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8.8 Rear Axle Rebuild
 Moderated by: MaDMaXX, Mike69, NoPower Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2018 12:37 am
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jsoluna
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 No upgrades, per se,  unless you count the Trac-Lok as an upgrade (which I do, since it came factory with open diff).
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 Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2018 12:38 am
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jsoluna
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 Fired it up over the weekend to hear it run.  Love that truck.  Can't wait to get it back on the road, but when I do a job I do it right so I'm not taking any shortcuts.  All new brakes, ujoints, shocks, painting any of the parts that went through electrolysis.
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 Posted: Thu Sep 6th, 2018 04:51 am
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Eddie Money
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 Cant wait to see it all done sounds like its gonna be nice!!



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 Posted: Fri Nov 23rd, 2018 11:28 pm
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jsoluna
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 Back at it everyone....pics to come tomorrow. Starting to set up the ring & pinion.
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 Posted: Fri Nov 23rd, 2018 11:34 pm
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jsoluna
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 First time I've rebuilt one of these, so there a lot of things that are taking me a lot of trial and error....
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 Posted: Fri Nov 23rd, 2018 11:53 pm
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JAMMAN

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 Whatever you do stay away from the hammer :)



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 Posted: Fri Nov 23rd, 2018 11:55 pm
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jsoluna
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 Very good advice.

Went with a small 4oz deadblow instead 😉
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 05:03 pm
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jsoluna
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 All the external work is complete.  Chased threads in axle housing (cover bolts), installed races for pinion bearings, installed axle bearings and seals, pressed on diff carrier bearings.

Attachment: IMG_20181124_124512156.jpg (Downloaded 56 times)

Last edited on Sat Nov 24th, 2018 05:06 pm by jsoluna
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 05:07 pm
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jsoluna
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 Races installed.

Attachment: IMG_20181124_124519953.jpg (Downloaded 52 times)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 05:09 pm
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jsoluna
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 Made a pinion flange holding tool from some scrap.

Attachment: IMG_20181124_124556539~2.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 08:09 pm
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jsoluna
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 Got my first gear pattern witness.

Great heel to toe contact. Set backlash dead on to .008".  Looks like the pattern is sitting high on the tooth though.  Bring pinion further towards ring gear?  What is a good estimate for a starting shim to get the pattern to shift closer to the root?

Attachment: IMG_20181124_153214271.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)

Last edited on Sat Nov 24th, 2018 08:12 pm by jsoluna
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 08:10 pm
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jsoluna
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 And coast side:

Attachment: IMG_20181124_153228167.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 08:33 pm
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jsoluna
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 After looking over tons of images on the internet, it appears that the pattern I have is a lot more pronounced, possibly indicating that the pinion is too close to the ring gear.  My original pattern that I took pics of before I removed the old ring and pinion looked almost identical though.

Attachment: 0_IMG_20181124_163243_639.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 08:35 pm
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jsoluna
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 Coast side from original setup:

Attachment: 0_IMG_20181124_163316_951.jpg (Downloaded 52 times)
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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 09:56 pm
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JAMMAN

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 TO ME only setting up one in my life but being a machinist by trade I think your pinion was too far forward originally and looks great now.

If your lash is set to .008 that means there is room for lube. Are you sure about the .008 it looks like the ring and pinion are almost touching? If it is truly .008 (did you do that by adjusting shims to the right and left of the carrier?) I would leave it where it is.

Need dreaded sled or possibly V8 level2 in here for a second opinion. Maybe 410 has set a few.



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 Posted: Sat Nov 24th, 2018 10:04 pm
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jsoluna
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 Yep, it's dead nuts .008-.0085 checked in four locations.  My first drop in with factory cast shims had it at .011 so I tightened it up a bit (shifted .006 over to the ring gear side) which brought the pattern down ever so slightly from the face and brought backlash in the tight end of the spec. 

The contact pattern is just very pronounced, it shows contact over most of the heel->toe surface.  Most of the indications I have seen of proper contact note a patch of full contact that is smaller.  But again, I am new to this and don't have the intuition or the experience so I'm just using common sense.

Last edited on Sun Nov 25th, 2018 12:48 am by jsoluna
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 01:08 am
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Bird76Mojo
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 New ring and pinion set? Because if so, the brand may play a major part in those witness/contact marks being so elongated. I forget which brand it was, but many Mustang 8.8 owners were having problems with ring/pinions having a major howling noise after correctly setting up the gears. Most believed it was that manufacturer and the cut angles they were using, or worn production machinery.



GB :)
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 01:11 am
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jsoluna
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 They are a Ford Racing 4.10 kit.  I would hope the Ford gears would set up nice 😐
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 01:13 am
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jsoluna
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 My original gears which had a very similar drive and coast pattern, were very quiet (before the contamination of the fluid in the housing)
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 01:04 pm
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jsoluna
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 Moved pinion further towards ring gear.  Brought the pattern down slightly, made backlash a little tight so I opened it up.  

Current setup:
Pinion preload 25in/lbs
Pinion shims .040
Backlash .010

Shows more bias towards heel on drive and toe on coast now, but it is more centered root to face.

Attachment: IMG_20181125_083846558.jpg (Downloaded 47 times)
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 01:05 pm
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jsoluna
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 Coast side:

Attachment: IMG_20181125_083855553.jpg (Downloaded 47 times)
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 Posted: Sun Nov 25th, 2018 04:09 pm
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jsoluna
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 Drive side comparisons on the three different setups.  Keeping backlash in spec was not possible on setup three with the .010 shims that came in the kit.  I'm not tied to setup three anyway, just included it for reference on how the pattern is shifting.  My gut instinct is that setup two is the best of the three.





Last edited on Sun Nov 25th, 2018 04:12 pm by jsoluna
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 Posted: Sat Dec 1st, 2018 04:04 pm
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jsoluna
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 Any input on the patterns?
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 Posted: Sat Dec 1st, 2018 06:58 pm
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JAMMAN

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 From opinion, setup 2 seems more logical.

BUT even though .004 extra might take it out of spec (as in #3) in one of the tests, you have no idea how close to "specs" the ring or pinion were milled/rolled/ground whatever method they used, and you have no idea how close the bore of the pinion shaft area is to your axle shaft bores as far as an intersection point.

The backlash I would place dead last in the importance of the collective criteria.
ALSO once they wear for a while the contact should actually get better (I've noticed this with gears in lathes and presses) but the backlash will suffer slightly.

I don't know how it equates to backlash but I have seen pinion slop where the driveshaft would move about 5 or 6 degrees before engaging fully without any noticeable clunk while driving and coasting.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
"I'm thinking about buying a horse eventually, I'll take half a dozen carts please"
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 Posted: Sat Dec 1st, 2018 11:01 pm
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jsoluna
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 Thanks for the reply!

I can see the logic in your suggestions.  I would like to add also that one of the things I've been going for is to match the factory lapped pattern present on the ring and pinion gears.  My thinking is if you can keep it close to that same contact area in all dimensions and keep backlash as close to spec as possible, then it should provide some longevity.
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