Mike69
Mustang Nut
Joined: Sun Oct 22nd, 2017
Posts: 1587
Name: Mike Occupation: Merchandising Interests: Vintage Mustangs, RBV's, car shows, & woodworking
Reputation Points: 2857
|
If you live in an area of the country where you get snow & your state either uses the brine solution or salt on the roads this "how to" may be of use to you.
In this "how to" I am going to explain & show what I did to replace the p/s cooler which is mounted with 2 nuts to the top of the bolts that mount the steering rack to the trucks frame.
All 3 of the Rangers I have had were 4WD & had the Off Road Package & all 3 had the p/s cooler, I do not know if they were only on the 4WD's or only on models that have the towing package.
The only tools I needed were,
standard pliers, 18mm combination box/open end wrench, 1/4" nut driver, & wire cutters.
Imperial p/s cooler pt#-241009 purchased from Advance Auto Parts, & 1 medium sized zip tie I had in the garage.
1) I started by using the 18mm box end of the wrench to remove the 2 retainer nuts so you could pivot the cooler to better get at the spring clamps on the hoses,
2) using the standard pliers I removed the 2 spring clamps from both p/s hoses,
3) removed the old leaking p/s cooler & used a couple old bolts to plug the lines.
The aftermarket p/s cooler I used is almost the exact same size as the factory one I removed except the inlet & outlet tubes are a little shorter. Here is a picture of the old one on the bottom & the new one on top to show the difference is length.
4) Next I used some sheet steel stock to fab up a new mounting bracket since the old brackets are part of the factory p/s cooler.
5) Install the new p/s cooler into the p/s hoses & lightly tighten the clamps so you can still pivot the cooler.
6) Install the new p/s cooler bracket & use the 18mm wrench to tighten down the mounting nuts.
7) Pivot the new p/s cooler to match the mounting bracket & install zip tie through the 2 small drilled holes in the mounting bracket & through the curved end of the cooler opposite the inlet & outlet openings & pull the zip tie tight.
8) Tighten down both hose clamps, fill fluid, start engine, & check for leaks.
Note; depending on how long or how bad the leaks was will determine how much of a mess in under your truck. The steering rack & the frame section under the steering rack were fairly coated with p/s fluid, so I used some brake clean in a disposable spray bottle (or you can buy it in an aerosol can) & clean off the p/s fluid.
9) After cleaning off old p/s fluid run engine again & check again for leaks, or take for a test drive, then recheck for any leaks. Here is a picture of the new p/s cooler mounted, before cleaning off the old fluid.
____________________
21 Bronco Sport Big Bend (Wife's DD)
05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto
99 Explorer Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, Auto
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd(Project & my future toy)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)
|
