2000 v8 swap - 8 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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Junglejoe
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Ill.send you an email later James.. I "think" I've got the ac wireing figured out..key word.."think" ðŸ¤£

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Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 10:33 am

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keep the good news coming!
I am sure you have it once its clear in your head where and why, its like "oh, that's pretty simple"
Of course it took 4 days of pounding my head against a wall and drawing out AC wiring sketches to get to that point

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Posted: Mon Aug 31st, 2020 10:37 am

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Yeah bro.. thats how it seems for me too. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

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Posted: Tue Sep 1st, 2020 07:04 pm

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Ok , so a.little update about pushrod measuring..
I talked to an engine shop who builds race engines. No, this is not a race engine, but same principle applies on pushrods..

If you are using a pumped lifter, solid lifter, or frozen up lifter when measuring for pushrod length you DO add.050 to the overall length.
I had a couple "shops" say you dont add anything.. ok...
So if thats the case, if you use a solid lifter, then you take away the .025-.060 for lifter compression.. your new pushrods you just ordered will be short. That's what the race shop tells me and several other engine dudes. I ordered plus .050 for my pushrods.
I ordered 6.800 pushrods. Which with Twisted Wedge heads is odd but couple other's have had to use that length as well. I tried everthing from 6.600-6.900 with the Adjustable Pushrod tool.. the witness mark left in the center of the valve was perfect, under .040 width with 6.750 length with a pumped lifter..then you add the .050 to the length for the lifter compression.

On my engine build, its not to crazy. In fact its nothing exotic at all. Good top end on a bone stock 142k explorer engine. Lots of port work and a small baby cam that will sound like a lion but is actually a small kitten. Able to drive across country. Qhich is why I built the truck.. to run back and forth to Florida when I go visit Family and just have a nice daily driver versus buying one and it tear up a couple months later. Sold my 6.0 powerstroke that was my daily that became a money pit. That build got carried away.. 11 inch lift, 37's, 600hp and 1100tq.. crew cab long bed .. just way to much truck for me.

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Posted: Wed Sep 2nd, 2020 10:25 am

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OH man bye bye 6.0 sheesh I love those things, can make double the power of the 7.3 and get 1.5 the mileage doing it....
I had a 06 F350 6.0 dually I traded for......wouldn't start for the dude after he did some bulletproofing.....I got it right when we sold our CO house and had to let it go cheap....turns out it was the battery terminals = regret! I hear ya though, 11" lift gets old, 1100 ft lbs does not though........hahaha

SBF in a Ranger = perfect fit
Well done on the pushrods, VERY good info there. The witness mark tells the truth, the stock valvetrain's are pretty sloppy, the actual RR ratio of the stock setup is all over the map between 1.4 and 1.6
So anything tighter is a big improvement, hyd lifters are a little forgiving.

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Posted: Wed Sep 2nd, 2020 12:30 pm

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Yeah bro.. them 6.0's are good..when they're good.. but when they start breaking.. &%#^*!#%^#$@!!!! MMM HMMM!!!
HAHAHAAAA..
Its over in Chicago now, drove it over to the new owner..he was happy as hell.. for now.

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Posted: Wed Sep 2nd, 2020 09:42 pm

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I saw that pic, I was researching the headers for the 300K truck and what do you know, Junglejoe asking the same questions about 5.0 conversion headers back in 2016.... on another unmentioned ranger site...........smart man, research is key!

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Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2020 08:29 am

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410customs wrote:
I saw that pic, I was researching the headers for the 300K truck and what do you know, Junglejoe asking the same questions about 5.0 conversion headers back in 2016.... on another unmentioned ranger site...........smart man, research is key!
Yeah I strted reading about v8 rangers a while back..Ive built.so many s10's.I lkat count. Some stock ck TBI 350 5 speed daily drivers, 305 daily drivers, any v8 I could find just about. Throw set of headers and dual exhaust and flomasters and drove them a while and sold them. This one dude had a 302.ho ranger down there in Florida that had a cam and sounded exactly like a mustang. Loved that truck!! I said maybe one day I'll do a ranger.. 15 years later..its finally happening.

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410customs

Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2020 10:26 am

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and we have come full circle.....
I have two Chevys outside, both my neighbors trucks. His wifes S15 3 door blazer on Superlift the 4.3 took a dump so we have a good 4.3 on the stand in the garage getting re sealed and ready to go in. Meanwhile his 04 1500 with a 4.8L v8 also needed some love, the fuel pump not only failed but all 3 lines rusted off the top of it and the metal bits are stuck in the plastic lines....... in 25 years I had one Chevy come through my shop...now there are two outside..... while you are doing a v8 Ranger.... the circle of wrenching is complete.

Silly Chevy guys....guess what they are driving while we fix both of their Chevys? Yup...the second chance 3.0 to 4.0 98 Ranger we built...I traded my half to him for his labor building my addition :) HAHAHAHAHAHA My new neighbors are hard core chevy family.... falling for a 98 Ranger :) I am really taking my time fixing up the chevys enjoying watching them daily the ranger :)

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Junglejoe, Eddie Money

Posted: Thu Sep 3rd, 2020 04:22 pm

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Lmao... yeah bro.. To be honest, I've had them all. ..Dodge , Chevy and Ford.. OVERALL...Ford just does better for me and my wild adventure driving habits sometimes..ðŸ˜Ž
Even work trucks, again..Ive hauled the same stuff in them all.. Fords get it done better in my opinion..AND less rust! Metal must be better or something. Here in Missouri.. 4-5 year old Chevys and Dodges rusted out..the beds. Id die! I'm from Florida where there is no rust issues unless you live on one of the islands.. then they look like thy were dug up out of the ocean.. salt water kills all of them

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Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2020 08:33 am

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So I'm digging into the wiring now..
Its not as bad as I make it seem, but being color blind can make it tricky. Im looking for the dkgreen_white oil pressure signal wire that has to be moved to the 42 pin connector on the ranger side to activate the oil pressure gauge..

I looked on the v8 harness, there is a green/white qire there (pin26) where this wire goes on the ranger side..is that correct?
I do not have the 2000 explore book, EVTM.

It it in the ac/starter plug on the ranger, or here....? I do bave the book for the 2000 ranger , I find it very difficult to.read and understand and whats going on. The oil pressure wire (for the dash)

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Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2020 11:19 am

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The dark green with white oil pressure feed wire on the 4.0 is found in the small square plug on the drivers side near the battery, ON THE TRUCK SIDE OF THINGS
The 4.0 oil pressure switch wire is routed through this plug, it is called C139, from here it normally goes right over to the side of the engine. ON the 5.0 it is routed in with the rest of the engine wires.

You will re locate the wire from the C130 plug to the big 42 pin connector at the BACK of the intake....plug C112 I think on a ranger (c115 in 5.0 trucks).
The same 42 pin plug the rest of the truck to drivetrain wires go through.
You will find pin 26 on the V8 side is the same dark green with this oil pressure wire coming FROM the engine

cut and paste from the 02 sport trac thread:

"Next on to the oil pressure signal wire.
In a 2002 Sport trac the darg green with white (DG/W) oil pressure wire is routed through plug C139 where it then goes over to the v6 engine to the oil pressure sensor.
In a 2000 V8 Explorer the oil pressure sensor wire can be found at the C115 plug, pin 26.
So we need to remove the DG/W wire, circuit 253, from the C139 connector and run it up to the C110/115 plug and insert into pin 26. First I removed the wire with needed pin from the old donor truck harness and routed it along with our alternator batt light wire....

Here is plug C139 on the 02ST side of things, wire is cut and re routed up to the C110 plug:

Pin 26 on a 02ST is blank, so I simply had to drill a small hole, remove the red pin keeper and insert our new wire:

Its destination on the V8 side of things, pin 26 DG/W is the oil pressure sensor signal:

Now it runs right alongside the LG/R alternator to instrument cluster wire

"

Ranger is similar to sport trac

I hope this helps!!

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Junglejoe, VelociRanger

Posted: Fri Sep 4th, 2020 04:05 pm

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THANKS J..Appreciate all your help man...its getting close!!!

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410customs

Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2020 05:00 pm

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Checked AGAIN...lol.
Just making sure in these pushrods..6.80 is what will be ordered. Little odd for milled heads and .035 headgasket.. but I dont make the rules..just follow them.. for the most part..ðŸ˜Žâ˜•

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Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2020 06:47 pm

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Ok.. so Im looking for the dkgreen/qhite oil pressure dash wire..2000 ranger, 3.0..

If I have this understanding correct, please be patient with me guys.. wireing is not my thing , Sorry.
I'm suppose to move this green qire to thw 42 pin connecter block... right?

So Im looking at my 42 pin connector, there is already a green/white wire there..on the truck side.. does this mean its already there or no?

Attachment: 20200907_174257.jpg (Downloaded 31 times)

Last edited on Mon Sep 7th, 2020 06:49 pm by Junglejoe

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Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2020 07:07 pm

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One more for the day... ac wireing.

Here is what I have going on, just want to make sure before I make a new plug...
I hooked back up the v6 ac harness.. I just need to connect them to the explorer side of things..

Obviously the yellow is the starter..

Black and green/white to ac compressor..

Red/yellow and black white to low pressure switch by the radiator..

I'll edit this here in a second..have to look at my notes.. :)

So on this plug, the explore...
Pin 11 is the oil pan wire..than can be depinned and taken out..
Pin 6 will be the ac control(clutch?)
Pin 3 will be the ground
Pin 5 is starter
Pin 10 im not sure yet...

Last edited on Mon Sep 7th, 2020 09:43 pm by Junglejoe

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2020 10:36 am

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PIN 10, green with white is the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on the side of the 5.0 block behind and below the ac compressor
THAT IS THE WIRE THAT NEEDS TO GO TO PIN 26 on the 42 pin connector.......

White with pink, pin 11 is the oil level sensor, can be removed yes.

Pin 6 is ac clutch control yes
pin 3 is a ground yes, I do not think you need this ground anymore as the AC clutch will get its new ground from the back with white wire that leaves the AC pressure switch.
Yellow with light blue is the starter control YES

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2020 10:45 am

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The red with yellow is for the AC high pressure switch
High pressure switch is drivers side near the battery tray
Low pressure switch is the one by the heater blower motor.

Your new AC wiring is going to work like this:
+ feed for AC compressor clutch will come from TRUCK, the Grey with white, pin 6 from above

The - wire goes like this

New ground wire over by the cruise control speed control/ blower motor (You need to make a new ground)
The ground wire goes INTO the low pressure switch from the fender.
Leaves the low pressure switch as RED WITH YELLOW, goes across engine over to the HIGH pressure switch as RED/yellow (this wire already exists in your harness, you have it correct)
Then LEAVES the high pressure switch as black with white and now becomes the ground for the ac compressor clutch

So ground ------------------->in (low press switch) out as red/y -------------------------------------> red/y ------->in -(high press switch) --out as black with white--------------------------> ground for compressor clutch

This way as long as you have enough pressure the low press switch will pass the ground through
Then as long as you do not have too much pressure the high press switch will pass the ground through

Now the DASh can turn the ac compressor on and off via pin 6 the grey with white

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2020 02:48 pm

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410customs wrote:
The red with yellow is for the AC high pressure switch
High pressure switch is drivers side near the battery tray
Low pressure switch is the one by the heater blower motor.

Your new AC wiring is going to work like this:
+ feed for AC compressor clutch will come from TRUCK, the Grey with white, pin 6 from above

The - wire goes like this

New ground wire over by the cruise control speed control/ blower motor (You need to make a new ground)
The ground wire goes INTO the low pressure switch from the fender.
Leaves the low pressure switch as RED WITH YELLOW, goes across engine over to the HIGH pressure switch as RED/yellow (this wire already exists in your harness, you have it correct)
Then LEAVES the high pressure switch as black with white and now becomes the ground for the ac compressor clutch

So ground ------------------->in (low press switch) out as red/y -------------------------------------> red/y ------->in -(high press switch) --out as black with white--------------------------> ground for compressor clutch

This way as long as you have enough pressure the low press switch will pass the ground through
Then as long as you do not have too much pressure the high press switch will pass the ground through

Now the DASh can turn the ac compressor on and off via pin 6 the grey with white
Thank you J..Sorry for being a pain in the ace.. gotcha loud and clear

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2020 09:47 pm

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I don't see it as PITA!! Building trucks is cool as s*&t V8 rangers should all run and drive down the road, if I can help with that well then.......good vibes flow........

Check my wiring also make sure that DG with W is the oil press switch, on some explorers there is a air suspension wire there too and I get them mixed up.

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2020 08:15 am

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For those that will dig into their motors buying cams ,heads, ect...

I have a little pushrod info for you. The "professionals" say you add .050 to the total length when measuring with a solid or pumped lifter, and some said you dont. Well, I am not a professional engine builder, I'm just a flooring installer.

So if the lifter compresses .030-.060 right? If your witness mark left in the center of the valve is where it needs to be when you measured with the adjustable pushrod , using a solid or FULLY pumped lifter , then you take away the .030-.060 for the lifter..guess what, your pushrods are short.
THEN you have consider piston to valve clearence to consider also. They say you want MINIMUM of .120 on a 302. So make sure when you check piston to valve clearance be aware of that. I'm at .100. Little tight, but it will work as long as I don't over rev it to 6500 or higher

HOWEVER.. what "I" did was add .050 to the overall length. On my application, milled heads and thinner headgasket, if anything You would think I would need a shorter pushrod then the average? I've only seen a handful of people use a 6.80 pushrod with trick flow heads. But it is what it is, thats why you need to measure if you change cams and heads!!

(((JUST MAKE SURE THE LIFTER PLUNGER DOES NOT COMPRESS ANY!!)))

I thought mine wasn't when actually it was!! So I just grabbed another old one and used it 3-4 times then it started compressing too.

OH ONE OTHER THING.....my brother brought over one of his comp cams roller lifters for his blown foxbody he is building, it is taller than the stock explorer lifters! So again, use what lifter you will be running when measuring. I personally am running stock explorer roller lifters, I see no reason not to. Actually decent pieces!

Last edited on Wed Sep 9th, 2020 08:16 am by Junglejoe

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2020 04:55 pm

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Pushrods came in finally!!

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Last edited on Wed Sep 9th, 2020 04:55 pm by Junglejoe

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2020 07:27 pm

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UPDATE ON OIL PRESSURE WIRE*
So 99 Mercury mountaineer harness..into a 2000 3.0 ranger..

In my swap..I dont have to move that wire..its already qhere it needs to be. Thats what was confusing me when J said that wire has to be moved. I looked on the ranger side, thwn on thw 99 Mercury harness side ..both pin 26's had that wire there..

So to be sure..I just took the Mountainneer harness apart..well, I took the tape and conduit off and traced it.. all the way from the connecter that plugs into the oil pressure sensor on the 302, all the way back to the 42 pin connector..
its already done.

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2020 09:36 pm

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yeah buddy!
Cutting the tape will always tell the tale!
One down 647,322 to go........................ just kidding!

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2020 10:01 pm

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Lmao.. I suppose these suckers are different..depends on who put it together..ðŸ¤£ðŸ¤£

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