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Any AC gurus here?       #: 1318
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 08:49 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Just evacuated, oiled and charged the latest ranger with a professional grade machine to the specs on the tag under the hood.

Gets cold, but still cycles.

Have proved it is the low pressure switch by shorting it out, stays on.

When pump kicks on at idle, high pressure goes to 100PSI low pressure starts dropping. When the low pressure gets to 25 the clutch kicks out until the low pressure gets to about 35 where it kicks back on again. With the switch shorted out the clutch stays on, the high pressure goes just barely over 100 and the low pressure stabilizes at about 20PSI.

What is that low pressure supposed to be at, because if it is supposed to be below 25 then the switch is bad. If it is supposed to stay higher than 25 then something else is wrong.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 08:58 pm
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black06xlt
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 I ran into this on a peterbilt one time and found the cycling switch was bad



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
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1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 09:00 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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 I meant 200. I need to pay attention.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 10:17 pm
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410customs

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 Did you change the orifice tube? When they get clogged it can cause this.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 10:27 pm
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JAMMAN

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 A clogged orifice tube would probably build too much high pressure wouldn't it?

I'm going to hook it back up tomorrow, the guy that helped me is a GM guy and could care less about Fords. I think it is wrong and under charged, the static pressure was below ambient temperature and for how hot it was in the shop the running high should have been at least 225 and it barely saw 200. I think he has it under charged.

The low did seem too low but I thought he knew what he was doing and did not look at a chart before I had him hook it up.

I know how to use our fancy machine too now.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 01:59 am
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black06xlt
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 I believe your machine is a robinaire? You should just have to type in the weight of freon needed hit start and walk away. It should pull vacuum and do a leak test before it starts to charge. But yes a clogged orifice tube or even a clogged dryer will cause that. Even being a gm guy a/c systems pretty much work the same with the same principles



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
2000 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 5 speed
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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 01:42 pm
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410customs

Idahome


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 He didn't even look at the label?
The sticker is how you know how much oil and refrigerant to install and they are always pretty damn close

Indeed sounds under charged.
If you were to bypass the low pressure switch and run the AC I bet the canister will freeze up = undercharged.
Add some more R134 and see if it stops cycling.

My fancy machine was like $149 on Amazon works great (pump and gauges)
I always follow the stickers and it always works.
I could not believe the condition of the orrofice tubes in some of my trucks, so much crap on them I was amazed it was working at all prior to my re-do

Our Excursion takes 68 oz of R134 or some crap....my van was similar...expensive!!



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