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Baffles
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 Posted: Tue Jun 25th, 2019 05:02 pm
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JAMMAN

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Has anyone here put speaker baffles behind the speakers in the back of a short cab, and if so did it help?



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Thu Jun 27th, 2019 02:19 am
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Undrstm8ed
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Baffles will certainly always help.. By sealing off the cavity itself you will create an air pocket that now becomes a controlled environment for the speaker which will do a better job of keeping the back waves of a speaker from finding the front waves.

Ideally the use of a baffle, and a foam ring around the outside of the surround that closes the gap between the speaker and the panel it is mounted to will help increase Midbass, will make the midrange frequencies seem cleaner or clearer however you quantify the sound quality of it. Keep in mind the initial quality of speakers can apply but then I've seen some really lower quality products coupled with every detail of performance based make things far better; Better and thicker grades of copper wire, your baffles, better quality capacitors & coils for X-overs, better grade of interconnect cables etc..

Typically if you are really trying to get everything you can from the system, all the small things and details that help when done correctly. When dealing with low power anything; audio system, vehicles, whatever. When you take something as simple as for example. A fresh set of plugs on a dyno pull. You may find a 1/2 to 1.7hp gain on something like a correctly modded engine. Is the ass dyno going to feel it? Not really. But couple that with a 2hp gain here, a 5hp gain there, another 2.2hp gain with a tweak there, and just for good measures lets throw some untuned ITB's on the intake manifold and gain another 14hp.

Not any one of those mods will make a significant difference (well maybe the ITB's slightly, especially after a tune), however the adding of them all makes a larger difference of course.

Adding baffles alone would be some ITB's for those speakers and would recommend both the rear if you have them but I would focus on the doors more. Sadly the rear speakers are set really low in the ranger Std Cabs and really the only thing they do is provide rear fill properly. They shouldn't at any point seem louder than the front. My analogy being whens the last time you went to a concert and turned your back to the stage to listen to it? Exactly, stage presence is sound staging and imaging is placement of instruments and artist singing in relevance to where those things are on the stage. Granted, very few take their audio THAT serious unless in a competitive scene of things but then there are some of us who enjoy a flat curve and the likes of above because IASCA is evil in theory. lol


I figured after 20 views you may not have very many audio snobs or experienced real installers in this venue to answer.. [ass-umption]. Hope that helps.

.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 27th, 2019 07:29 am
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Chris

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Total waste of time IMHO - the sound quality in a metal / hard plastic / glass cab is going to be pretty rubbish anyway.

Probably get better sound plugging a set of earphones in :whatever:



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 Posted: Thu Jun 27th, 2019 09:43 pm
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Chris wrote:
Total waste of time IMHO - the sound quality in a metal / hard plastic / glass cab is going to be pretty rubbish anyway.

Probably get better sound plugging a set of earphones in :whatever:

Add in the lack of sound deadening in the door panels roof, firewall etc...



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 Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 05:15 am
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Chris wrote:
Total waste of time IMHO - the sound quality in a metal / hard plastic / glass cab is going to be pretty rubbish anyway.

Probably get better sound plugging a set of earphones in :whatever:


Most places here in the states will hassle or ticket you for wearing earphones if not making it difficult to hear or listen for emergency vehicles and or other traffic related incidents. Not to mention just as bad if not worse in some cases being responsible for hearing losses.

And for what its worth, You'd find yourself being right back into the argument based upon the immense amount of "shit" products making anything decent for under $200 that sounds of real quality just for the sake of being stubborn...


Tsquare wrote:
Chris wrote:

Total waste of time IMHO - the sound quality in a metal / hard plastic / glass cab is going to be pretty rubbish anyway.

Probably get better sound plugging a set of earphones in :whatever:

Add in the lack of sound deadening in the door panels roof, firewall etc...


As someone whose stripped a few track cars down to daily grind them, whats being described here is FARRRRRrrrrrr from the reality of a stripped out tin can effect that would make even an angelic fly fart sound tin or hollow like.. As does just a dashboard, driver seat, and two door panels with everything else from headliner to factory sound deadening removed for weight reduction purposes.


Just spend the $9 XTC 5"x7" Speaker Baffles which we've all wasted before on a meal we didn't like just to say we tried it, instead we throw ad hominems for ideas that have been proven to work and when coupled with other REALISTIC measures of improving sound quality IF that's what you are looking to do. The little bit the baffles will do may be enough to give you what you want as its obvious it was enough of a concern to your liking to bring it to light as a discussion. I don't believe you're looking to do a lot of mods or upgrades in order to just get better sound which then would lead to removing the add-ins T-Square mentions. They're just hurdles based upon a matter of importance to you or anyone else but not without fixing or modifying.

Meaning if it really was something you wanted to be anal retentive about, A.K.A. "Sound Quality" - then like any industry hobby you will likely follow the necessary courses of action to attain what you really desire from the audio system.

so.. in my best voice impression from the Joker - just DO IT Jim !


For those that don't like to read and would rather watch a video...
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=door+speaker+baffles&sp=eAE%253D

Last edited on Fri Jun 28th, 2019 05:25 am by Undrstm8ed



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 10:43 am
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JAMMAN

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I can read I just don't like talking on the phone.

Those are pretty much the exact ones I had in mind, they are cheaper on e-bay. I built some enclosures when I was a youngin and never remember using stamped metal and molded plastic. I even discovered on my own that particle board actually sounds better than plywood. Now we have MDF lol.

It is like a 5 minute job anyway, if they will fit. Worst case I can take them out in 3 minutes and use them in the garage to catch bolts.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 02:23 pm
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This posting is not from an Audiophile but from a "What I have found over the years" thing.

I have found in the past, that sound deadening of the Cab is the first step to a better sounding Sound System, large cab or small, i.e. Roof, Floor, Back of Cab, Firewall, AND most importantly... THE DOORS !

The adding of the Speaker Baffles, which I knew nothing about, not only helped with the sound, not sure of the Frequency Ranges, but it sounded better, but the baffles also helped with keping the Speakers cleaner; along with adding speaker cloth in front of them too.

My last install was a long time back and things change but the dynamics of wire is still pretty much the same, so larger copper wire means less resistance and that means the easier the system can move those electrons the better it will sound.

BUTT... back to the speaker baffles, to me as a generalist and gadgetman, the Baffles made my system sound better in Std, 2-dr, Cab, AND helped keep the speaker cleaner and responding better.

Ltr



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Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 09:14 pm
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The sound deadening does work. I am sure the baffle helps. 

Matching the impedance of the speakers to the output of the radio also helps  but using the proper sized wire does make a difference. Typically the lower the Ω (ohm) of the speakers the better the sound quality, but the numbers need to match the output of the amp, and to use the lowest resistance, lowest inductance, and lowest capacitance wire. The wire's thickness, length, and the material it is made of will determine which wire will work best. Too large gauge or length will increases capacitance (if I remember correctly).  That being said, pure copper  wire at 18 gauge at 8 ft or less will handle 2 Ω (ohm) to 20 Ω (ohm) speakers and your ear would probably not be able to tell the difference as long as the impedance of the speaker is matched to the amp.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 03:59 am
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Undrstm8ed
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I'm glad to see so many missed me and my controversy... Someone needs to stir the shit on this site, it gets stagnant quick.



JAMMAN wrote:
I can read I just don't like talking on the phone.

Those are pretty much the exact ones I had in mind, they are cheaper on e-bay. I built some enclosures when I was a youngin and never remember using stamped metal and molded plastic. I even discovered on my own that particle board actually sounds better than plywood. Now we have MDF lol.

It is like a 5 minute job anyway, if they will fit. Worst case I can take them out in 3 minutes and use them in the garage to catch bolts.


Well I don't know how much cheaper could be on Ebay from $9 but.. I would assume quality of materials would be the reasoning if any, I mean how much Q/C could there be in a foam baffle? Personally, I'm not a fan of crutchfield, a couple decades ago they were a decent company to me in that time, but I'd buy from them before Ebay just because I'm Anti-Ebay. I think in the 20 years or so Ebay has been around I've bought two things. I'd rather support local shops and jobs. After growing up in the Automotive industry and Detroit most of my life, I have a soft spot for American Jobs and Workers coming first vs the amount of Chinese crap floating across the pond.


Tsquare wrote:
The sound deadening does work. I am sure the baffle helps. 

Matching the impedance of the speakers to the output of the radio also helps  but using the proper sized wire does make a difference. Typically the lower the Ω (ohm) of the speakers the better the sound quality, but the numbers need to match the output of the amp, and to use the lowest resistance, lowest inductance, and lowest capacitance wire. The wire's thickness, length, and the material it is made of will determine which wire will work best. Too large gauge or length will increases capacitance (if I remember correctly).  That being said, pure copper  wire at 18 gauge at 8 ft or less will handle 2 Ω (ohm) to 20 Ω (ohm) speakers and your ear would probably not be able to tell the difference as long as the impedance of the speaker is matched to the amp.


A lot of things can come into play here. Keep in mind home audio is centered around 8Ω and car audio is centered around 4Ω. Dampening factors, impedance, power supply, power, efficiency, and then things related to tube or solid state. Take for example, old school Punch 45 from Rockford Fosgate. 22.5w x 2 @ 4Ω however, using the amplifier in a mixed mono/stereo wiring configuration, spending $8 at Radioshack.. you could pull about 225w from that amplifier killing it in the 50w under class. Two Punch 45's is 450w and still in the 100w under class just mopping up competitive sound offs or the enthusiast. Another oldie.. And not much has changed if not in some cases better but the Orion H.C.C.A. 25, 50, & 100. All of which can run down to a 1/4Ω.

Personally I like to stay 500-450w total system power.. and you can do a ton with that. When it comes to wiring or interconnects, I spend the 2nd largest amount of money from speakers in which I've had $169 components, $399 components, and $1399 pairs..  just for front speakers. Not for everyone and sometimes like wine, Ive found a $600 pair of speakers sound better to me than $1500 set and vice versa.



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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