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2003 4.0l ranger v8 swap, need help with #: 2580

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Posted: Thu Nov 3rd, 2022 09:06 am

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Just recently did a v8 swap on a 2003 4.0l ranger 4x4, using a 2000 mercury mountaineer.

I use the engine, engine wiring harness, battery/starter harness, transmission, transfer case, and rear end.

I sent the ECM out and had PATS deleted.

I kept the ranger engine bay harness/fuse box, but the connection to the fuse box for the battery/starter cable isnt the same for the explorer.

Ranger fuse box

Ranger battery/starter cable

explorer fuse box, connections from battery/starter cable

explorer battery/starter harness attached to the ranger fuse box. is this correct?

this plug was cut off the ranger battery/starter harness, and spliced into the explorer harness, that had the opposite plug type. yellow wire goes to the starter if i remember correctly.

I have everything hooked up to my knowledge correctly. i have power to the cab, all dash lights come on, but when i turn the key, i don't even get a click, won't turn over.

I had to use the ranger battery/starter harness to get a particular plug and swapped it to the explorer harness, the one that carries the yellow/blue wire and the two AC wires.

can anyone help me get this figured out?

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Posted: Thu Nov 3rd, 2022 10:39 pm

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Welcome to FR!

I don't personally own an electrical diagram for either of the vehicles in the swap.

Looks like the big cable are in the right position, I would take a volt meter and make sure you have 12V at the starter. The small wire is kinda the "trip" wire and will need 12V when the key is in the start position.

I would separate that plug assy, ground the volt meter (once you have established there is indeed 12V to the starter via that cable from the fuse box) and see if when you turn the key forward you get 12V to the wire coming from the truck side of the plug. I bet you are not.

I would start there, you are real close to getting it to crank!

If you are sure that wire from the connector goes to the starter solenoid (you must be sure by checking with an ohm meter) you can feed 12V to the solenoid and it will crank.

Could be as simple as a bad solenoid if it doesn't crank when you feed it with 12V.

Alternately if you are getting 12V to the big wire on the starter, go under with a screwdriver and short from the hot wire on the starter to the little wire, it should kick. If it kicks, you aren't getting voltage from the key start position to the wire.

I'll poke around a little I have an electrical diagram for a 2001 Ranger should be similar to your 2003. I'm sure my 97 mountaineer diagram is vastly different than your 2000.

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Posted: Thu Nov 3rd, 2022 11:43 pm

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Thank you for the welcome!

I tried to jumper the starter wire to the smaller post, but i just don't have the ability to see what im doing to the solenoid from under the truck. I'm pretty sure i have power at the starter, since it threw sparks at me when i accidentally grounded that post to the starter casing, but i plan to poke it with my multimeter in the morning and check for certain. I'll have to find a way to hold the key in the start position and test that smaller yellow wire that goes to the starter solenoid.

if you have them, wiring diagrams would be fantastic. i've found a few here and there through google searches but what i've found hasn't been very detailed. I've been spending the last couple of days going through other peoples swaps and looking at their wiring best i can lol.

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Posted: Sat Nov 5th, 2022 07:31 pm

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Did some stabbing around with the multi-meter today.

no 12v to starter relay wire, when in the cranking position.
no 12v to fuse 24 in fuse panel, when in the cranking position.
only got 12v at starter relay from pole 30, constant battery power. no 12v power to pole 87 on starter relay while cranking, which should be the starter relay leg.

using this diagram as reference for an 03 Ranger.

I did have the steering column removed while doing this swap, because i originally planned to swap in the explorer column but decided to just send the pcm out to have PATS removed.

Going to check that i got everything under the dash plugged in correctly, but i think if the dash lights are all coming on, i'd assume it is. going to also try using a jumper in the starter relay circuit and see if i can get the engine to turn over.
Not sure what im missing here, i don't seem to have power to the solenoid circuit while turning the key.

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Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2022 12:42 am

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Is it an automatic or manual? I'm smelling neutral safety switch.

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Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2022 10:01 am

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This is an automatic.

the plug that connects to the transmission plug, the big one with the bolt, did get a little...... crushed..... during assembly. i may just have to replace the transmission harness.

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Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2022 04:11 pm

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For testing you could connect a jumper from the pink wire coming in to the DTRS to the tan/red wire going to the relay. Just for testing though, leaving it like that would allow the engine to crank in any gear could potentially be dangerous.

You really need a pal to hold the multimeter while you turn the key.

Again make sure the transmission is physically in park before trying this. You could also with help check for power at the pink wire when the key is in start position then check voltage at the wire coming out. If you don't have voltage during attempted cranking then the problem is further back than the DTRS.

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Posted: Sun Nov 6th, 2022 10:40 pm

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may i ask what you are referring to when you say DTRS? is that the wire connector?

I did get the engine to turn over today, by using a jumper to supply power from the battery directly to the starter relay wire. at least i know the engine will crank and it even tried to start, but i didn't push it too much as i haven't rechecked all my fluid levels.

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 12:54 am

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Digital Transmission Range Sensor, it's that black switch looking thing on the trans that has an electrical connection AND the lever actuated by the shift cable. I see in the wiring diagram it is just labeled DTR I've always included the S for sensor, I have seen it somewhere written as that.

It is the only switch between the start switch and the relay. The relay for the relay could be bad too LOL it is in the power distribution fuse box. The ignition switch itself couldn't put the amperage needed to activate the huge relay coil on the starter, so they use it to activate a relay with beefier contacts.

So there is starter switch (in steering column) goes to:

Relay in the main fuse box (power distribution box) goes to:

the solenoid on the starter.

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 08:57 am

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gotcha. from the diagram i posted in the first post, can i just take the pink feed to the DTRS and connect it to the TAN/RED feed out of the DTRS, and bypass the neutral safety switch all together?

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 12:52 pm

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Just for testing. Would be better to have a bud check voltage as you turn key forward.

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 06:21 pm

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bypassing the neutral safety switch netted me nothing. still just dead when turning the key. i did however get the motor to run today, so at least there is that. I'm going to continue putting it together, try to get the transmission working next. I have this strange feeling that i forgot to plug in the harness from the engine to the transmission.......

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 09:33 pm

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showdotrun wrote:
bypassing the neutral safety switch netted me nothing. still just dead when turning the key. i did however get the motor to run today, so at least there is that. I'm going to continue putting it together, try to get the transmission working next. I have this strange feeling that i forgot to plug in the harness from the engine to the transmission.......
You know, that happens. I forgot one and ended up having to raise the engine again and pull it forward to fish it down the left side. Wasn't enough room to put the connector through, firewall clearance.

Too bad I never got it started.

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 11:38 pm

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i have reverse lights, so i must have the transmission harness plugged in?

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Posted: Mon Nov 7th, 2022 11:53 pm

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Pretty good indicator. Unless they are on all the time.

You need to start at that central junction box fuse. And you need to get someone to help you turn the key while you are testing things. Anyone. Neighbor kid, any age would probably do it for a cookie or an ice cream sandwich. Well worth it.

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Posted: Thu Nov 24th, 2022 01:22 pm

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got a host of engine codes to hunt down. gonna be fun.

p0113 IAT sensor too high of voltage

p0118 temperature sensor

P1747 refers to a transmission issue.
The PCM has detected
a malfunction within the EPC
(Electronic Pressure Circuit) circuit.

P0750 indicates a malfunction
for a transmission shift solenoid.

p0755
indicates that there is a problem with the
transmission's shift solenoid B

p0743
Low transmission fluid level
Faulty Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid

p1451
evap canister error

p0135/p0155
oxygen sensor

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Posted: Fri Dec 2nd, 2022 07:03 am

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Hey there, I was sick for a spell and just now have returned. I took a quick look some of them are probably real, some of them not. The 1451 will take an act of God to fix and the car will run just fine.

Have to go to work, I'll look in to it tonight for a while.

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Posted: Sun Dec 4th, 2022 10:28 pm

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pretty sure all the trans codes are due to the damaged 42 pin plug to the trans. i went to a yard and pulled a new one, plan to repin the existing one. transmission seems to "work" i can tell it drops into gear foward/backward, but the truck wont let me gas it past 3k to even try to move it. revs up okay in park or neutral, once its warmed up.

p0113 IAT sensor too high of voltage

p0118 temperature sensor

These two have been corrected, and no longer show up.

the transmission ones flag every time and the 1451.

The O2 sensors will always get flagged until i get them flashed out, as i'm not using cats.

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Posted: Mon Dec 5th, 2022 10:42 pm

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good news! got the truck to finally start via key today. apparently the 03 has a ground that comes from the 03 ranger pcm to the starter relay.
I pulled that wire, grounded to chassis, and she fired up.

still wont rev very high, and if i put it in gear and give it gas, it just tried to die.

repinned the 42 pin plug to the trans from the engine harness today, since i damaged the original one.
even after repinning, im still getting code p1747,p0755.

also still getting p1451, going to start looking into this one next.

temp gauge works now, as does battery guage i think. oil pressure doesn't, but i know that needs repinned.

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Posted: Tue Dec 6th, 2022 07:06 am

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Fixing the 1451 won't cure the symptom, you can live with 1451 for the rest of your life. It's annoying but the evap will not change the way the truck runs. Leave it for after several happy drives with a 5.0!

How did this engine run before it was pulled from the mounty?
Were there any similar issues with the 4.0 in the 03 before you yanked it?

I would take a fuel pressure reading with a gauge, monitor it when you start and rev it up. If that turns out 60/70 PSI across what little throttle you have then you need to look at extreme vacuum leaks/timing issues (did you pull the cam synch out) which would normally throw a heavy code but you did have it flashed.

Do you have enough an exhaust on it to hear a bad vacuum leak?

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Posted: Tue Dec 6th, 2022 05:33 pm

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good to know on the 1451. i'll ignore it for the time being.

the monty ran and drove without any issues before i pulled it. only sat for about a month in my garage before install.

the 4.0 ran fine, though occasionally would be hesitant to start, and would have to crank on it awhile, mostly after it had just been driving recently.

I only have about 3 feet of pipe welded up so far, still working on exhaust.

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Posted: Wed Dec 7th, 2022 05:14 pm

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messed around with it a bit more today. will idle pretty well in park after its warmed up, and if i slowly revv it up i can revv to however high i want,
it's anything like normal usage of the gas pedal it stumbles on its face and dies.

also, will just barely idle in gear, and if i try to slowly rev it in gear it will die.

I don't currently have a fuel pressure gauge but that is my next check.

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Posted: Wed Dec 7th, 2022 06:49 pm

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U sure all the sensors are hooked up, throttle position especially? Sounds like it is starving itself.

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Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2022 09:18 am

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I checked throttle position sensor, IAT sensor, mass airflow sensor, everything seems to be seated. wouldn't there be a thrown code if they weren't?

It also reeks of fuel, so it's definitely running rich.

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Posted: Thu Dec 8th, 2022 05:59 pm

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pulled out my fancier scan tool today and decided to check some things:

TPS reports correctly.
02 sensor output voltage bank 1 sensor 1: .285 volts at idle
02 sensor output voltage bank 2 sensor 1: 0 volts (i believe this is dead.)
0 volts on bank 1/2 sensor 2: I have these unplugged, so expected.
MAS sensor reports air flow rates

trouble code p0155- 02 sensor heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1
trouble code p1401- Diff pres feedback EGR CIRC high input
trouble code P1409- EGR vacuum regulator solenoid CIRC

seems my fancier scanner gives me more trouble codes than my cheap one does.

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