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Wheel spacers?       #: 218
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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 02:38 am
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MaDMaXX

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Just mulling this one over.


4x2 - 1 inch spacers, stock wheels.


Thoughts? opinions? recommendations?



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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 05:28 am
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I use 1.25" spacers on my truck because the Wheels I have are off an AWD Explorer not the Ranger ones. So the offset is different and to put the wheels where they belong i needed to add the spacer.. The new wheels I wont need them any longer.

As a normal spacer depending on your needs, personally unless your using a different bolt pattern style, I wouldn't go over 1.25-1.50" spacers. You'd be better off getting the correct offset for your application and needs...

I seen quite a few "horror" stories being told about spacers and I'd have to say for what some people were doing, unfortunately you get what you deserve. throwing 2.5" spacers on wheels that you picked up second hand and MADE fir as you would have it and then taking and trying to jump your truck and you wonder why you end up with bearing issues or snapped spindles or what have ya.

CBB may have more input on this..

Last edited on Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 05:29 am by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 06:32 am
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MaDMaXX

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Yeah, right now at least, i'm just looking to fill the track out a little with the stock wheels.

I agree that over an inch would be too far, an inch is probably maximum i my opinion anyway.

I remember seeing all the horror stories with spacers when they started becoming popular, not something i had any interest in.


For this purpose, sticking with fully fitting hub-centric spacers and no more than an inch, i think it will work ok. Not jumping it, not 4WD etc.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 07:24 am
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Found these, anyone see problems with them?

I'm assuming the hub bore on the 2002 Ranger is 70.5 mm?

https://smile.amazon.com/Hubcentric-Wheel-Spacers-Mustang-Explorer/dp/B00DZUE8Q4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Attachment: 71mW5MJXURL._SL1500_[1].jpg (Downloaded 64 times)

Last edited on Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 07:28 am by MaDMaXX



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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 11:12 pm
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I know the wheels on a 1998+ 4x4 Ranger will not fit the front of a 1983-1997 4x4 Ranger. The center hole is too small for the locking hub to pass through.

Likewise, any 4x4 wheel specifically designed for the newer, flat front hubs (without a hub lock) will not fit the front hubs of any 2x4 ranger. It's theoretically possible to put torsion bar 4x4 hub/spindles on a 2x4 Ranger, they use the same calipers and ball joints though this would be a lot of effort. ~ Sean Votier
However, I have determined from some of the Rim manufactures I deal with that
wheels made for 5x4.5" lug patterns are NOT hub-centric, rather LUG-centric but we are looking to clear the hubs if need be.


Do you have a digital mic to measure with by chance? And are you 2WD or 4WD?





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 Posted: Wed Nov 22nd, 2017 11:27 pm
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Yes and 2WD, though it's the Edge with torsion bars, i know that changes the shocks required to the 4x4 versions, but not sure if it affects the hub.

Now that i think about it, i believe they are lug-centric, putting the wheel back on does at least center the holes as you tighten them, but without looking, i don't know if that's just rotationally, or over the hub too.

The wheels do sit over the hubs when i put them on, if that's different in any way.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 12:24 am
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Shouldnt be.. and from what I recall on my brake system upgrade. Your spindles are same as all 2WD 95+ Rangers.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 12:28 am
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Soo, what am i going to need here then?



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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 01:52 am
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I think those spacers should work fine.. are they just aluminum or are they billet? I can verify probably Friday or worse case Monday with my supplier, that's all they do is billet mounts.. 





These are what I have and offer outside of one other manufacturer and not that theirs aren't good, I'm just partial to the man who made these



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Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 02:10 am
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They appear to be aluminium, what's the deal with those you pictured? Spendy i'm assuming?


Also, whilst browsing the Q&A's and other info i'm seeing around, any thoughts/knowledge on the following?

1) They make the ride rougher
2) They wear the wheel bearings faster
3) Something else i haven't thought of



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1. I bet not
2. Not unless you do a huge spacer, bearing will handle it.
3. rubbing wheel well underneath?



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MaDMaXX wrote: They appear to be aluminium, what's the deal with those you pictured? Spendy i'm assuming?


Also, whilst browsing the Q&A's and other info i'm seeing around, any thoughts/knowledge on the following?

1) They make the ride rougher
2) They wear the wheel bearings faster
3) Something else i haven't thought of

Mine are 6061 Billet, grade 10.9 studs.. ever so slightly a couple bucks more but not to the point where you feel mugged and beaten in an alley.. lol

I can get you a quote specifically if you like for comparisons by Monday just for  s and giggles?


EDIT: Then I can compile my list for all rangers and add to the WebSite and be done with it too..

Last edited on Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 02:54 am by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 03:27 am
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Haha, i'm serious about wanting to do these, but i'd like it to be under $100 for all 4.

Also, good to go same size front and back?



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I'll see what I can do, Promise

So 1" set of 4 correct?


NOTE: My pic is misleading in the 1st shot, the two are facing one another and look like one in the darker portion of the image but there is two stacked there.

Last edited on Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 03:33 am by Undrstm8ed



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"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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Undrstm8ed wrote: I think those spacers should work fine.. are they just aluminum or are they billet?

The term "billet" simply means a solid piece. The only non billet aluminum would be castings.

7075 is a little tougher than 6061 and easier to machine.




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JAMMAN wrote: Undrstm8ed wrote: I think those spacers should work fine.. are they just aluminum or are they billet?

The term "billet" simply means a solid piece. The only non billet aluminum would be castings.

7075 is a little tougher than 6061 and easier to machine.




Good to know.. I think marketing tries to make it sound as though they "could" be two different things when using descriptions for their products.

I would assume forged and Spun would be lumped into NON billet entities too then?

Last edited on Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 04:33 am by Undrstm8ed



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"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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Yes, i think 4 1" spacers?

I'm assuming that i *do* want the same size front and back?


Also, did we work out they're supposed to lug centric then?

Last edited on Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 05:30 am by MaDMaXX



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The design of the latter pics if they are as appears are "lug centric" and the original ones you posted have a pilot.

The lug centric design eliminates problems with differences in the center hole. Both seem to do the job reliably.

Billet is a buzz word which instantly gives the enthusiast a feeling that they have a stronger product because it is made of "billet" steel or aluminum.

Since my day job is basically manufacturing of after market "stuff" for tractor and truck pullers our place has been using the word "Billet" for years and the pullers eat it up but honestly it's a sales tactic because historically billet has way drifted from it's origin/ Like saying "That's cool" when the temperature of what you are describing could be in a range from -100F for dry ice to 1800F for molten aluminum.

Originally Billet was used to describe a certain size of a raw cast piece of steel or aluminum. Not a casting as a part casting in a mold but a raw square bar cast to a particular size. Look up "ingot, slab, bloom, billet" if this history lesson is the least bit interesting and you are a weirdo like me.



So before I bail from the thread I just wrecked LOL in recap modern english Billet means made from solid and not cast into the shape. Really billet is bar stock castings but made for manufacturing parts. So forgings could be called technically billet also. Most of the "billet" parts we make are actually extruded cold rolled or hot rolled rounds. Probably not "billet" at all by definition.

Last edited on Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 12:28 pm by JAMMAN



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All good information, and it explains why Ebach stuff is aluminium.

Question that remains is which one do i need, hub or lug centric?
I know it will depend on what the stock wheels are supposed to be on the Ranger, but i don't confidentially know the answer to that question.



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Most newer wheels are now manufactured with a beveled hole to center an acorn style nut are lug-centric.

In this case, you could take any newer 5 on 4.5" wheel made in the last 5-8 years and bolt it on with no worries. Really the only time hub bore becomes a real issue is when older manufactured wheels were dependent on riding on the shoulder of the hub say like a set of Boyd one-off "billet" (there's that word again) wheels or swapping say Probe GT wheels or Mustang wheels to a Ranger and then before over analyzing we wont bring up offsets much further in this case. :)


To clarify further,

Hub Centric Vs. Lug Centric. Hub Centric Wheels are centered by the center bore of the wheel and the hub flange. Lug centric wheels are centered by the torque of the lug bolts; rather than the center bore of the wheel and the hub flange. There are two distinct types of wheels found on today's cars and light trucks.

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Thanks, Under.

So, i understand the centric part and as i said earlier, i have felt the wheels "locate" when tightening them down, i have to assume that all load bearing responsibility on the Rangers with stock wheels, is on the studs?

This being the case, whilst the hug is there and relatively tight to the stock wheels at least, there is no load on it?


I asked earlier if we knew the centricity was purely stud/lug based, or if it was both:
1) Lug centric for rotational purposes only?
2) Hub centric for load?
3) Both?
4) Lug centric for load completely?



I don't want to end up with a mess on my hands (nor would anyone) So at this point, i either need to know for sure what i need to care about re centricity, or what i don't need to care about :)


I also think i might have a stud length issue to grind off :( 1.25 inch studs and unlikely i have a quarter inch hollow in the stock steel wheels to accept that after 1 inch spacers are affixed.



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MaDMaXX wrote: Thanks, Under.

So, i understand the centric part and as i said earlier, i have felt the wheels "locate" when tightening them down, i have to assume that all load bearing responsibility on the Rangers with stock wheels, is on the studs?

This being the case, whilst the hug is there and relatively tight to the stock wheels at least, there is no load on it?


I asked earlier if we knew the centricity was purely stud/lug based, or if it was both:
1) Lug centric for rotational purposes only?
2) Hub centric for load?
3) Both?
4) Lug centric for load completely?



I don't want to end up with a mess on my hands (nor would anyone) So at this point, i either need to know for sure what i need to care about re centricity, or what i don't need to care about :)


I also think i might have a stud length issue to grind off :( 1.25 inch studs and unlikely i have a quarter inch hollow in the stock steel wheels to accept that after 1 inch spacers are affixed.


02-08 Sport trac info Should be able to scroll down just a slight bit and see where it says Go to matching vehicles then scroll down until you see Ford Ranger listings. You'll find all the same Hub bore sizes as well as stud and other great information for comparison purposes.

Load bearing is stud specific and ANY lug-centric wheel used will be as such and the hub becomes more of a lazy tire guys locator pin and nothing much more on the Ranger. Not quite sure I understand the second part of that question about the "whilst the hug is there and relatively tight to the stock wheels at least, there is no load on it".

As you can see in this 98+ assembly breakdown, the spindle (2wd ONLY) bolts to the steering knuckle, the 2WD hub assembly rides the spindle and is shimmed by seals and bearings both sides while a washer and a castle nut hold it in place. The hub assembly houses the lugs which pass through a rotor loosely and when the wheel is brought into the picture it acts as a clamp for the rotor which also centers itself on a widened shoulder of the studs in some cases much like the lugs centering themselves in the beveled edges of the wheels lug holes completing the unit. as far as where the load is, I am not sure I know how to answer that just yet. To me, I would presume the load is ideally on the spindle as that's where the bearings are located and kept lubricated.



As far as a response to your questions:
  1. Yes
  2. No
  3. No
  4. and Yes
Absolutely, I am just hoping I did not make it further confusing for you or anyone else. I think until we see something taken apart and had done that ourselves. Sometimes it is difficult to prevent the brain from over analyzing something until we do it once or twice. Like they say, sometimes you have to get your hands into it.

You may.. What I would do is when you get your spacers whether through us or otherwise. Generally you could take the time to replace each one with shorter studs available at most affluent auto-parts stores, maybe even a tire shop.

OR

Mount one spacer with two open ended lugs and take note of the depth of the lug on the threads and the spacers edge. Then I would thread all open ended lugs onto the studs, cut where needed, use the lug nuts to clean thread pitches and reassemble as needed.

Our suggestion would of course take the extra step to replacing the studs and/or consider 1.25" spacers to save time and headaches if clearances allow for it. Just a thought there.




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 Posted: Thu Nov 23rd, 2017 11:40 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Alright that sounds good, thanks.


Not sure how easy (in the grand scheme of things) replacing the studs would be, Vs grinding them off.  I'm. It sure I want to go 1.25 inches either, starting to worry about the stress and how far past the archesmud flaps I'm going to be.


Either way, I have work to do Vs just reattaching the wheels :(



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 Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 03:42 am
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Undrstm8ed
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Just to show how easy it is, this video is like 4 mins long.. Obviously the rears are even easier since the back is nearly fully exposed.


Ford Ranger wheel stud replace



Last edited on Fri Nov 24th, 2017 08:02 pm by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Fri Nov 24th, 2017 06:32 am
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MaDMaXX

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Dang, that video errors, can you paste the link too?



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