Pulling a 4.0 - 6 Cylinder Gasoline - Ranger Engine Tech

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JAMMAN

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I'm in the process of pulling a 4.0 from a 98 ranger with an automatic.

I have never pulled one, I don't see a way to get to the nuts on the flex plate to separate it from the torque converter. I thought everything had an access plate for this on the bell housing.

How do you get it off, go through the starter hole? Or is it standard procedure to pull the trans/transfer case with the motor?

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Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 09:06 am

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black06xlt
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Starter is we do it at work

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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
2000 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 5 speed

Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 10:36 am

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JAMMAN

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Funny too all 4 of the exhaust flange bolts looked super. Heated up the manifold anyway as per standard procedure and the things would not come out. I buzzed thru 3 of them with a torch but the driver side top one I can't see. Going to have to remove plastic from fender well I believe.

I swear the 302 was easier to manipulate than this 4.0.

It had something else I had not seen, like a little shock absorber on a bracket on the front of the motor driver side. Other side of shock attached to frame. Is that to stabilize some sort of motor twist against the mounts? Seems like the mounts would be sufficient. I'll look at my 00 today and see if they exist on that one.

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Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 10:46 am

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black06xlt
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It's for vibration really a not needed part. Mine doesn't have one

Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 01:22 pm

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Idahome

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The engine damper is pretty cool, used that for a few years on the ranger. Some performance dudes will use those brackets and install a chain there, forcing the engine to stop twisting and forcing the torque into the rear driveshaft

Pulling an OHV is pretty simple
Drop the transmission crossmember and you can lower the t case and trans enough to see all of the bellhousing bolts. I use a 24-32" extension and do all of the BH bolts from around the back of the tailhousing at once
You have to put a socket on the front of the crank damper and turn the engine so you can access each converter bolt through the starter port.

Access ports!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA that's a good one!!
This isn't a Chevy!

Pulling the upper intake makes it alot easier for some people, you can get the top 2 bellhousing bolts from behind the engine and the trans dipstick bolt is up there too.
For a first timer pulling the inner fender skirts is a good idea.
If you break the exhaust bolt off in the manifold, no bother, with a torch you will be able to get the remaining stud out of the manifold easier when its out of the truck
I always chase the threads on those manifolds before any exhaust bolts go back in

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Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2018 09:26 pm

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Mike69

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On the 60's & 70's Ford's the auto trans had inspection covers on the lower front of the trans that were held on by 2 bolts. Remove the 2 bolts & the inspection cover & then you could remove the torque converter to flex plate bolts from there.

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05 F150 XLT Reg Cab, 2WD, 5.4L, Auto (My DD)
00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto
99 Explorer Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, Auto
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd(Project & my future toy)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)

Posted: Thu Jul 12th, 2018 12:22 am

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Idahome

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the 302 is the same way I was just messin
None of the cologne engines have any short cuts in place

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 02:00 am

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JAMMAN

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410customs wrote:
Pulling an OHV is pretty simple
Drop the transmission crossmember
I looked at that tonight. ? The crossmember on my 2WD coil spring was 3 bolts on one side 3 on the other down it came.

This thing looks like it is tied in with the torsion bars somehow. it has bolts going in the side where I expected but it has an array going upward also in to what looks like the place where the torsion bars end (or begin depending on if you are an optimist or a pessimist.)

If it were not so rusty they might not all blend in together but they do. Is there a breakaway of this in some tech manual I could look at I would hate to get slapped in the forehead by a trans crossmember because it is on a torsion bar. Unless you know exactly where and how many bolts to remove.

I'll have to do this exact thing again a couple days after finishing this one I bet it is easier LOL.

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 06:10 am

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black06xlt
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There should only be 2 or 4 bolts. The bolts go through the crossmember. You do not have to touch the t-bars. At work I usually cut the crossmember with a saw. Perks of working in a salvage yard

Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 01:24 pm

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Idahome

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4 13mm bolts go straight up then you have a 15mm head bolt with a 17mm nut on both sides that goes through both pieces. Drop the 19mm trans mount bolts and get out a small pry bar or big flathead and pry the center section of th ex member down. This is assuming you have a jack under your t case
remove the center part of the x member and slowly let the t case down.

Now you can use your impact and extensions and remove all the upper bellhousing bolts and the dipstick holding bolt also

As stated above the center section of the x member drops down, the ends with the torsion bar adjusters stays attached to the frame

Last edited on Fri Jul 13th, 2018 01:24 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 01:28 pm

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JAMMAN

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OK I got it the middle comes down on the 4 wheelers good to know thanks. I'll try it tonight.

Leave it down to yank the motor or put it back in? Meaning keep the motor tipped or level it back out.

Thanks

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 01:30 pm

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JAMMAN

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Also I assume my 99 expo 4.0 4wd will be virtually identical? AKA donor.

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 01:59 pm

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black06xlt
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JAMMAN wrote:
Also I assume my 99 expo 4.0 4wd will be virtually identical? AKA donor.
Exactly the same

Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 02:07 pm

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Idahome

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So here's the trick to putting the engine back in shhhhh its a huge secret

TAKE the engine mount plates off the side of the block
With the engine block hanging on the hoist you can now EASILY stab the engine to the trans....now lift it back up and install the plates, then drop onto the mounts.

Yes leave x member dropped until the engine and trans are one again.

I'm giving away all the tricks I have learned for the last 25 years!! I lost count of how many engines and trans I have done....

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 02:13 pm

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JAMMAN

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And I do appreciate it as will many members to come. It can only increase the amount of work you get from exposure since you do not advertise that I know of.

I'll start another thread on another issue stay tuned..... :)

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 02:20 pm

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Idahome

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NO I DON'T ADVERTISE! once word gets out.....and the flood has already begun, we have many many projects lined up and parts flying out of here. replacing a SOHC in a 06 right now with 307K on the clock! Installing our 2007 Engine for a customer. Lots of good folks up here
I would build a website and advertise, etc etc but I already have a career and do not want a shop that Joe public can just walk into, private invite only! Its a very fine balance.....Craigslist RULES!!

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 12:47 am

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JAMMAN

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410customs wrote:
4 13mm bolts go straight up then you have a 15mm head bolt with a 17mm nut on both sides that goes through both pieces. Drop the 19mm trans mount bolts and get out a small pry bar or big flathead and pry the center section of th ex member down. This is assuming you have a jack under your t case
remove the center part of the x member and slowly let the t case down.

Now you can use your impact and extensions and remove all the upper bellhousing bolts and the dipstick holding bolt also

As stated above the center section of the x member drops down, the ends with the torsion bar adjusters stays attached to the frame

Gospel on the trans mount. I left it on the trans so far. It had some sort of brush guard across the frame at the t-case that I had to remove (4 10MM head bolts going upward) to get the jack under it.

I have a gas tank guard too, everything is covered except the front where it needs it LOL.

So tonight I FINALLY got that top starter bolt off what a pain, tried many things then left it till I dropped the trans mount, was easier to get to. I used a huge breaker bar with a pipe and it still wouldn't come out (extension torsion) so I put a 1/2 air impact on it and laid on it for about a minute. Eventually it did give up and come out.

So what is left is taking the wires off the starter and getting it out of the way (how in the world would one change a starter on a 4.0 without half pulling the motor), Torque converter nuts, ONE EXHAUST STUD STILL, and all the trans bolts. Should lift right out after that.

I bet the second one is much easier since I'll have it all still fresh in my head.

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 02:01 am

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black06xlt
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That year truck should have 3 skid plates. 1 in the front under the radiator 1 under the tcase and 1 under the gas tank

Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 11:54 am

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JAMMAN

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Front one was gone, removed sometime during the trucks life.

I did get the plastic off the back doors enough to reach the latches. I think. They look pretty well guarded. 2 cables one going to top latch one to bottom. Nothing busted just looks a little rusted.

Almost like it was never used.

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 01:37 pm

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Idahome

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oh yeah starter on the 4.0 SUCK!!!!!!! But do able
Make sure you disco the - battery cable
That big wire on the starter is HOT and will spark /arc /weld things together if it touches ground

I use a 13mm wrench on top starter bolt...and a second wrench for leverage
The 13mm wrench and speed wrench are your friends for working on the 4.0

When you pull the engine off the trans be ready to catch some trans fluid..... if you are pulling the converter with the engine you will lose alot of fluid. If you unbolt the converter from the flexplate first (this is what I do) you will only lose a little fluid

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 07:30 pm

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JAMMAN

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No battery, no spark :)

I plan on taking the nuts off the flex plate if I can get to them easily once I have Chinese puzzled the starter out of its nest. The other way would damage the seal, possibly the bearing area and perhaps the tangs for the oil pump.

OK that was old school does the converter on that one have flats/tangs that drive an oil pump in the front of the transmission? I remember killing an oil pump one time installing a GM motor, didn't have the tangs lined up and pulled it too far with the bell housing. Snapped the SOB's right off. Just sat there would not move LOL.

Man the things we learn by screwing up.

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 08:06 pm

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black06xlt
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It should have something to engage the pump

Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 09:12 pm

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Idahome

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It engages the pump with a small driveshaft inside the front input shaft no tangs in these models you won’t break anything but I never pull an engine without first unbolting the converter unless the engine is seized then you have no choice

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