View single post by 12° North Industries
 Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2018 11:24 pm
PM Quote Reply Full Topic
12° North Industries

Joined: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017
Location: Las Vegas NevadaUSA
Posts: 364
Reputation Points: 769
Best thing to do would be to source the leak; remove all A-arm pillar covers, kick panels,and if possible pull carpet back in the foot wells,(removal of center console/cup holders may be necessary.) Open the hood.

Take a garden hose, remove any attachments so its water pouring out not spraying at this point. If only rain gets in, you wont need to do an actual pressure test honestly.

Have someone stand in the bed if possible and use the hose to pour water down all of the front windshield area while you are inside with a flashlight and listening for the sound of water trickling. Watch floors, a-arm pillars, and kick panels for signs of leaking.

Now you didnt mention where the water leaks too so much outside of a windshield problem so I am leaving out the 3rd brake light as a culprit. But depending on where the water can be traced back to and what side of the vehicle it could be a rusted pinch weld or seam.

I personally think if it leaked before and after the new windshield your leak is lower and possibly either coming in from a torn boot/grommet in a door jam or the firewall or possible rust/hole under the cowl which will be a task to remedy possibly without possible serious effort. All a glass shop is going to do is the aforementioned test which I may add might be a 5  minute test or a 30 min test. But if water gets in when it rains, and hosing down the windshield does not activate the leak, its down lower.

Much luck, let us know what you find. when you find the type of leak it was, then we can apply or suggest the corrective measurement for the need.

Last edited on Wed Mar 7th, 2018 11:26 pm by 12° North Industries

12° North Industries
Las Vegas, Nevada 89118