Joined: Sat Oct 21st, 2017
Interests: Life, Experiences, and adventures.
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Hey there folks. Got bored in the fall and decided to change my valve cover gaskets. Easy enough process, right? Since I needed to remove all of the "stuff" to get to the valve covers I figured I would change the thermostat and the water pump for giggles, just because it was there. I put everything back together and fired it up. I crossed two wires and shut it back down. I developed a miss after that and then ordered a new coil pack, wire, and plugs (all Motorcraft). Ran great, for a while. Was traveling with the wife to the movies one night when the truck seemed to turn off at 45 mph. No notice, no engine lights, no noise, nothing. Whipped off to the side of the road and as I slowed down the truck just fired right back up as if nothing had happened. It did it a second time that night and I got her home and parked it (it isn't my DD and winter was coming). I did drive it to work one more time after this happened. On the way home it bogged down, wouldn't idle, and could barely get it to move under power. If I shut it down, it would fire back up and run, not great, but I got it home and parked it for the winter. It is decent enough to drive around now, but it is definitely not driving well at all.
Here are the KOEO codes that I got tonight: 159, 159, 114, 157
My KOER codes that I got tonight are: 412, 116, 159, 312, 116, 159
Here is where I can use a little help. I found a site called "easyautodiagnostics" and checked out the MAF, and the TPS and they seem to be working properly (according to following the directions on how to check them). I have 34# of fuel pressure at KOEO (i did not see anything leak down while it was hooked up) but I did not check at KOER. Also, I haven't double checked to make sure that I am firing on all cylinders (hopefully when I have a second person around). When it does fire up it runs very poorly; I have black crap shooting out my exhaust. I am able to put parts into my truck if needed so that isn't an issue, but still, if the part is good why replace it? If i am missing other diagnostic areas, I am open for the help. A little guidance to check other things out would be awesome. Thanks in advance for the help!
So just for reference I'm adding these in here for others to see:
159 - MAF fault, above or below normal
114 - Air Charge Temp higher or lower voltage than expected
157 - MAF sensor low voltage
412 - Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check
116 - Engine Coolant temp higher or lower than expected
312 - Thermacter Air system/fault during engine run self test
I'd start with your TAB and/or TAD solenoid(s). The thermactor bypass and diverter valves are actuated by small solenoids called TAB (thermactor-air-bypass) and TAD (thermactor-air-diverter) valves. The computer tells the solenoids to open/close, and the solenoids in turn direct vacuum to the the actual diverter and bypass valves.
Those or one of those acting up would cause a vacuum issue throwing of MAF, Air charge temp following that and give you a rich indication. Thats the black smoke coming out, unspent fuel [White is coolant, blue is oil, black is fuel].. you're seeing a "rich" condition because the truck thinks its best to run rich as a self preservation 'limp mode'. and that would understandably explain the rough idle.
The best way to troubleshoot this stuff is to use one of those hand-held vacuum pumps -- I think it is called a "Mitey-vac". put a vac gauge on it and then attach it to the various components under the hood and pump them up one at a time. If the vacuum holds, moved on. It's time-consuming, but I can't think of any other way to pinpoint the problem..
Also, I think the FPR on the V6 is supposed to be at 40-42lbs (?) can't recall at the moment but if you pull the vacuum line off it should increase pressure and engine idle too. if it doesn't then it may be bad equally.
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