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Truck didn't start tonight...arg. Help       #: 444
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sat Jan 6th, 2018 01:25 am
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Uh huh, ok, lol. ;)



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 Posted: Sat Jan 6th, 2018 03:35 am
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Got the OEM fuel pump today. Looks good. It's missing a little black rubber thing on the bottom. I found one in the box so it looks like it just fell off but it appears those are not needed other than keeping it from plastic/plastic touching when the pump is in the tank. Worst case scenario I just take off one of them from the pump I pull and put it on the new one.

I did check all fuses. It appears that the only fuse for the fuel pump on a 2.3L is number 23 which is a 20amp mini fuse. Then the relay is 46a under the hood. I did check all fuses but will check again. I have a little prong tool that you touch to each fuse and if it's good the little led on the tool lights up green.

I will put a known working fuse that I pulled and put that in 46a in the morning.

I did check the inertia switch. I went to push the red button down and it was already depressed. Is this something that I can check for functionality or do these go bad after some time? IE: How does one trip it to then depress the plunger? I don't think that is a problem only because I was able to move the truck and in all the years I have driven not once have I ever had to depress the button for it to trip.

I started spraying down the rear 4 bed bolts. I can't seem to see/find them for the two front loner bolts. I am going to try and remove the bed liner tomorrow. Hopefully it just pulls/slides out after I remove the 4 tie downs on the sides. Then I can at least spray the tops of the bolts. They didn't look as bad as some of the pictures I've seen but we'll see when I go to take them out. I think an impact with the t55 bit will be best since when I sometimes use a breaker bar bolts just sheer off which I am really hoping does not happen.

Appreciate all the help!
More updates will follow.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Jan 6th, 2018 03:41 am
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Good luck :) - There is a video out there on how to test for all this stuff, and they found out it was the inertia switch having gone faulty - they included how to test it all.


*EDIT* Here ya go 





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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 02:45 am
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Nice day today so I was able to remove my tonneau cover and all the associated hardware. Removed the upper bed protector things, and then man handled the damn bed liner. That was a PITA removing for sure. Tailgate is off no problem.

I was able to remove the 4 rear bolts without that much trouble. Attempted the front two and they are on pretty good. Fearing that my snapon t55 bit was starting to round I stopped. I will be spraying the bolts down with Kroil for the next couple days morning/mid/night until I get a new snapon t55 bit and will attempt to remove them. I can't stand torx bolts. They always strip for some reason.

I think once I get those two off then it will be better. I know the far right upper bolt shouldn't be as bad since I can spray it from the top and bottom. The far right one just the top. Plus out of all the bolts of course these two are slightly more rusty where the other two looked new still.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2018 12:28 pm
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Murphy's law in play with those bolts. It just makes sense that the two bolts that are the hardest to get to will be coated with more rust than the others.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:37 am
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Got the new snapon t55 bit today. Attempted to remove front most two longer bolts. SUCCESS!! I guess spraying the bolts down 3 times a day with Kroil helped... They were still a little hard but all done by hand with a 3/8 ratchet. I am going to clean up the threads then put ant seize on them before I put them back on. Should make going back in and removal if I have to do it later much much easier.

Now to move the bed off or back in the morning and change the fuel pump. It's a shame I couldn't do it today while it was 60 degrees but it's going to be 40 tomorrow, so I'll take that over 10 degrees. Getting a little bit closer.

I also checked fuel pressure and tried to crank it. Reads zero. Checked the relay with a test light and I did get 12v at the relay.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 06:51 am
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Funny you should mention the T55, i just needed one today, my seats are held in with them :(

I will say that T55 feels a little loose in them, i've heard someone mention T55+ is a size and that's what it should be, maybe that's why you had issues?



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 01:22 pm
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I've never removed bed bolts, but I have the seat bolts on several occasions. I guarantee the T55 fits quite sloppily in the seat bolts, but it is the closet thing I could get to fit.  T55+?  Hadn't heard of it, but here is what I found on the web:

What is a Torx Plus bit?
The official generic name, standardized by the International Organization for Standardization as ISO 10664, is hexalobular internal. This is sometimes abbreviated in databases and catalogs as 6lobe (starting with numeral, 6, not a capital letter, G). Torx Plus is an improved head profile.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:06 pm
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Take a wide rubber band and lay it over the seat bolt. Then use your T55 pushing through the rubber band and you will have a snug fit.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:12 pm
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@Tony: I have done that, and it does work a charm (also on Phillips bits)! I just think that Torx bits should fit better to begin with though.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:28 pm
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T+ has been around for a few years now, I deal with them on tool holders and have a chart at work. Logging in RDP right now to post it. If I can find it LOL.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:34 pm
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OK couldn't find it but snagged a similar one on line.

It doesn't show the advantages but you can get a lot more torque on the bolt with a torx plus that regular.

I discovered this by stripping out a few T+ screws on tool holders at work. Did some research.

A Torx bit will fit in a Torx Plus screw but it will never feel right. A Torx plus bit will not fit in a regular Torx screw.




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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 02:52 pm
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I'm pretty much an idiot, and even I can see the benefits of the T Plus. Of course, if the regular Torx just fit the screw head better, it would have been nice. Thanks for the info Jim!



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 04:42 pm
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Great info Jim.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 05:19 pm
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Yeah useful, might have to use the regular T55 on some seats today, we'll see... :(



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 02:37 am
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Welp.  Getting REALLY close...lol

Attempted to pull the bed off with the help of my wife.  She's about 110lbs with wet cloths... needless to say she was not able to lift her side..lol  I'm going to ask my neighbor for help.

I did however lift it up and back so I can get to the fuel pump.  While I am there I'm changing the fuel filter as well and hopefully he can coat the frame.  This will all be easier once the bed is off and on the side of the house..lol

I did notice in the rear however there is some rot/rust near the /on the spare tire well..  See attached pictures.

How concerned do I need to be about this?  The rest of the frame seems fine.  The front of the bed also has rust.  Huge concern?

The truck is 17 years old so I'm almost positive it will rust out before anything but, while   is off this weekend I might as well prep and paint it with Chasis Saver.

 

See attached pictures.

 















 

Getting closer!  Hope to have the new pump installed in the morning.  Already removed all connections being very careful of the clips and elbows.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 02:41 am
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Hmm, i'll be honest, that rust doesn't look too good.

You're going to need to take a wire brush to the worst looking areas, with the aim of seeing how much metal you have left.

I'm not talking a drill attachment here, though if you're careful you can use one, but you need to get off anything that's loose, you might find you can paint it and be good, you might find you've lost so much metal already, that you need plates welding in.

Good luck! :)



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 12:36 pm
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I read a post somewhere that a guy bought a new spare tire well and installed it. Don't recall if OEM or aftermarket. The spare tire well isn't part of the structure that makes things rigid, so I would clean it up good and use whatever prep and coating to stop/slow down the rust. You have a Ranger, and Ford didn't see fit to actually PAINT anything that didn't show (pisses me off).



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 11:07 pm
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Yeah, only good thing about the tyre well is it acts like a sacrificial rust guard :)



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 Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2018 11:10 pm
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LMAO  Yeah, seems that way! :)



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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 02:55 am
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Okey dokey, so had my neighbor help me lift the bed and move it to the side of the driveway.  Upon closer inspection with the frame it appears much better than what I thought after seeing the tire well.  The tirewell is the worst part.  The rest of the frame is solid, no holes or anything like that.  I think it helped that I've been panting it each year..

 

I did pick up a gallon of this from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2VZA8C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61

Since the bed is off it's SUPER easy to access everything back there.  Hell had I known I was going to be doing all this I would have waited to do the rear sway bar.  I'm going to clean everything up and then use that stuff above to coat the frame.  I know I will have a lot left over so I am going to do the bottom of the bed.  Might as well since it's off the truck then I don't have to worry about that.

I got the oil fuel pump out and putting the new on in tomorrow when I get home from work.  Should be close to 60' F.  I did drain about 5 gallons of fuel out and put it in my race container just so it was easier pulling the pump out and not having to worry about getting fuel everywhere.

I am also going to replace the fuel filler tube and hose.  I found them here:
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/2001-2002-2003-ford-ranger-fuel-filler-neck-flair-bed-ex-cab-3L5Z9034e/

Mine looks rusted and the hose feels almost dry rotted... I'd rather not piss with this again and while everything is off why not...  I wish I could find the smaller line with the quick fitting but that doesn't appear to be anywhere.


Pics for reference.












Will update in the morning.  Fingers crossed.

-Nigel



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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 04:28 am
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Ahh, good news :) Yeah, looks like a lot of rust areas, mostly surface, that's way better than first looks.

Seriously, so much more can be seen and accessed now, absolutely do everything while the lid is off! :)


I hope that coatings high solids content is zinc - either way, once you're done with it, any uncoated areas, or even ones you've painted, spray liberally with Fluid Film.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 11:59 am
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I'm thinking I may do this to mine this spring (minus the fuel pump). Pull the bed and give everything a thorough cleaning and coating. I could also check the bed floor that way.

Nigel, you need to toss some glamour pics into your gallery so Jim can grab one for the rotation on the front page. I noticed your truck isn't in there. :)



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 Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2018 12:49 pm
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Nigel, contact Filler Neck Supply they sell different size hoses in bulk by the inch. When I replaced the filler neck on my 2000 I got the hoses from them also & replaced the filler neck & hoses all the same time. The smaller one which IIRC is the vent I think is 3/4". I just got some of the 3/4" filler neck vent hose from them for my wife's Explorer Sport.
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/3-4-or-19mm-diameter 

The last time I had the bed off my Ranger I coated the frame from the back of the cab to the rear of the frame, I used Master series chassis black.I also used the silver then the chassis black on my Mustang.
http://www.masterseriesct.com/home.html



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Is that like POR15?

Looks like it is just about the same price isn't POR15 like the industry standard for frame restoration and preservation?

Last edited on Sat Jan 20th, 2018 01:30 pm by JAMMAN



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