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5.0 in a 2000 coil spring project       #: 156
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sat Dec 30th, 2017 06:42 pm
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mhoward
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Yep! That is what makes it a nightmare sometimes getting the correct parts for your truck.



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2003 Ranger Edge / Extended Cab / Flareside / 3.0L FLEX / Auto / 2WD / 8.8 LS 4:10 / Sonic Blue Pearl

So many mods... so little time...



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 Posted: Wed Apr 4th, 2018 06:04 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Hmmmm I would have put money on it but I never in fact did see the title.

Why would someone try to sell a car that they don't know the year of.

So it was probably a 02, his door tag said december of 01 so he thought it was an 01.

I did buy a 2017 CRV in December of 2016.

Jim, the American auto manufactures stop producing vehicles for a specific year lets say 01 in July/August of that year & start the next years production so you could get an 02 in later 01. My 69 Mustang was built 11/68. The best thing to do is look on the door sticker it has the month & year of when the vehicle was built.
MaDMaXX wrote:
The whole model year stuff in American really weirds me out, it's not something i recall ever being a thing in the UK.

It's either the year it was built in, or it's not, i don't remember ever having next years model being available this year....

MaXX, see what I typed above.



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00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto(My DD)
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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 01:54 pm
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410customs

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okay okay I just ow see this thread, whew
I have not read whole thing but I will this afternoon.

This stuff is not that complex
If you need help sorting this out let me know
I can update a 96 trans to be a 01 trans, you can either change the wires at the trans plug around a bit or you can change the internal harness and plug. The big difference in 96-97 three power wires go inside the trans then to the solenoids, in 98+ one power wire goes in then splits....

a 96-97 computer can control a returnless style fuel pump and vise versa.
I like returnless because there is alot less hot fuel in the system and the later model 4 hole injectors are nice!
Buying new injectors is okay as long as you get OEM, refurbished from Ebay is good, or you can just bench clean and test the factory injectors you have (BEST CHOICE)

On a ranger all you have to do is lift the bed to get access to fuel pump and sender

Also the upper and lower intakes with the internal and external EGR we can sort that out too
If you need any 5.0 parts LET ME KNOW I have intakes, pcm's, wiring harness, fuel rails, trans cores, all sorts of crap
Been there done that!!!

Last edited on Mon May 7th, 2018 02:01 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 01:59 pm
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410customs

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there was a big switch in 98 with the DTRS it went from analog to digital along with the instrument clusters...however you can mix and match if you know what parts you need.
I can make a 96 PCM run a 01 drivetrain or a 01 PCM run a 96 drivetrain or we can mix and match bits and pieces together to make it all work
I know just about every mid year change they made on these trucks as I have dismantled about 60+ 5.0 explorers and built up 20+ complete v8 conversions

Wiring is my specialty, most wires I have memorized

Last edited on Mon May 7th, 2018 02:02 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 02:20 pm
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Thanks, I have a 97 motor and PCM out of a mountaineer, a 96 2wd 4r70w all wires match the 97, I'm going to run the return and take the regulator off the pump, the BIGGEST problem was motor mounts and adapter plates and all the mis information I got other places. Motor is in now.

I ended up with a stamped steel oil pan, went through 2 timing chains till I found one that was tight enough, too much to list. I posted it at another place but figured I'd resume this summer with a fresh attitude.



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 02:23 pm
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410customs

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holy cow wish I was there!
Now you have my number
Ive always wanted to do the coil spring 2wd ranger
IN no way am I claiming to know everything but I have been through the wringer on these 5.0 conversions in the last 15 years

Last edited on Mon May 7th, 2018 03:41 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 09:11 pm
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After I get done with the front end on my DD I'll copy the whole thread over here since someone is interested.

Funny thing on the timing chain... this was an expensive double roller timing chain with needle bearing thrust plate behind the gear.





AND LATER this is a less expensive but a cloys:



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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 01:42 pm
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410customs

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Motorcraft for the win! on my 96 I used Ford timing set and E303 cam...everything went together like stock
On these GT40's the water pump is high volume, the oil pump is high volume, the timing chain is double roller, its a full roller motor aside from the stamped rockers....these things I usually don't mess with just use OEM

Last edited on Tue May 8th, 2018 01:43 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 12:37 am
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Aluminum or steel driveshaft? I can use either which one is better for V8?

Ordered my yoke from e-bay if it fits I'll dive in to this project again.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 12:33 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Aluminum or steel driveshaft? I can use either which one is better for V8?

Ordered my yoke from e-bay if it fits I'll dive in to this project again.

IMHO you can use either, the only difference is the aluminium is lighter so less weight. I am using a aluminum driveshaft in my Mustang with the 5.0 because I needed one anyway & could get a used one for 1/2 the price of a new one.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:06 pm
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If you were racing I'd go with aluminum for the weight savings and the aluminum drive shaft is stronger but for pretty a dd project a steel drive shaft is the best way to go. They are cheaper to have built and easier to find a place to make one. That's my 2 cents worth. When you get this done I'm going to come up to Grove City and drive it



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:10 pm
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You still want that 7.5 rear end or no need now since you sold your project?

Burnouts in the CDS parking lot! Sounds like fun, dreaded sleddish :)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:17 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
You still want that 7.5 rear end or no need now since you sold your project?

Burnouts in the CDS parking lot! Sounds like fun, dreaded sleddish  :)

Yea I still want it. I found another ranger that's more of what I was wanting when I bought that 92. I found a 95 splash 4 houses up the street from where I live. Just drop me a text of what weekend you want to swap them out and I'll be up

Last edited on Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:18 pm by black06xlt



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1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
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2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:18 pm
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410customs

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95 is an odd year for the ranger some of them are OBDI and some are OBDII



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 Posted: Sat Jun 9th, 2018 02:23 pm
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410customs wrote:
95 is an odd year for the ranger some of them are OBDI and some are OBDII
Cant be no worse then 2006. The wiring is way different. Really makes mods like auto dim mirror and ohc a real bitch to hook up



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
2000 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 5 speed
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 Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2018 11:12 am
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OK I noticed in some of 410's 5.0 conversion pics the mushroom on the 5.0 looks slightly lower and tiltrd back a little.

Is this normal because it is exactly how mine looks and I can only put .375 more spacer under the trans before it starts whacking the tunnel. I was worried about it but if that's how it looks naturally I won't bother trying to correct it.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 10th, 2018 02:31 pm
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410customs

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yes tilted back a little is fine
In fact I can re locate the whole damn drive train to the passenger side 1/2" and nobody would notice. Gives more clearance for a big t case
The only thing that cares about the angle of the drivetrain is the front and rear driveshaft pinion angles. Keep the changes mild and you will be fine. I see alot of people making sure the drivetrain is set exactly perfect in their truck and that is nice, I am pretty anal myself...but when you have to pry things over 1/2" for clearance or shim up an engine mount to get some clearance, don't be afraid it works out just fine.....

Keep in mind a few of my conversions pictured are ttb trucks, they use custom motor mounts (modified L&L) and custom trans mounts so I am responsible for placing the engine and trans angle.

On my 1988 remember there is a body drop AND I have a 5/8" intake spacer between the upper and lower plenums, still fits even with AC style AC box (notched for header clearance)
I have all emissions equipment truck believes 100% it is a 97 Mounty and was emission-ed in CO since 2005
I have probably 3/8" from intake to firewall in spots, I have 1/4" from oil filter puck to steering gear box

Ill post up some pictures of the stock explorer 5.0 in a ranger (stock explorer engine and trans mounts) and then the modified setups (custom mounts)

Cant be no worse then 2006. The wiring is way different. Really makes mods like auto dim mirror and ohc a real bitch to hook up
TELL ME ABOUT IT! We are taking apart a 2007 Ranger right now in the shop for recycling (crushy) and the SOHC drivetrain, whole truck wiring and plumbing is WAY different!! Its cool, the best way to learn these is to take them apart. My stepson and I crushed 19+ 5.0L Explorers in ONE SUMMER

Last edited on Sun Jun 10th, 2018 02:38 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 07:49 am
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I have yet to have a 5.0 merc or expo come through my bay for dismantling yet. But I'm waiting for one



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
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2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 02:48 pm
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They are getting snatched up by Early Bronco guys alot these days, 5.0 with lower miles harder and harder to get. With high miles....hahahaha few hundred bux can get one if you plan to rebuild the block and trans



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 03:09 pm
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Lower miles they want money for because they think they are selling a vehicle and not a donor.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 03:11 pm
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Hey look what came in today! 



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2018 06:05 pm
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Bout time



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2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
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 Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2018 02:14 pm
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OK in another thread I had decided to run a return line for the fuel to a fitting in the filler neck to avoid several other things.

How big does it have to be.

I have an large supply of 1/4 stainless with a .120" hole in it we use for injector line and we have several benders. Is .12 enough to get the dumped fuel back to the tank or should I buy something bigger. Seems a little small to me but what has been used in the past.

Thanks-



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 Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2018 05:00 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
OK in another thread I had decided to run a return line for the fuel to a fitting in the filler neck to avoid several other things.

How big does it have to be.

I have an large supply of 1/4 stainless with a .120" hole in it we use for injector line and we have several benders. Is .12 enough to get the dumped fuel back to the tank or should I buy something bigger. Seems a little small to me but what has been used in the past.

Thanks-

Yeah, sounds too small on the ID.

I just checked a random set of SS lines in the garage. These are not from a RBV but I'm sure from some Ford gasoline application. Both supply and return are around 5/16" (8mm) OD and I'm guessing the wall is a lot thinner than what you're describing. So a lot more internal cross section in the factory return compared to yours.



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2003 FX4 Level II, Supercharged 5.0L V8, Headers, Duals, BW4406 manual T/C
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 Posted: Tue Jun 12th, 2018 06:10 pm
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Got it, TY.



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