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Front end parts replacement       #: 706
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 07:50 pm
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JAMMAN

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OK Guys (and the one gal so far) I'm heading in to something I have never done on a torsion bar ranger. I'm replacing all 4 ball joints, 2 tie rod ends and the wheel bearings/hub.

No stranger to front ends but I USUALLY buy an entire upper control arm with the ball joint in it. This time due to that unusual adjustment thingy on the right side I want to just press the ball joints in. We have ample equipment at where I work to do this.

Problems/concerns/ thoughts from people who have actually done it on a torsion bar ranger?

I'm looking forward to it but if there is any strange thing I should know before hopping in to it please do tell.



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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 08:52 pm
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Factory upper ball joints are not meant to be serviced separately. If you still have Ford uppers, you can either get another set of complete factory style upper arms or get aftermarket arms with replaceable ball joints, often equipped with grease fittings as well.

You can either get another ball joint carrier for the 2-piece RH control arm or replace the assembly with a one piece RH arm (mirror image of the left arm). Ford switched production over to one piece arms on both sides and you can do the same.

If your truck still has the original alignment plates, you will need to substitute a set of adjustment cams.

Last edited on Sat Mar 17th, 2018 08:58 pm by V8 Level II



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 Posted: Sat Mar 17th, 2018 08:55 pm
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As long as you keep a jack under the lower control arm you should be ok. Thats what I did when I replaced both upper arms on NoPower. I didn't know you could replace just the upper ball joints. The advantage of replaceing the complete uppers is you also get new bushings..



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 Posted: Sun Mar 18th, 2018 08:17 pm
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I do not believe you can change just the upper ball joint.  I think you have buy the arm.
Even though I had that weird right side upper arm on my torsion bar Ranger I replaced both upper arms/ball joints with one piece Moog arms.  I added the camber cam adjustment bolts while I was in there.

Last edited on Sun Mar 18th, 2018 08:18 pm by beater



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 Posted: Mon Mar 26th, 2018 05:32 pm
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JAMMAN

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Parts are in, got wheel bearings, lower ball joints, upper arms with ball joints (went 1 piece) and outer tie rod ends.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 26th, 2018 06:08 pm
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We expect pictures with the progress updates. Not having to press ball joints in and out should certainly ease the amount of work needed to complete the job. The last time I did mine I swear I qualified for a PhD.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 26th, 2018 06:37 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Parts are in, got wheel bearings, lower ball joints, upper arms with ball joints (went 1 piece) and outer tie rod ends.
I believe you'll need a camber kit when switching from the two piece to the single piece UCA.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 26th, 2018 07:02 pm
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JAMMAN

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Is this the ticket? I see like 4 different types, some have one hole some 2.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 26th, 2018 09:10 pm
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Looks like it.



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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2018 09:49 pm
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Heading in to this tonight, tires are about gone, things shaking around pretty bad.

Going to be like a 3 day adventure, doing it at the shop so wife has to pick me up tonight.

I'll get as far as I can tonight, going to kind of wing it not looking at any tutorials.

I did buy the camber kit, I have the bolts and such.

I'm thinking shocks also, no idea what to buy but I'm going to have to think quickly and need to order tonight if doing internet. OR could do prime wife has a membership. Buying local is not an option too expensive.

They only have to last a year or so, I'm wanting a single cab version of this truck with a little better body. I don't have rust but have plenty of dings. Would trade straight up for a single cab version in amazon green. Might sell all my projects and concentrate on the one I really want.

So wish me luck, I will take pics probably a lot of "what not to do's" LOL.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Sun May 6th, 2018 11:21 pm
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Good luck with it. It is a pain in the butt.

I did the upper and lower control arms, sway bar bushings, and camber kit last month. Just as an fyi, leave the camber bolts loose, the lower control arm bolts loose and sway bar loose when you are reattaching the spindle.

Last edited on Mon May 7th, 2018 06:32 pm by Tsquare



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 01:17 am
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Jim, When I did the upper control arms & lower ball joints on my 2000 I had never done this type of work on a 4x4 before. Just take your time & you will be fine. I did one side one weekend, & the other side the next weekend using our spare vehicle to drive in between to work. Also make sure you get an alignment after you are done.



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 02:39 am
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Everything is going well so far, I actually got a little farther than I thought I would tonight. All the bolts are coming right off, a lot of it is because last year I did brakes and rotors, I cleaned all the screws, tapped all the holes and used copper anti seize compound.

Here is the tire condition that the front end caused:



some pics of the boots as I was disassembling. Took calipers off, brackets, took dust shield off (3 bolts with 8mm heads), Loosen top knuckle bolt, hammer it out, hit the top arm upward with a sledge. Got all the cotter pins out which till I was about 17 I thought were Carter pins because that's what my dad called them. He was a democrat.



















Only got to work on it from 6:30 to 8:30 had to fill my vending machines first. That's my 3rd job out of 4.



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 11:37 am
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Jim, it looks like it is coming along good. All your dust boots look just like mine did when I did my ball joints at 105K miles. Both of my rotor dust shields were rusted pretty badly when I took them off. Are you replacing the hub & bearing assemblies because they were loose/noisy or because everything is apart & the mileage on the truck?.



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 01:21 pm
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Because everything is apart and the mileage would be the reason. They seem OK but I can tell they are original.

BUT it looks like someone put a pair of half shafts in there the boots look new and there are stickers on the shaft still. Hope they were decent quality.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
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00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 04:02 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:


Problems/concerns/ thoughts from people who have actually done it on a torsion bar ranger?

I'm looking forward to it but if there is any strange thing I should know before hopping in to it please do tell.


a) The LBJ's can be replaced using a jackstand to support the LCA and a 3# or so hammer. No press required.

b) If for some reason you fully relax a torsion bar, you'll probably be surprised at how little the LCA rotates in the course of doing this when compared against a coil sprung LCA.

c) Good quality and good current condition of the front shocks on these front end really matters; you can see why by looking at the distance between the LCA and that yellow urethane bumper that limits LCA travel. Vehicle on the ground, of course. The distance isn't much at all, so with worn (and maybe cheapo shocks), the LCA will routinely bottom on that bumper and along with a crappier ride, will assure a much higher noise level inside the vehicle.



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 Posted: Mon May 7th, 2018 06:11 pm
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Thanks Bill,

Already bought the press, a good quality one too but since I have it I'll try the hammer method, it has worked for everything else so far. I got quite a bit done during lunch break, I have both "steering knuckles" off now. Both the bearings were acceptable but I have new ones so who cares. Might keep them for projects later up the road.

I have experienced the coil springs so far the torsion bars are a cake walk by comparison. I haven't relaxed them, I am supporting under the LCA as close as I could get to the ball joint. Probably won't get to experience that this run.

I would hate to pay a gob for shocks but I do understand, might have to get out the wallet. Since I'm already in it I don't want to touch it again for a while.



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 12:23 am
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JAMMAN

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Some engineer at Ford decided to run a fuel and brake line after the upper arm was in on the driver side back. Looks good till you try to remove the bolt.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 12:26 am
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Yea they were a PITA to get the factory UCA bolts out & get the new bolts in past those lines.



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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 03:02 am
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I see this now :)



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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 03:46 am
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Well Bill you must be a better hammer swinger than I am LOL the thing would not budge at all even with a sledge. My new press however did bring them right out STILL very tight.



This is my oldest son helping sandblasting:



We got a lot of pieces painted and ready:



Only snapped one bolt off, a small one needed to hold the ABS sensor wire to the knuckle:



I am blessed with having a machine shop at my fingertips:







And a pic of the carnage:



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 01:16 pm
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Jim, it is coming right along, you will be done in no time. When I did the F/E work on my Ranger I broke those bolts for the ABS wire in the knuckle too. When I did the lower ball joints I put a floor jack under the lower control arm & smacked them with a sledge hammer & after a few shots they popped out.



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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 02:13 pm
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I have done so many of these its silly
This was the bread and butter of my shop for a while, front end work on IFS explorers!! HOORAY!! LOL

yes lower ball joint use a hammer..Even the most stubborn ones if you punch that SOB right in the middle it will pop out. Support lower control arm with a JACK STAND for this

The drivers side, dont mess with the hvac lines, fuel lines etc until you remove the big white plastic retainer from the frame, then you can push them over far enough to get the camber bolt out. To get it in and out it rotates as you pull. It helps a great deal to remove the fowardmost bolt first then you can rotate the control arm to get a better angle on the rear bolt to clear the shock tower.

Use good parts, the cheapos will last maybe a season MAYBE. Mevotec TTX lowers are the best you can buy over the counter for the Explorer/Ranger IFS
MAS from Canada made some really nice HD ones but Dorman just bought MAS and I can no longer find them.
Otherwise its AC delco/Raebestos professional grade (gold w blue boots) they hold up okay. No MOOG!!
Motorcraft, spicer is good too. the TTX is the best, they do not make an upper? I have even written them begging for an upper.
ON my own personal trucks I will use the upper control arms that allow replacement of the joint for the next time around

Do not use cheapo wheel bearings, lucky to get 3-4 months from a set of the $40 each Ebay /Amazon bearings.

Stock CV axles / half shafts are best. If it aint broke dont try to fix it, seriously unless the boot is compromised the stock CV axles can go 200k+ miles no issue

LEAVE the upper control arm bushings slightly loose until the job is done, then return the vehicle to ride height on its tires, THEN torque the upper bolts. This is setting the pre load on the control arm bushings, very important. Otherwise you will rip the new bushings.

Looks good so far!
Yes I hate the engineer who decided HVAC lines go right where the control arm bolt wants to be, but its simple if you've done it a few times and know what to expect.



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Mevotec TTX:


AC delco:


This is what I run, but I am having a hard time finding them anymore since Dorman just aquired MAS industries
http://mas-industries.com/premium-rd/

Last edited on Tue May 8th, 2018 02:18 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Tue May 8th, 2018 03:33 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Well Bill you must be a better hammer swinger than I am LOL the thing would not budge at all even with a sledge. My new press however did bring them right out STILL very tight.
Actually, when I did mine I used a 3# (or thereabouts) hammer, supported the LCA on the outer end but as close to the LBJ as possible, whacked it a few times to break it loose, and the rest was history. Installing the new one was a matter of starting it square in the hole, tap it in a bit more, then a jackstand w/a small piece of steel plate was placed under the LBJ and final setting of the LBJ was made using the hammer and pounding on the LCA.

Something else I recall, leaving out the rather protracted conversation at the FEA shop (same owner 30+ years, 4-6 week wait to get in and a holding lot for cars left there for a future appt, this guy has a good rep).........contrary to my guy insisting that the vehicle would have a few driveability quirks unless I took his advice and had him set the camber well toward the most negative end of the range, I insisted that it be slightly negative but fairly close to 0* and that if things weren't right, then it was my mistake and I'd be buying another alignment. I'm still rolling on the alignment done back in 12/16.



____________________
-Bill

04 Ranger FX4 Level II, several mods
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