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Front brake upgrades with 4x4       #: 700
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 01:17 pm
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4.0power
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I’ve been reading around the ranger station, found a post where someone took 2003 ranger front  brake Parts off and swap it onto thier ranger. Could that work for my 2002 4x4 ranger? Since 2003+ uses 12” rotors and 2002 and down uses 11.25” rotors. I tow a lot and plan on adding a lot of hp to the truck so I want to max out the brake department.



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2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 01:31 pm
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I can't answer your question as posted, but have you thought about simply upgrading the current set-up? I changed my rotors to EBC slotted disks and added EBC compound pads for a nice increase in braking power. It was simple, and relatively inexpensive.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 01:53 pm
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I have thought about ebc stuff, would love to try it but wanted to see if the bigger rotors would be better than just upgrading the current set up. Currently I’m running power stop rotors in the front.



____________________
2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 03:31 pm
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4.0power wrote:
I’ve been reading around the ranger station, found a post where someone took 2003 ranger front  brake Parts off and swap it onto thier ranger. Could that work for my 2002 4x4 ranger? Since 2003+ uses 12” rotors and 2002 and down uses 11.25” rotors. I tow a lot and plan on adding a lot of hp to the truck so I want to max out the brake department.
Yes, it is possible to bolt on the later 4x4 rotors, calipers and pads. To do this would also require changing to the later steering knuckles which have revised caliper mount hole positions to accommodate the larger rotors.

Ford's change from 11.28" to 12" 4x4 Ranger brakes actually happened in mid model year 2003. So, early 2003MY 4x4 Rangers had the same parts as your 2002. Most auto parts store lists fail to mention this important piece of information. IMO, it would be safer to order 2004 parts to avoid the potential confusion caused by early/late 2003 differences.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 04:39 pm
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V8 Level II wrote:
4.0power wrote:

I’ve been reading around the ranger station, found a post where someone took 2003 ranger front  brake Parts off and swap it onto thier ranger. Could that work for my 2002 4x4 ranger? Since 2003+ uses 12” rotors and 2002 and down uses 11.25” rotors. I tow a lot and plan on adding a lot of hp to the truck so I want to max out the brake department.
Yes, it is possible to bolt on the later 4x4 rotors, calipers and pads. To do this would also require changing to the later steering knuckles which have revised caliper mount hole positions to accommodate the larger rotors.

Ford's change from 11.28" to 12" 4x4 Ranger brakes actually happened in mid model year 2003. So, early 2003MY 4x4 Rangers had the same parts as your 2002. Most auto parts store lists fail to mention this important piece of information. IMO, it would be safer to order 2004 parts to avoid the potential confusion caused by early/late 2003 differences.

So I would need rotors, pads, calipers, and the knuckles, that all? Will my wheel bearings fit the newer knocked? local JY got a 2004 ranger. Might have to stop by and see what parts are left.



____________________
2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Tue Mar 13th, 2018 07:38 pm
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4.0power wrote:
V8 Level II wrote:

4.0power wrote:


I’ve been reading around the ranger station, found a post where someone took 2003 ranger front  brake Parts off and swap it onto thier ranger. Could that work for my 2002 4x4 ranger? Since 2003+ uses 12” rotors and 2002 and down uses 11.25” rotors. I tow a lot and plan on adding a lot of hp to the truck so I want to max out the brake department.
Yes, it is possible to bolt on the later 4x4 rotors, calipers and pads. To do this would also require changing to the later steering knuckles which have revised caliper mount hole positions to accommodate the larger rotors.

Ford's change from 11.28" to 12" 4x4 Ranger brakes actually happened in mid model year 2003. So, early 2003MY 4x4 Rangers had the same parts as your 2002. Most auto parts store lists fail to mention this important piece of information. IMO, it would be safer to order 2004 parts to avoid the potential confusion caused by early/late 2003 differences.

So I would need rotors, pads, calipers, and the knuckles, that all? Will my wheel bearings fit the newer knocked? local JY got a 2004 ranger. Might have to stop by and see what parts are left.

Bearings may fit but with the knuckles being different... ??, May be best to cross reference the parts at a local parts or use part numbers on Rockauto maybe.

I don't think you're going to see much improvement in .75" larger rotor UNLESS you're running a larger wheel and tire combo and even then I'd be curious as to its measurement of difference. IF you were say stuck in a 93-94 yr and wanted to get away from the single piston floating caliper to a dual piston.. I couldn't really argue for a more positive braking feel from more brake surface touching the rotor in general.

But Stock pads are gonna be the same size, not larger, you're just grabbing the rotor in a different way to slow down larger mass at the four corners if you will. You could ideally get the same result using a EBC or Hawk pad even on the stock 11.25" rotors. The slotted rotors due help with some cooling but best by removing brake fade the most, that's what they were designed to do. Cross drilled rotors I don't recommend for our applications so much because of several reasons. One, they're meant for limited use, heavy use and then you toss them in favor for new ones. The chamferred holes are nearly impossible to turn at most shops and when you do find a shop that will do it its ridiculous cost compared to the typical $5-10 turning. They're popular most due to marketing and "cool factors" and not the ones they're advertising. IF you off road in sandy or muddy environments they pick up and hold rocks and debris and cause other issues too.

Your better option on top of pads would be to increase pedal pressure by opting for a SS brake line to replace the soft rubber lines. If you've ever watched videos on brake lines when you panic stop or even hard stop in some cases you'll quickly understand why brake lines rupture or burst under such conditions. Those soft lines expand, where the SS lines are held under a constrictive manner and keep pressure moving down or through the line without swelling, and thats where the positive braking is really felt.

hope some of that info helps



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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 12:00 pm
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Wow, thanks for the info! I’ve been thinking, would I see the best braking response if I were to swap to the bigger rotors AND use SS line? Seems like that would be like the winning combo.



____________________
2002 xlt 4.0 5r55e 4x4 4.10’s rear disc brake swap from sn95 **currently swapping in a 5.0***
2003 2.3 2wd 5 speed single cab dropped 9 inches looks like crap rides like crap but for some reason it’s cool to me
2004 gmc 2500hd 6.6 diesel LLY
1989 foxbody 347 stroker t5 trans
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 Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2018 02:50 pm
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I did not know that the pads were the same size.  In that case, swapping to those rotors will literally give you zero improvement.  The swept area will be the same.  

My personal experience with SS lines is that gains are very small, almost to the point where they may be placebo.  And if you do gain, it is at the extreme edge of use, only when pedal pressure is very high.  Under normal use the stock hose resists expansion enough that the pressure goes against the pistons like indented.  Just my experience.

I think your best chance of improvement is with a better compound on the pad.  The rest is subject to diminishing returns.

Last edited on Thu Mar 15th, 2018 09:59 pm by Ordinary Biker

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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 07:59 am
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4.0power wrote:
Wow, thanks for the info! I’ve been thinking, would I see the best braking response if I were to swap to the bigger rotors AND use SS line? Seems like that would be like the winning combo.
The only way you would gain any advantage here is rolling either 17"+ wheels and or 35" tires, or a combo thereof. Not that its a whole lot due to only 0.75" larger rotor, the area in which the brake grabs is what DOES make slowing down larger mass in tire or wheel or even combo. Think of it in the sense of rotating mass. Generally anytime you can minimize rotating mass, or you are lightening up the 4 corners, the vehicle will Accelerate, brake, and handle better. The use of a larger rotors CAN help in other ways. Obviously more surface area makes it easier to cool down quicker as well take longer to build up heat soak eventually letting into brake fade - However you're not likely driving your truck 3 digit speeds to warrant that attribute.

Also.. Comparing just front pads part numbers on Rockauto, I found that in anything marked as heavy duty or performance related the length of both pads remains the same at 154mm whereas 2004 DOES jump from 153.4mm to 156.1mm and both pads also remain at 16.5mm thickness. However anything Motorcraft premium pads were the same part numbers between the 2002 Ford Ranger and then the 2004 Ranger. So take that for what its worth.

Larger driving rotating mass and only 2.7mm increase in pad width thats possibly due to design than stopping power. it just doesnt make sense doing all the work.

I recently liberated a set of 95-97 Ranger knuckles for the very similar purpose as what you're thinking, using the Sport track Rotors from 2004. All the bearings should be the same in 2WD but I am unclear on the 4WD. I'd have to thumb through a half dozen or so .PDF files I have on the subject. MY biggest interest was mostly the larger amount of surface area utilizing the dual pistons over the single larger one, not to mention rid myself of that horrible ass floating piston BS where once every 4-7 months I seem to   out a rubber pin from the drivers side caliper somehow. At least the dual piston calipers BOLT ON to the knuckle.

As for the SS lines.. "placebo" effect is a bit staunch unless your a light brake user to begin with dragging those brake pads 600 ft before any real threat of a stop is needed. If thats the case, I'd be more concerned with glazed brakes more so. Moderate driving in random traffic is a confidence booster. Track use, a def difference especially heel & toe'ing on an autocross course.

 Im on the fence with what my plans are due to the fact I am doing a frame up changeover.. using a Dana 35 with 44 Stubby knuckles. and I am looking into what will or wont work with that brake wise.



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"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 12:05 pm
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Never glazed a set of brakes ever. Done my fair share of race driving, road race in an old beater Mustang and track racing on 2 wheels. Ran both.

But I bow to your obviously superior knowledge.

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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 12:46 pm
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
Never glazed a set of brakes ever.  Done my fair share of race driving, road race in an old beater Mustang and track racing on 2 wheels.  Ran both.

But I bow to your obviously superior knowledge.

I'm extremely sorry for spewing my scrambled eggs over my keyboard.



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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 01:54 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Ordinary Biker wrote:

Never glazed a set of brakes ever.  Done my fair share of race driving, road race in an old beater Mustang and track racing on 2 wheels.  Ran both.

But I bow to your obviously superior knowledge.

I'm extremely sorry for spewing my scrambled eggs over my keyboard.

At least it wasn't coffee.  Eggs can be cleaned easier!

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 Posted: Sun Mar 18th, 2018 11:06 pm
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Ordinary Biker wrote:
Never glazed a set of brakes ever.  Done my fair share of race driving, road race in an old beater Mustang and track racing on 2 wheels.  Ran both.

But I bow to your obviously superior knowledge.

Your sarcasm is well noted, even appreciated. I giggled - some



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
.
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