JAMMAN
Owns A Torsen
Joined: Mon Sep 18th, 2017
Posts: 6528
Name: Jim ... Occupation: 5 axis cnc programmer ... Interests: RBV's ...
Reputation Points: 6528
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I'm more just venting but I have been battling this issue with a 2000 3.0 for since I've owned it.
When I bought it being a 3.0 and the seller describing the problem, I replaced the cam synch before I even drove it.
Ran fine for 2 trips then it started cutting out/bucking. It was classic crank sensor pre failure so I replaced that.
2 trips later it did it again.
So it sat all winter in my garage, I installed a fuel pressure gauge and a voltage meter after the inertia switch thinking it might be fuel.
It cuts out, no change in fuel or voltage.
So I kept driving it and MAN did it get worse. CEL, PIP errors and the tach goes out momentarily when it bucks.
This thing was in an accident and rebuilt. I am thinking I have some sort of wire issue between the crank sensor and wherever it goes mostly because of the tach. The tach is driven off a signal from the crank sensor and it would make sense since that signal fires everything else too. Might be wire, might be connector, might be corroded pin on ECU, might be even a bad joint on the board of the ECU.
I can't find a whole bunch on what is the most common thing, but I have to fix this being I want to sell the incredibly good 3.0 that is in it to help recover funds from the eventual V8 swap.
I have worked on cars since I was 15 years old. Figured out tons of strange problems. This one is testing me.
** end of rant ***
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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
01 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 3.0 auto Silver
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