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Tips for hauling drywall?
 Moderated by: MaDMaXX, Mike69, NoPower
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 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2018 05:37 pm
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aroundincircles
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 So, I've carried a lot in the bed of my truck, but I've never carried drywall in it. I've done it before in my dad's truck, but that's a long bed, and an 8" sheet of drywall sits flat in it, between the wheel wells. anybody who's carried it have any tips to not damage it?
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 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2018 07:35 pm
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Eddie Money
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 Buy one sheet of plywood to go on the bottom. Keep the tailgate up and dont overload your truck



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 Posted: Mon Dec 3rd, 2018 07:53 pm
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aroundincircles
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 Yeah, I'm literally buying just one sheet to fix a hole caused by our A/C leaking while we were gone this summer. its a 3x6' hole, wife is sick of looking at the plastic covering the hole, and I just haven't had time to deal with it. I thought about buying the sheet of plywood, but didn't know if it was the best way or not.
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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 12:48 am
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Eddie Money
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 if you are only getting one sheet you are probably fine. Just keep the tailgate up and load it white side up. Careful the corners and edges of course. If you pull some of the paper off the back in the load/unload it's not a big deal.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 05:05 pm
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 Tailgate up is the best advice. If it is not a step side bed it will sit on the tailgate top and the rear wheel wells. I have done this quite a few times, it works well.
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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 12:17 am
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Bird76Mojo
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 If you ask at the home center or lumber yard, sometimes they'll have partial sheets of drywall board that got damaged during shipping, etc. If it's large enough to patch the hole in your wall that is..

I forgot to mention that most bedliners, and some internal truck bed panels have built in recesses that are made to put the ends of 2x4's into to haul flat sheets on top of. You just have to measure and cut your 2x4's to length. A pretty handy little idea that they incorporated in.. You could put a sheet of plywood on the bottom if you think the middle will sag and crack/break your sheets.

Like this:





GB :)

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 12:23 am by Bird76Mojo
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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 01:05 am
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 Only problem is that a 4X8 sheet of drywall won't fit in a Ranger bed with the tailgate up.
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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 02:29 am
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Bird76Mojo
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 That's not really a problem seeing how there's a super easy solution. Tailgate down, one ratchet strap needed...




GB :)
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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 09:45 pm
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black06xlt
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 Eddie Money wrote:
Buy one sheet of plywood to go on the bottom. Keep the tailgate up and dont overload your truck
2x4's are a hell of sight cheaper only 2 needed



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 Posted: Wed Dec 5th, 2018 09:54 pm
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 You could also purchase a couple 8ft pieces of 1x4 pine & lay them from the front bottom of the bed over the closed tailgate & lay the sheet rock on them.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 03:10 am
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Eddie Money
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 You could have it delivered too. Lol. Amazon....
Just dont try to do too much. Happy holidays!

Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 03:24 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 10:04 am
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JAMMAN

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 That's just too much negative camber.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:08 pm
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Ordinary Biker
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 Who needs a truck?

Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:08 pm by Ordinary Biker
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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 11:21 pm
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buggman
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 i always keep a couple 2x4's in the bed of the ranger in case i need to pick up one sheet of something. i lay them on the tailgate into the bed & let the sheet goods hang over the end of the tailgate (tailgate up of course) and make sure the 2x4's extend out so they support the end of the material that hangs over the bed of the truck. so far, never broke a sheet, 1/4" plywood, 1/2" drywall, particleboard, etc :-)



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 Posted: Fri Dec 7th, 2018 10:44 pm
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aroundincircles
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 Successfully brought home two sheets:



all my worries of destroying the drywall were for nothing. Now I get to destroy it trying to install it tomorrow.
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 Posted: Sat Dec 8th, 2018 01:57 pm
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Ordinary Biker
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 Glad it worked out. I have hauled dozens of sheets of it just that way.

I'm pretty good at drywall myself. Even though I hate it.
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 Posted: Tue Dec 11th, 2018 03:35 am
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aroundincircles
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 Ordinary Biker wrote:
Glad it worked out.  I have hauled dozens of sheets of it just that way.

I'm pretty good at drywall myself.  Even though I hate it.
I am pretty crap at drywall, but at least there isn't a hole anymore (I still need to tape, and mud it, but its better than just the plastic that was there.)

Attachment: image1.jpeg (Downloaded 22 times)
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 Posted: Tue Dec 11th, 2018 03:21 pm
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 aroundincircles wrote:
I am pretty crap at drywall, but at least there isn't a hole anymore (I still need to tape, and mud it, but its better than just the plastic that was there.)

Hey, that looks good!  For the corners if you don't have it already, pick up one of these 


Makes neat corners easier.  Personally I prefer using the dry mix drywall compound as you can then make as much as you want, and make it thicker or thinner if you like.  I usually got the dry in 20 minutes variety.  Texture matching will be the hardest part of this.
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 Posted: Tue Dec 11th, 2018 07:27 pm
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 I HATE doing the mudding part of drywall repairs. What I have done in the past if the mud is too thick I have added some water to it.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 11th, 2018 07:38 pm
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 That is why I like mixing my own.  Plus you get to mix up just however much you need.  Thos boxes of pre-mixed get to be a pain to use after not to long.  This is what I prefer:
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 Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 03:08 am
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Eddie Money
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 I wouldnt worry too much about mud and tape. Fill it, let it dry, knock down the rough stuff, then blow your texture. Texture will hide any imperfections. It looks like you used 1/2" instead of 5/8. Might take a lot more texture to blend in. I just did this in my family room. Use warm water and a putty knife to scrape some of the texture off the old stuff to put in your corner metal. Blowing texture is easy. If you are going to use can texture I'd recommend the pro version
 You can get it at home crepo. The big can is about $15-19 and you'll need at least 5-6 cans. It's more expensive but much easier to control than the hopper and a compressor.

Last edited on Wed Dec 12th, 2018 03:19 am by Eddie Money



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 Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 03:34 am
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Eddie Money
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 I use this to Mudd. You can use the leftovers for texture using a air compressor and hopper. Or...

You can use the 5min mud like ordinarybiker and get the can texture. It comes in different types like knockdown, orange peel, etc..

I would spend the extra $2 and get the pro grade. The applicator is better and easier to use.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2018 01:38 pm
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 Eddie Money wrote:
I wouldnt worry too much about mud and tape. Fill it, let it dry, knock down the rough stuff, then blow your texture. Texture will hide any imperfections. It looks like you used 1/2" instead of 5/8. Might take a lot more texture to blend in. I just did this in my family room. Use warm water and a putty knife to scrape some of the texture off the old stuff to put in your corner metal. Blowing texture is easy. If you are going to use can texture I'd recommend the pro version
 You can get it at home crepo. The big can is about $15-19 and you'll need at least 5-6 cans. It's more expensive but much easier to control than the hopper and a compressor.
That is what drywall texture is for!
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