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The "original" problem       #: 1331
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 Posted: Wed Oct 17th, 2018 08:40 pm
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JAMMAN

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While I'm in there might as well make it 5.0 worthy, ya think?



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 04:51 pm
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VelociRanger
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That is always the solution! V8!!



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.
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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 06:56 pm
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JAMMAN

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That was the plan before I bought it, I might as well plumb for the return line and put a better pump in there. I'm using a 97 motor.



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:22 pm
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VelociRanger
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Yeah I remember. I just get excited when people are doing builds who know what they're doing so i can follow along and plan for mine. I'm not gonna act like I have any idea what most of this technical stuff means, but I enjoy reading and soaking up information like a sponge. Unfortunately, in Texas the year of the vehicle the swap is coming from must be the same year (in my case a 2008) or newer as the vehicle the engine is going in, so I'm stuck with either the 4.6 or the Coyote 5.0 unless I snatch up this first gen parked under an old man's tree in town which means Lola (my current truck) is staying a 2.3l

Last edited on Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:23 pm by VelociRanger



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.
2008 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, basically stock
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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:24 pm
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Bird76Mojo
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VelociRanger wrote:
Unfortunately, in Texas the year of the vehicle the swap is coming from must be the same year (in my case a 2008) or newer as the vehicle the engine is going in


How would they know any different?



GB :)

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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:30 pm
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VelociRanger
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I assume the emission systems from the newer engine change? If I can find the link I'll look again but I believe that's what it is because whatever emission control systems my 2.3l has the new engine must have as well, as well as an OBD2 scan reading and visual inspection of parts.

Last edited on Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:30 pm by VelociRanger



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.
2008 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, basically stock
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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:32 pm
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Bird76Mojo
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There has to be a way around it, or a limiting year for the vehicle being built, because I've seen a TON of street legal V8 Rangers for sale in Texas that had carbed 302's but the trucks originally had fuel injected engines...

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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:37 pm
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VelociRanger
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Hmm, interesting. I'll have to look into it more then. Sorry JAMMAN for stealing your thread for a second!



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.
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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 03:44 am
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Eddie Money
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VelociRanger wrote:
I assume the emission systems from the newer engine change? If I can find the link I'll look again but I believe that's what it is because whatever emission control systems my 2.3l has the new engine must have as well, as well as an OBD2 scan reading and visual inspection of parts.
I've read quite a few V8 swap threads. Once you get past the unhelpful posters that suggest, license it where they dont need emissions there are a few with knowledge and first hand experience. The majority of states are not opposed to us swapping a more environmentally friendly and more efficient engine. Most require an engineer to go over your build. They are mostly looking for bad swaps where smog has been deleted or the vehicle is unsafe. Most state that If you do a quality job and good equipment  with all the proper smog you are good. Its recommended to speak with the engineer before so you build it to their satisfaction. The donor engine should have all the smog gear from the vehicle it came from or if it's a crate engine, all the smog for the vehicle it was intended for. It's either 20 or 30 years for the smog cutoff. Meaning if you want to avoid the engineer and swap anything you want you'll need to wait till you ranger is 20-30 years old.

It sure would be nice to have someone who LEGALLY swapped a V8 and lives where emissions are required would walk us through and demystify the process.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 10:43 am
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JAMMAN

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Eddie Money wrote:
It sure would be nice to have someone who LEGALLY swapped a V8 and lives where emissions are required would walk us through and demystify the process.
There has to be a point where you know you are not damaging the environment by making one vehicle put out twice the emissions it should. I isn't like 10's of millions of people are going to swap their motors just to say **** the environment it would be way too costly.

Legal lines with vehicles I think depends on the stupidity of the driver. I see trucks and cars every day that are too high, too low, too loud or the tires stick too far beyond the fenders. I'm sure there are many way beyond the "legal" horsepower limit.

If you aren't sliding sideways on a public street or flexing on a slide in a playground where kids are or generally doing things that are really "dangerous" the enforcement will leave you alone.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 01:28 pm
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410customs

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I lived in Colorado, Denver metro area AND California
My conversions are legal because:
Engine comes from same year or newer vehicle
I retain ALL emissions equipment for the new engine, no corners cut here. Even the canister purge solenoid and fuel tank pressure sensor are used. They can talk to the PCM and see all emissions equipment in place and it passes a visual inspection. The only thing I delete is the secondary cat converters and the referee (engineer) passes. The secondary cats are only required federally not for state emissions.

Now CO and CA have the most stringent emissions testing in the country (CO Metro area has adopted CA style emissions)
I have built 6ea 5.0L Ranger based trucks that have passed emissions in CO, they get a special certification paperwork that goes with the truck allowing you to complete the simple dyno/tailpipe sniffer test without seeing a referee again. V6 conversions (Like 2.5L to 4.0L) require nothing because they pass visual and dyno tests no referee needed as long as the PCM is happy and they can talk to it)

Now the last year of the 5.0 was 2001. So in CO or CA the referee is not going to sign off on this conversion...no way no how. If you own a 2002-2011 Ranger and want a 5.0 you will have to check with your local emissions referee/engineer I KNOW CA and CO will not sign off on this.
You would have to use a later model drivetrain, same year as the truck or newer and retain all the emissions equipment. They are really cracking down on this, which is silly

I have emissions papers for my Bronco II that show the tailpipe emissions as a 2.9L, then as a 4.0 and now as a 5.0L. The tailpipe emissions is less then half now what it was with the 2.9L...the 5.0L fuel injected engine with all the emissions stuff is WAY MORE efficient then the original 1988 2.9L even with two extra cylinders and 100+ more horsepower.
In SOME STATES this may be acceptable to them, meaning if you have a 2008 Ranger lets say with the SOHC 4.0L and you want a 5.0 as long as you retain the EVAP system for the fuel tank, the 02 sensors and cat converters, and the 5.0L PCM is happy under the hood and able to talk to the OBCII scanner then they may allow the conversion.
No way would a carbed engine pass in place of an EFI engine in emissions counties..... not places that do OBDII and tailpipe sniffer tests.
Now I live in Idaho which has no emissions testing!! WOOHOOOO!! However I still do conversions the same way. I am a big fan of complete conversions, no tuning needed a complete factory style conversion retaining all emissions equipment. That way somebody from CA or WA or wherever can still come buy one of my builds.

The requirements for your area and what can be done with your truck are up to the decisions of a handful of people, the referee is who you want to talk to. A 5.0 conversion may be 100% legal in your area, you just need to make the time to go talk to them. The referee in CO and I became friends of a sort, he would see me coming and be like "oh boy lets see what you brought me this time, he was a car nut so he liked our creations, a breath of fresh air compared to some of the hokie stuff people try to get him to sign off on.....

To do emissions legal conversions into 2002+ Rangers I am not afraid of using a 4.6, the new DOHC 5.0, or ecoboost, BT4 diesel or whatever. If you have the entire donor vehicle to work from, and permissions/list of requirements from the emissions ref, then it can be done.......time and $$$$ time and $$$$

Last edited on Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 01:33 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 02:04 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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Easier to move LOL.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 02:44 pm
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Eddie Money
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410customs wrote:
I lived in Colorado, Denver metro area AND California
My conversions are legal because:
Engine comes from same year or newer vehicle
I retain ALL emissions equipment for the new engine, no corners cut here. Even the canister purge solenoid and fuel tank pressure sensor are used. They can talk to the PCM and see all emissions equipment in place and it passes a visual inspection. The only thing I delete is the secondary cat converters and the referee (engineer) passes. The secondary cats are only required federally not for state emissions.

Now CO and CA have the most stringent emissions testing in the country (CO Metro area has adopted CA style emissions)
I have built 6ea 5.0L Ranger based trucks that have passed emissions in CO, they get a special certification paperwork that goes with the truck allowing you to complete the simple dyno/tailpipe sniffer test without seeing a referee again. V6 conversions (Like 2.5L to 4.0L) require nothing because they pass visual and dyno tests no referee needed as long as the PCM is happy and they can talk to it)

Now the last year of the 5.0 was 2001. So in CO or CA the referee is not going to sign off on this conversion...no way no how. If you own a 2002-2011 Ranger and want a 5.0 you will have to check with your local emissions referee/engineer I KNOW CA and CO will not sign off on this.
You would have to use a later model drivetrain, same year as the truck or newer and retain all the emissions equipment. They are really cracking down on this, which is silly

I have emissions papers for my Bronco II that show the tailpipe emissions as a 2.9L, then as a 4.0 and now as a 5.0L. The tailpipe emissions is less then half now what it was with the 2.9L...the 5.0L fuel injected engine with all the emissions stuff is WAY MORE efficient then the original 1988 2.9L even with two extra cylinders and 100+ more horsepower.
In SOME STATES this may be acceptable to them, meaning if you have a 2008 Ranger lets say with the SOHC 4.0L and you want a 5.0 as long as you retain the EVAP system for the fuel tank, the 02 sensors and cat converters, and the 5.0L PCM is happy under the hood and able to talk to the OBCII scanner then they may allow the conversion.
No way would a carbed engine pass in place of an EFI engine in emissions counties..... not places that do OBDII and tailpipe sniffer tests.
Now I live in Idaho which has no emissions testing!! WOOHOOOO!! However I still do conversions the same way. I am a big fan of complete conversions, no tuning needed a complete factory style conversion retaining all emissions equipment. That way somebody from CA or WA or wherever can still come buy one of my builds.

The requirements for your area and what can be done with your truck are up to the decisions of a handful of people, the referee is who you want to talk to. A 5.0 conversion may be 100% legal in your area, you just need to make the time to go talk to them. The referee in CO and I became friends of a sort, he would see me coming and be like "oh boy lets see what you brought me this time, he was a car nut so he liked our creations, a breath of fresh air compared to some of the hokie stuff people try to get him to sign off on.....

To do emissions legal conversions into 2002+ Rangers I am not afraid of using a 4.6, the new DOHC 5.0, or ecoboost, BT4 diesel or whatever. If you have the entire donor vehicle to work from, and permissions/list of requirements from the emissions ref, then it can be done.......time and $$$$ time and $$$$

Sorry for hijacking the thread momentarily.  This was what I meant by legally. Lots of us live where emissions are required and we just want our swap to be hassle free without registering at a relatives. By legal I mean you go through a smog check just the same as before the swap. 

Thank you 410customs



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2007 Sport 4door 4x4 4.0L SOHC V6 Ranger
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30th, 2019 11:13 am
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JAMMAN

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Weather is better, back on this.

I installed a sensor on the fuel rail via schrader adapter and an oil pressure sending unit. If anyone does this get a 2 wire unit the fuel rail is not grounded well enough to supply negative to the sensor I had to clamp a ground wire on it to get it to work.

Anyhow I drove it enough so it started cutting out again, it maintains VERY GOOD fuel pressure and the voltage going to the pump after the inertia switch is constant.

If all the gauges were cutting out I would think ignition switch. The tach cuts out completely when it "bucks". Normally I would think cam sensor or crank sensor but being a 3.0 those are the first two things I replaced when I bought it last year.


It is getting a 5.0 but again this is an incredibly powerful 3.0 with less than 140,000 miles and I want to sell it as a great motor. I really can't until I get it running 100% I'm that type of guy.

Here's a pic of the setup. Oil pressure is actually fuel rail pressure and voltage is after the inertia switch. If the V had dropped the gauge would have flatlined.




____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Tue Apr 30th, 2019 04:11 pm
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Check the fuse box under the hood. I had a 91 ranger that did that. Almost all the terminals in the fuse box were corroded. Swapped in a junk yard box and it fixed it



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
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2000 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 5 speed
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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 12:58 pm
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JAMMAN

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The nightmare is almost over. After wrestling with one of my other trucks I felt the "fight or flight" on the little green single cab 4wd know as Jalapeno, I would either have to start driving it or sell it.

I checked the PDC box as Black06 had suggested, partial disassembly showed the  wires on the bottom and connectors looked like new.

I started checking other things, I pulled the knee panel and steel reinforcement from under the dash and started shaking wires up and down the steering column, whacking the ignition switch and the switch box farther down.

First the list of things I swapped or replaced or tested with no effect:

coil pack
cam synch assembly
crank sensor. Twice. since the problem code wise was pointing there.
drove around for weeks with fuel pressure monitor and fuel pump power feed monitor gauges hooked up.
reset DTC codes several times
soaked the motor underneath with water from a pressure washer in an attempt to reveal the short
traced wires from the crank sensor to the plug on the ECU, disconnected the ECU so I could get on the other side of the connector to check 
bought extended license for forscan to see if I could unlock any hidden diagnostic procedures.
drove countless miles, truck stalling to the point my back hurt being so tense on the brake, gas and key at the same time. Just for testing, I have a daily driver but still intense.

Was starting to doubt myself as a mechanic and my ability to diagnose.

Next steps were going to be:
replace cam synch with an OEM ford product
swap ECU with another 3.0 auto for testing.
put passenger seat back in and drive around with my son watching the sensor voltages on forscan (might have revealed the problem or got me close)

I had done this before but I got under the hood and started shaking wires again (same session as under dash) but the motor was colder this time no fear of getting burnt.
When I put my hand on the cam synch plug and pulled it to the right, motor stalls. Tried it again, stalls. There is something wrong with the plug for the cam synch which lines up with every single problem this truck has had since I bought it.

Just wow finally a break.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 07:56 pm
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JAMMAN

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And I just happened to have a plug for that in the back on an old harness.

4.0 must fit the same sensor this is an expo 4.0 plug

Attachment: 15596781385164743057397734505161.jpg (Downloaded 63 times)



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 01:20 pm
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410customs

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that plug is used on injectors as well

I like this:

"Was starting to doubt myself as a mechanic and my ability to diagnose."

Because it is truth, how many nights tossing and turning trying to sort things out. Winning these battles is what makes us good mechanics. Patience is a virtue!
There has only been 1 project I have ever had to give up on and lost the battle. That was a 98 Eddie bauer known around here as "the eddie"
She was so clean, the body was awesome but needed an engine (5.0 truck). So I installed an engine I had lying around and it was mixing oil and water? So I fixed the oil cooler, not it. So I replaced the heads and head gaskets. My install failed. So I yanked the heads and tried again...still mixing. So I pulled the engine and installed another from my old 96, finally it was running perfectly! Buttoned her all up and took test drive! 1 mile from the shop the trans lost all forward gears.
I then pulled the engine, front clip, seats, etc and crushed that SOB
That was one fun project, about $1000 down a hole



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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 01:50 pm
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JAMMAN

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410customs wrote:
 about $1000 down a hole
Thanks brother, I can relate to the lost money also.. big time.

I did give up once also, but it was a different circumstance. I had a crown vic that would just stall for no reason. Might not start for hours and when the tow truck would be there stretching out the winch... it would start.

Drove me nuts then 2 days before Christmas I was visiting some ex relatives in northern Michigan. Anyone who has seen it on a map will guess the weather. It died, I had to borrow a car to get home. Died in a bad spot too.

I gave up and had it towed to a shop I knew was expensive but I had more money than time at that point in my life.

They found a pinched wire somewhere under the front fender on the way to the fuel pump and fixed it. Hats off to them on the diagnosis but it is the only time I have ever had someone else work on a problem I could not find.

If no rain tonight I'll replace the plug on the jalapeno and move on to the stack of mods that has been waiting in my garage for most of a year now.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 05:32 pm
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I had a guy come in with a Triumph TR6 - the car kept dying on him and wouldn't start - just blew fuses.

Several garages had had a go at it but couldn't find the problem.

He left it with me for a few days and I went through that car from end to end, checked all the wires for continuity and for shorting out.

The thing started for me every time, I just could not replicate the fault.

He turns up to collect the car and I jokingly said "I bet it won't start for you", it didn't and blew the fuse!

Long story short, he had had it restored and the clowns had trapped the fuel pump live feed under the seat runner - only the owner was heavy enough to cause the wire to short out....



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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 06:42 pm
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JAMMAN

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Nice! "If you want your car to run right lose weight"



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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 10:07 pm
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Mike69

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JAMMAN wrote:
I found a huge shortcut... remove the cruise control first. LOL why didn't I think of that before.


Jim, when I replaced the blower resister I got one with the resister & wiring pigtail also because mine looked like yours all rusted up, & I pulled the cruise box under the hood to do mine.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 5th, 2019 11:56 pm
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JAMMAN

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Groovy Mike, seems to be the way to do it!

OK guys the verdict is in. I replaced the pigtail on the cam synch, wiggled it around, did not stall this time.

It smoothed right out, doesn't stall,it is a totally different truck. Went from being worth 800 to about 2500 in 30 minutes LOL.

OK techies, figure this out. A couple of you that have been following knew this truck shifted HARD, so hard it would chirp the tires when it shifted. Would bang big time up and down shifting, I was going to replace the TC solenoid thinking it was bad.

The cam sensor plug completely cured the hard shifting.  ?  The signal from the cam synch must have something to do with the auto trans shifting. Didn't see that coming.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Thu Jun 6th, 2019 03:15 am
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sheltonfilms
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JAMMAN wrote:
Groovy Mike, seems to be the way to do it!

OK guys the verdict is in. I replaced the pigtail on the cam synch, wiggled it around, did not stall this time.

It smoothed right out, doesn't stall,it is a totally different truck. Went from being worth 800 to about 2500 in 30 minutes LOL.

OK techies, figure this out. A couple of you that have been following knew this truck shifted HARD, so hard it would chirp the tires when it shifted. Would bang big time up and down shifting, I was going to replace the TC solenoid thinking it was bad.

The cam sensor plug completely cured the hard shifting.  ?  The signal from the cam synch must have something to do with the auto trans shifting. Didn't see that coming.

The power feed wire from the PCM to the cam sync is spliced to the transmission temp sensor and the turbine shaft speed sensor. Could have intermittently shorted and pulled the voltage down.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 7th, 2019 10:45 am
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JAMMAN

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Was a fluke. The next morning it shifted hard again. The stalling and cutting out is gone but the shifting started back up.

The trip that the trans actually worked right... when I put it in to gear it acted like it was fighting me... like the parking brake was on. I even checked to see if I had accidentally hit the parking brake since I never use it. I tried reverse, forward both it was locked. I pressed on the gas and forced it... that was the one trip it shifted right. It was right after I spliced the cam synch pigtail on.

So either I have an internal trans problem or that feed wire got temporarily reconnected while I was messing with the wires.

The trans problem isn't an intermittent problem it is all the time except for that ONE trip around the block where it shifted as a normal automatic would.



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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