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AC Delete Box       #: 106
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 03:12 pm
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loomdog32
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Ive been to all the local JYs and none have any Rangers with Factory AC Delete.... Ebay also seems to be dry as well... 
Was these every offered aftermarket for the Ranger? Ive found a source for GM F-Body (Camaro and Firebird) 3rd Gen (82-92) aftermarket. Will those work?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 05:52 pm
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CBB9M
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I paid $806 in 1994 for A/C in my new Ranger, and that's 1994 dollars. With this in mind and as it's worked out up here, sooner or latter a stripper will land in a JY near you and there will be the the case.

Last edited on Mon Oct 30th, 2017 05:52 pm by CBB9M



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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 10:50 pm
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loomdog32
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When I started the top end work, I looked into fixing the AC. But it was at a point of a total replacement..

Cheapest for the equipment I could find was $1k. Then there was the install of all of it and it would still need to be converted to 134a.

dispite the 110+ summers here, having a small footprint with 3 windows (driver, pass, rear), get enough air flow. Now heater... Yes. I need a heater!!



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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 03:04 am
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CBB9M
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I have what may be a surprise for you.......you could do noting more than just charge the existing R12 system with R134 and it'll work fine. To discourage leakage on the compressor shaft seal, remove at least a few ounces of the mineral oil, or for that matter as much as you can drain, and replace with the exact same amount, then charge with 134. If you really wanna get fancy you could swap orifice tubes. Just be aware that the volume requirements of R12 and R134 will not be identical but if you're charging by pressure then this will largely be a moot matter.

Last edited on Tue Oct 31st, 2017 03:05 am by CBB9M



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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 10:49 am
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JAMMAN

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CBB9M wrote: I have what may be a surprise for you.......you could do noting more than just charge the existing R12 system with R134 and it'll work fine. To discourage leakage on the compressor shaft seal, remove at least a few ounces of the mineral oil, or for that matter as much as you can drain, and replace with the exact same amount, then charge with 134. If you really wanna get fancy you could swap orifice tubes. Just be aware that the volume requirements of R12 and R134 will not be identical but if you're charging by pressure then this will largely be a moot matter.

I've always wondered about that.. they are both fluids that get compressed then released, there couldn't be a WHOLE lot of difference in them. Not like converting your radiator to take oil or your crankcase to take warer LOL.

Have you actually done this? Replace the mineral oil with  Polyalkylene Glycol?



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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 03:13 pm
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CBB9M
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I've done R12 >> R134 conversions, yes. And there actually is a significant difference between refrigerants, largely in the boiling temp. FWIW, it just so happens that, R12 and R134 both at about the same temp (in the system, ~32*F, and this temperature, as we know, is significant and in A/C, the evap cannot run at this temp for an extended period of time). Below is a graph that illustrates the relationship between Psat VS Temp for various refrigerants, you may find it of interest.

Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 03:16 pm by CBB9M



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