New Audio On The Way !
Joined: Fri Dec 22nd, 2017
Name: Grev B
Occupation: Quality Assurance Engineer
Interests: Rangers, Photography, Metal Bending
Reputation Points: 2694
What about this one on Ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Ranger-Fog-Light-Wiring-Harness-1998-1999-2000/160492872240?hash=item255e1ee230:g:YPwAAOxyA4ZRSaUT&vxp=mtr Is it like this? How did Ford tap into the battery without it actually bolting to the battery cable? Oh yeah is there any brackets that the actual fog light assemblies bolt to that I need on the oem fascia? My Dakota actually screws into the fiberglass fascia with speed nuts.
First the e-Bay Cable - I didnt see any install Instructions, so I can't say if it will work with a Ford OEM Fog Switch, but they reference the fact that it by passes the Fog Light Over-Ride, so I am thinking it is more of a direct wiring job.
I believe The Buggman's Harness is similar, PM him, get some pictures, ask to get a picture of the Harness stretched out !
Also ask for some instructions.
Buggman is easy to get along with, I have a feeling he will help you out and be there if something happens, and replace any harness that causes problems.
Again get in touch through PM or on FaceBook.
Ford connects to the Battery through the main relay panel in the Engine Bay. The wiring, IMHO, get lost in all the relays and switches, etc. ! That is why I suggested a separate harness, it will be a direct wire job not trying to locate wiring inside of the vehicle. The one you picked MIGHT be more direct but without instructions I can't tell one way or the other. The OEM Switch, if still connected in some way to the Truck's wiring, may bring in the power, but may not. You may need to connect a wire to the positive side of the battery that will bing power to the relay in the harness. AND there is no separate ground wire to the battery... !
One big problem with After-Market Harnesses... they do not know what amount of amperage will be require by your lights, what size bulb you may have changed out from the OEM Lights. Doesn't sound like much of a problem but if your lights can't get the necessary current they need the lights will burn with less light, disappointing, and burn up earlier because when the lights are trying to pull the needed current through the too small wire then they heat up and burn out... !
When you PM Buggman, ask all of your questions, he is selling the Harness so I believe he will know the answers and understand you situation.
I can't answer anymore completely, other than yes to the brackets... and that's not what you need. Find a site like LMC, get the exploded views and see what you have and what you don't; that's about the only way I would do it too !
If you are like me, I like a more direct route to wiring, I run all after-market switches and my own wiring and components. Then I know all of the Wire Lugs are crimped and the size of the wire, the fuses, and the relay(s), are all the best size for the amperage in the circuit + a safety factor. I build all of my harnesses because I like things run tight, except for working loops (strain relief) by each component. Also, I like the ground wires to run back to the battery area, either to the battery's negative terminal or to a ground Stud or Panel that is connected to the battery.
As I have said before grounds will be the main problem in any mobile Circuit, rust and corrosion, rubber mounts, bad bolts, all add up to bad ground paths.
Good Luck on your project, take your time, make sure things are done right the first time.
One more thing, to sum it up. Talk to The Buggman before going any further.
Sorry to run off at the mouth !
Last edited on Fri Mar 30th, 2018 03:29 pm by Scrambler82
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK; now Mike Welding and Fabrication.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !