but I doubt that they're made to the same tolerances. There's also a good risk of breaking glass in the process.
So, if I want heated glass (or the muth) bad enough, that means I need to buy yet another set of mirrors, this time from a local salvage. Oh, and I had a feeling the connector on the mirrors was different than what came on my older doors. It is. I will have to fabricate a new plug. 
So, yeah. I'm going to step back a bit and plan my next move. Suggestions, anyone?
For anyone wanting to get 06 mirrors to mod, make sure you get OEM mirrors. Not the aftermarkets. Lessons learned.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 19th, 2020 08:40 pm
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Eddie Money
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Kool vue are the oem replacement mirrors. 

Right now you can buy the 06 pair, power with the chrome back for half of what I paid last year. Ugh....sigh..

last year there was no inventory available and everyone was out of stock. They came straight from the manufacturer.

Find a coupon code a save even more.
https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Ranger/Kool_Vue/Mirror/2007/XLT/SET-FD102ER.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&utm_campaign=223008453&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmZDxBRDIARIsABnkbYSmY4E2rcOTP7--08wVVvSX8yTnlSaWL1zSgDeEHXl1qJPIFnfAmIMaAncfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Last edited on Sun Jan 19th, 2020 08:50 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Jan 26th, 2020 04:22 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Got my clutch packs in, bearings and seals replaced, and put 'er all back together. That went pretty smoothly this time.
A friend of mine suggests to replace the U bolts at the same time, as they have a tendency to stretch, he says.
Mine look fine to me, but they aren't expensive and I suppose it couldn't  hurt.
What say you all? Replace the u bolts too or keep my stock ones? Maybe upgrade to a stronger set while I'm taking them apart?




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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 26th, 2020 04:52 pm
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Eddie Money
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Looking really nice!! 

If they are inexpensive and you already have it out might as well replace them... If you need more money for other parts of the build and can wait till they are needed...

Is the explorer housing a little wider?

Last edited on Sun Jan 26th, 2020 04:53 pm by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Sun Jan 26th, 2020 10:11 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I'm kind of leaning towards just replacing them just because. I don't see how it could hurt anything.

I have a tendency to replace certain things just because, especially in the brake systems. 

Explorer housing? Nothing on the diff is from an explorer. Calipers, rotors and pads are all Mustang, the diff and axles are from an ~04 Ranger.

Hmm, now that I think about it, I think I'll need new U bolts anyway. The old u bolts are for the 7.5, and the axle tubes for the 8.8 are bigger. Well there's my "Duh!" moment for the day. Looks like I'll be finding a set.

Anywho, I made a slight change. My plan was to take the bed off, replace any and all suspension bushings, the rear end assembly, then put 'er all back together. Well with the weather as cold and crappy as it is, I'm just going to replace the rear end and when it warms up a bit, then take the bed off and do suspension work. Not only that, but I have several things in the bed which would have to come out. At that later date, those parts in the bed now won't be there then. Makes things easier and more pleasant.

Next bit of buisness I'm going to tackle is figure out where it's still leaking from with a high tech bucket of water, then patch/seal as necessary. After that, dash goes back. While it's out, however, the edges are getting some SEM black. The whole thing will get redone after the engine swap as I'll need to take some panels apart to make a few small changes at that point, and I'd rather not risk scratching the new paint/dye, as tough as it is. 

The Ranger will be a bit of an ugly duckling for a bit, with mismatched doors and a half-painted dash. But, that's OK. 

As far as mirrors go, I think I've settled on getting an OEM set and sticking some Muth glass in them. Expensive way out, but I want to do this right and I can't come up with a way to get that turn signal function as cleanly as Muth did. Plus the heated glass is a bonus. The puddle lights should be easily accomplished with some white LED grommet lights, but I haven't 100% decided which light I'm going to use. It must be small and low profile as not to interfere with the operation of the mirror. 

I do apologize for the slowness as of late. I've been focusing on training for my new position, which is going very well.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Mon Jan 27th, 2020 09:33 am
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mhoward
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Perhaps those new aftermarket 2006+ power mirrors you bought would be of interest to someone here who just wants to upgrade without signals and heat?  Otherwise, you will have more spare parts than you can imagine.  You also have the 2006+ manual mirrors that someone may be interested in.  Just sayin'...



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Sun Feb 9th, 2020 10:13 am
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Some more progress.
I found and fixed the water leak. Turns out it was a body seam just below the passenger side corner of the windshield, but not the windshield seal itself.
I found some caulking that is made for exterior use, primarily for weather sealing, so I figured that should do the trick. Since it's not exactly warm, I'm going to give it a week to cure, just to be safe.
I also got the edges of the dash sprayed with SEM black interior dye. The dash is ready to go back in, now.
Oh, and I apologize for the lack of progress as of late. I got switched to 3rd shift, which has my schedule completely on it's head. I have to figure out when I can do things to the truck.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Mon Feb 10th, 2020 12:54 pm
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Eddie Money
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I hope you took befores and afters of the interior. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turned out. I've only seen 2 fx4s with black interior. One was beat and pretty bleached so I was not thrilled how it looked.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 11th, 2020 10:58 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I have enough photos of what the interior looked like before that I didn't feel it necessary to take more. The photos at the start of this thread are a good example, actually. 
All I can say is, you're sure to like my black interior. This black SEM is no joke. I tested it on the fuse panel (driver's side) and after it dried, I swear it looks like it was molded that color. 
Gotta admit, after I did the outline on my dash, I had a serious "what have I done" moment. No regrets thus far, though. 
I have got to get that dash in this weekend. Being this stagnant is driving me insane...!



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 Posted: Tue Feb 11th, 2020 11:09 am
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mhoward
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I will be available as an extra pair of hands if you need them... just say the word!



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / 5r44e Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Tue Feb 11th, 2020 01:55 pm
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Eddie Money
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Take your time and do it right the first time. No one here is judging you on your time or content. Builds take as long as they need to. You are off to a good start. Keep up the good work on your ranger and your profession when you are finished I'd love to see a side by side before and after of the interior.



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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2020 06:48 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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More progress.

Dash is back in (about a week ago). Interior remains disassembled otherwise.

I crawled out from underneath it a few minutes ago. The current rear end is completely disconnected. Brake lines, ABS cable, U bolts, drive shaft, shocks, all unbolted/disconnected. It's ready to roll out from underneath. 

Not quite sure how I'm going to do that just yet. My jack isn't capable of lifting the vehicle high enough to get the weight completely off of it so I can roll it out. I may have to get another jack (which I've been wanting to do anyway) that is capable of lifting it high enough on it's own.

I'd like to roll the old one out, swap the wheels+tires onto the new rear end, roll it underneath the truck and bolt it all together. That sounds like the easiest way to me. ....Maybe I shouldn't have made that big ol' brownells order just yet. Oops.

Hmm. Maybe a big  block of wood between the jack cup and the hitch might do the trick. Another 4" - 6" is all a guy needs. Maybe not even that much.

Oh, my existing U bolts will fit the new rear end. I'll reuse them for now, maybe replace them later. I haven't had a chance to clean them up and take a hard look at them, but I don't see any damage to them right off the bat. They came off easily, so no heat/beating required. 

Oh, almost forgot. Driver's side door is bolted on and hooked up. It still needs an alignment before it can be seriously driven, though. Once the new rear end is under it, I plan on taking it to get it aligned. 

Once that happens, I'll start driving it to work so that the clutches can break in under the power (or lack thereof) of the 3.0. Even if I'm hard on the 3.0, it shouldn't be too awful taxing on the rear end, compared to the 5.0 or even 4.0



The ranger is a bit of an ugly duckling atm.... A dusty, ugly, duckling.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Sun Mar 1st, 2020 09:53 am
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she looks great, just the way I like them!
Two floor jacks are a HUGE help when swapping axles yes.
Or some huge jack stands and a block of wood to get the truck up that high!
However you do it just be safe, we don't need Rangers falling on top of us!!
Glad to see the black dye is working out, I dyed some of my interior pieces with SEM paint geesh about 15 years ago now? still holding their color. It is only if you scratch the plastic that the old color shows through...so don't let anyone put their feet on your dash! lol



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 Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2020 03:42 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I'm starting to have some second thoughts, pertaining to which direction I want to go, down the road. Pun intended.

I've been having a ton of fun with my F150's 5 speed stick shift, and I'm wondering what all it would take to put an M5OD behind the Windsor, and have it mount up into the Ranger.

I've been doing some research, apparently the M5OD came behind several engines. Good news, potentially. 

However, that brings up two questions that I do not have knowledge on.

1. Given that the M5OD has came equipped with multiple engine configurations (2.9, 3.0, 4.0 OHV + 4.0 SOHC), did Ford use the same bolt pattern for all these engines, or (my guess) did Ford design the M5OD to allow the bellhousing to be swapped to allow it to easily be used in several equipment configurations? Would the mounting bolts that bolt it into the vehicle also be similar across the board?

2. I noticed on a tech article, the gear ratios inside the transmission are not all the same. If I read the table correctly, the following is true.

1991+ 3.0 Ranger / 1988+ 4 Cylinder Rangers / 1988-1992 2.9 2WD Rangers had M5ODs with the following gear ratios.

1st 3.72, 2nd 2.20, 3rd 1.50, 4th 1.00, 5th 0.79, Reverse 3.40.

However, the 4.0 OHV Ranger from 91-2000 differed slightly. 2001+ 4.0 SOHC shares the same numbers.

1st 3.40, 2nd 2.05, 3rd 1.31, 4th 1.00, 5th 0.79, Reverse 3.40


I could ask "why the difference", but I believe perhaps a better question would be "which is better for this application"? I lean towards the 4.0 transmission as I believe it would be stronger. Hopefully someone knows a bit more about these than I. 

I would also assume that if I got one from a 4.0 Ranger, it would bolt in with minimal issue. And, yes, I have come to grips that this will require some modification to make room for that stick to come up through the floor. 

Of course, if there's an implication I'm missing, feel free to point it out. Better now than later.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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BAD NEWS
M5od from behind the v6 will not work the bell housings are wrong for the 302
Ford did not make interchangable bellhousings..........believe me when I tell you we wish they did!!
The SOHC version of the 5 speed is pretty stout, but it only fits behind 60 degree v6's
The 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 phv and 4.0 sohc are all Cologne (as in germany) 60 degree V6 engines
The 3.0 is a 90 degree V6 engine
None of these 5 speeds will bolt up to your 302
TOTALLY DIFFERENT bellhousings, flywheels, clutch size, starters, everything. 


GOOD NEWS
There are versions of the Mazda 5 speed manual that did come behind the 302 and have a 302 bellhousing.
However most of those will put the shifter in the wrong spot (87-95 302 F150 and FSB). This can be worked around, but still makes it tricky to put the 5 speed into a Ranger or RBV

---------------------> The one you want is the M5OD-R2 found in 99-08 F150 behind the 4.2L 6 cylinder

This is the late model M5OD with the heavy duty internals (HD and the R2 puts the shifter in the correct sport for a Ranger
The M5OD-HD-R2

Right now I am only seeing the 2wd versions avail on ebay but I did not search very hard
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=f150+4.2+5+speed+transmission&_sacat=6000&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=6000&_odkw=m5od-r2+transmission

Wiki about the M5od
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_M5OD_transmission

I have one of these downstairs, came from a 2002 F150 4.2L V6 4x4
I have the 5 speed transmission, shifter, 4406m transfer case and all shifter parts. These transmissions sell for $600-1200 depending. I hoard them, if I find one in the junk yard I pull it and take it home.
I am keeping mine as I am planning to build a 2001 Sport trac with a 306/m5od-r2/4406m t case next........

These transmissions are getting pretty hard to find, rare like hens teeth. Although you can find them online from reputable wreckers as there were lots of V6 F150 used as service trucks, less of them were 4x4.
No you cannot convert a 2wd version to 4x4 easily....



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 Posted: Sat Mar 14th, 2020 11:34 am
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4wd version
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2003-04-HERITAGE-FORD-F-150-6-CYL-4X4-5-SPD-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-M5R2/273858337087?hash=item3fc33a993f:g:i2QAAOSwx4dc5VaP

I found ONE!!! Seriously only ONE on ebay right now
The rest are RWD/2wd



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 Posted: Sun Mar 15th, 2020 09:38 pm
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Ah, cool.

I had done some more looking and found a post where Rwenzing said the same thing you are, and for guys like me with 4x4, getting the matching t case would make things the easiest. Custom driveshafts will be in order, but I would need one from trans to rear end, anyway. Not a huge deal to me.

Good to hear the shifter will be in the right place, although I wonder if there's a panel in my floor that's able to be taken out, or if I have to crack out a cutter to open up said floor for a shifter. 

A  bigger concern though, is just how easy it will be to cram those F150 parts between the frame rails of my Ranger. I'm OK with notching or some other light cutting (IE, clear a sensor or provide access to a fastener), but if I have to start hacking out large sections, that's biting off more than I can chew, mostly because I don't know how to weld it back on to fit. 

Not sure if I mentioned it, but if I do decide to go stickshift, I'll skip the donor all together and get the parts I need individually. At that point, having a donor where several major components won't be utilized seems like a waste to me.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Mon Mar 16th, 2020 10:48 am
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The parts 98% bolt into a Ranger, no frame rail notching needed.
Using stock Explorer?Ranger and F150 parts everything CAN bolt in like the truck left the factory this way. No Chop cut or welding required.
There is a plate in your floor to remove that gives access and a spot for the floor shifter. Just like if your ranger left the factory as a 5 speed, there are two different access panels, one is solid and used on automatic trucks, one has a hole in it for the floor shifter. 4ea 8mm screws hold these panels down, it is right under your carpet.

The manual transfer case shifter (if you go that route) would require cutting a small hole just to the right of your right knee for the T case shifter.
You only need the explorer 5.0 donor, the rest of the parts like the 5 speed transmission and transfer case can come from Ebay, a wrecker, craigslist, rebuilder, or heck even me if I find the parts Ill pack them up and ship them no problem



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I build custom RBV, specializing in drivetrain conversions, wiring, suspension and complete custom trucks
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 Posted: Mon Mar 16th, 2020 01:25 pm
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Scrambler82
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Let see, what to talk about first... !
Ford's small blocks respond best to a head change... the fastest way to increase the performance is get a set of Trick Flow Street Heads.  You can gain a quick 50- 75 HP by just bolting them on.
A good set of header should go along with the Heads; letting the engine breathe better includes a way to let the burnt gas out.
Then the intake... and yes the cam is a biggy; the choices are vast and everyone has an opinion, as I do, I like a higher lift cam with a short duration... lets the valves open wide but for a short time.  Gives the engine a little more low end power, which is what most of us need, some of us just don't know it !  Don't just buy the cam based on an opinion, which it what a lot if us do, if you think the Cam choice is a problem, call the cam manufacturer of the Cam you are thinking on and consult with them, have all your other specs available, i.e. heads, headers, gear ratio, trans, tier size, etc. !   They will surprise you with a quick choice and from my experience... a good one !
The gear ratios, hard one really, what do you want to do with the truck, what cam are you using and when does the power come in.  Most people go with the tire size but if you change your tire size and the engine isn't setup for the rpm, it won't work as well as it should.  If you already have your gears in place, then work the other parts around that.  Most of the Ranger/Ex Swaps the people use the Ex Cam, it works, but it doesn't work the best !
The header thing always bothered me, Torque Monsters or something like it appear to be the way to go, I really wish there were other choice in design.
Headers will let the gases out after they burn, they can scavenge the combustion chambers and get the left over gases out of the way allowing a new fresh fuel/Ox charge to get in and as much burnt gases out as possible.   
From there because of the fresh charge, the great breathing heads, and if the the intake is working the ignition is working, and all your choices work as they should, you get good horse power.
Choice wisely, make sure which ever parts you buy  will work together.   Contact the Manufacturers when selecting your parts !

OK, I lost what ever I was going to say about what ever it was so I will leave the rest of my comments for another time.
Rear axle looks good.
Keep posting, interesting project !

Ltr

Just an added note, I have found that a 302/5.0L-W have sufficient power to get the job done. I have seen 5.0L turn 9 seconds in the quarter mile, but if I were to do a swap again, with a new build, I think I would go 331 or a 331 Kit but 4.0" bore, which would get you to a 327 cu. in. engine.   Something from 327 to 331 would be a great size for the Ranger.   The 347, although you don't hear much about the oil consumption that used to flood the information hy-way, I still wonder about how it was fixed, the extra length of the connecting rod for the added stroke, drives the wrist pins into the lower oil rail, which is where the extra oil consumption hits but since we haven't heard much about it lately, it may have been worked out !   Ltr

Last edited on Mon Mar 16th, 2020 01:33 pm by Scrambler82



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Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike's Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Wed Mar 18th, 2020 10:20 am
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Idahome


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I agree
I have always liked the 331, the 347 just pushes the stock block too far.....but my friend Brett (who does high power SBF ALOT) has assured me the 347 kits when done right are reliable and streetable, even with a stock block. Still if I have the money for a stroker for my BII I'm going 331 built with a stock explorer block.
The gt40 and gt40p heads can be ported and polished to make good power, sometimes this is way cheaper then a set of $2000 aluminum heads.
The best part about going to the 5.0 from the v6 is often over looked. I LOVE the v6 engines, the pushrod 4.0 and SOHC engine are AWESOME. Yes I said it the sohc engine is a good engine!! (After 1999, even better after 2004) BUT the V6 transmissions just plain SUCK at these power levels.....300 hp and up......you betting have something other then a 5r55e in there or you are going to need a large wallet. 
The other great part about going 5.0 = reliability....these v8's just flat out run, start, stop, run, they can take some serious abuse on a daily. You can let it sit for a year in freezing temps or in the middle of the desert, turn the key and its like nothing ever happened.



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 Posted: Fri Mar 20th, 2020 07:38 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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Glad to hear no chopping/cutting is required. That's the one thing that was going to turn me away, as I'm not properly equipped to deal with that. 

Looks like Gold Dust may just be going stick shift.....



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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 Posted: Fri Mar 20th, 2020 09:29 am
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410customs

Idahome


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wicked cool!! You will love it!



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 Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2020 11:31 am
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TheArcticWolf1911
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I should have posted this a week ago, but I sort of got sidetracked. My apologies.....

I'm sure you're all sick of hearing about it, lord knows I am, but I must mention COVID-19.

The plant I work for produces mostly (80% +) automotive parts. Unfortunately, several companies have cut or outright canceled many orders, as companies cancel orders with them. Businesses shuttering for the time being and all that working it's way down to us. Many of our machines sit dormant, but nobody has lost their job, as of writing. That said, the future of the company isn't exactly clear. We aren't exactly a large company, having less than 100 people employed.

So, what does this mean for the project? 

I, honestly, don't know if I will have a job next week, or the week after, so on and so forth. Until then, I've cut out all unnecessary expenditure as a precautionary measure. This, sadly, includes Gold Dust. 

The project is not canceled. Just put on hiatus until the country calms down and orders pick back up to normal, whenever that is. That said, when things do level out again, I'll resume progress, starting with an alignment. Not sure if I could even get an alignment right now, actually.....

Be safe everyone.



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1999 Ford Ranger XLT - 3.0 V6 4x4 - Loaded (Totaled) 143k. Rest in Peace, Gold Dust.
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