So, I've carried a lot in the bed of my truck, but I've never carried drywall in it. I've done it before in my dad's truck, but that's a long bed, and an 8" sheet of drywall sits flat in it, between the wheel wells. anybody who's carried it have any tips to not damage it?

Buy one sheet of plywood to go on the bottom. Keep the tailgate up and dont overload your truck

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

Yeah, I'm literally buying just one sheet to fix a hole caused by our A/C leaking while we were gone this summer. its a 3x6' hole, wife is sick of looking at the plastic covering the hole, and I just haven't had time to deal with it. I thought about buying the sheet of plywood, but didn't know if it was the best way or not.

if you are only getting one sheet you are probably fine. Just keep the tailgate up and load it white side up. Careful the corners and edges of course. If you pull some of the paper off the back in the load/unload it's not a big deal.

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

Tailgate up is the best advice. If it is not a step side bed it will sit on the tailgate top and the rear wheel wells. I have done this quite a few times, it works well.

If you ask at the home center or lumber yard, sometimes they'll have partial sheets of drywall board that got damaged during shipping, etc. If it's large enough to patch the hole in your wall that is..

I forgot to mention that most bedliners, and some internal truck bed panels have built in recesses that are made to put the ends of 2x4's into to haul flat sheets on top of. You just have to measure and cut your 2x4's to length. A pretty handy little idea that they incorporated in.. You could put a sheet of plywood on the bottom if you think the middle will sag and crack/break your sheets.

Like this:





GB

Last edited on Wed Dec 5th, 2018 12:23 am by Bird76Mojo

Only problem is that a 4X8 sheet of drywall won't fit in a Ranger bed with the tailgate up.

That's not really a problem seeing how there's a super easy solution. Tailgate down, one ratchet strap needed...




GB

Eddie Money wrote:
Buy one sheet of plywood to go on the bottom. Keep the tailgate up and dont overload your truck
2x4's are a hell of sight cheaper only 2 needed

____________________
2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto

You could also purchase a couple 8ft pieces of 1x4 pine & lay them from the front bottom of the bed over the closed tailgate & lay the sheet rock on them.

____________________
08 Escape 4x4(spare)
00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto(My DD)
99 Explorer Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, Auto( Wife's DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd(Project & my future toy)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)

You could have it delivered too. Lol. Amazon....
Just dont try to do too much. Happy holidays!

Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 03:24 am by Eddie Money

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

That's just too much negative camber.

____________________
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Modern technology has us all connected like the Borg on Star Trek. The Smart phone is a device used to keep us plugged into the coveted collective.

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Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:08 pm by Ordinary Biker

i always keep a couple 2x4's in the bed of the ranger in case i need to pick up one sheet of something. i lay them on the tailgate into the bed & let the sheet goods hang over the end of the tailgate (tailgate up of course) and make sure the 2x4's extend out so they support the end of the material that hangs over the bed of the truck. so far, never broke a sheet, 1/4" plywood, 1/2" drywall, particleboard, etc :-)

____________________
1996 XLT Supercab 4.0L 4x4
Lots of Explorer parts & tons of my custom mods.

Successfully brought home two sheets:



all my worries of destroying the drywall were for nothing. Now I get to destroy it trying to install it tomorrow.

Glad it worked out. I have hauled dozens of sheets of it just that way.

I'm pretty good at drywall myself. Even though I hate it.

Ordinary Biker wrote:
Glad it worked out.  I have hauled dozens of sheets of it just that way.

I'm pretty good at drywall myself.  Even though I hate it.
I am pretty crap at drywall, but at least there isn't a hole anymore (I still need to tape, and mud it, but its better than just the plastic that was there.)

Attachment: image1.jpeg (Downloaded 22 times)

aroundincircles wrote:
I am pretty crap at drywall, but at least there isn't a hole anymore (I still need to tape, and mud it, but its better than just the plastic that was there.)

Hey, that looks good!  For the corners if you don't have it already, pick up one of these 


Makes neat corners easier.  Personally I prefer using the dry mix drywall compound as you can then make as much as you want, and make it thicker or thinner if you like.  I usually got the dry in 20 minutes variety.  Texture matching will be the hardest part of this.

I HATE doing the mudding part of drywall repairs. What I have done in the past if the mud is too thick I have added some water to it.

____________________
08 Escape 4x4(spare)
00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto(My DD)
99 Explorer Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, Auto( Wife's DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd(Project & my future toy)
14 Kawasaki Vulcan (Wife's Toy)

That is why I like mixing my own.  Plus you get to mix up just however much you need.  Thos boxes of pre-mixed get to be a pain to use after not to long.  This is what I prefer:

I wouldnt worry too much about mud and tape. Fill it, let it dry, knock down the rough stuff, then blow your texture. Texture will hide any imperfections. It looks like you used 1/2" instead of 5/8. Might take a lot more texture to blend in. I just did this in my family room. Use warm water and a putty knife to scrape some of the texture off the old stuff to put in your corner metal. Blowing texture is easy. If you are going to use can texture I'd recommend the pro version
 You can get it at home crepo. The big can is about $15-19 and you'll need at least 5-6 cans. It's more expensive but much easier to control than the hopper and a compressor.

Last edited on Wed Dec 12th, 2018 03:19 am by Eddie Money

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

I use this to Mudd. You can use the leftovers for texture using a air compressor and hopper. Or...

You can use the 5min mud like ordinarybiker and get the can texture. It comes in different types like knockdown, orange peel, etc..

I would spend the extra $2 and get the pro grade. The applicator is better and easier to use.

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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger

Eddie Money wrote:
I wouldnt worry too much about mud and tape. Fill it, let it dry, knock down the rough stuff, then blow your texture. Texture will hide any imperfections. It looks like you used 1/2" instead of 5/8. Might take a lot more texture to blend in. I just did this in my family room. Use warm water and a putty knife to scrape some of the texture off the old stuff to put in your corner metal. Blowing texture is easy. If you are going to use can texture I'd recommend the pro version
 You can get it at home crepo. The big can is about $15-19 and you'll need at least 5-6 cans. It's more expensive but much easier to control than the hopper and a compressor.
That is what drywall texture is for!