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4r44e Shifting Issues       #: 1109
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 04:40 am
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toadboy
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I have been reading thru the threads here, and I am not finding my issue described.  I have a 99 Ranger with the 4r44e that doesn't seem to downshift?  I'm not even sure if I can manually select 1st gear?  Bear with me, as I am definitely a rookie mechanic:confused: The selector doesn't seem to go into D1.  I can pull out using D2, put the selector in OD, and the truck shifts all the way to overdrive, and it feels great.  I can step down on it and the trans downshifts and accelerates very smoothly.  But when I come to a stop, I have to manually select lower gear.  I replaced the valve body with updated parts/gaskets and I'm still having the issue.  Am I looking at an internal mechanical issue? BTW, the truck has a multitude of electrical issues.  I am running wires and checking connectors but could the lack of downshifting be electrical?  I have no wipers, dash lights, cruise, dome light/dinger, and no power to the 4x4 switch.  Wasn't the GEM.  Ran extra ground from block to firewall.  Fuses all check good. Haven't been able to correct these yet. Any suggestions?

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 Posted: Sun Aug 5th, 2018 09:49 am
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What fuses did you check? Typically when all of that goes out, there is a 40a fuse under the hood that is popped.

Not saying that is your issue but I'd be checking the wiring under the dash near the ign switch and make sure all of your Accessory wires and Ignition wires are seeing 12 volts when running first.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2018 12:47 am
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toadboy
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I've checked the power distribution and interior fuse panel.  I think I may have to pull the seat and drop the steering column to verify the voltages on the connectors. I sometimes wish I was still my grade school height and weight so I could wiggle under the dash/column, but those days are feet and many pounds ago!  I'm sure I'll learn something when I get it done!  Thanks

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 Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2018 02:02 pm
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check your fuses again, something is funky.......You should have power to the cig lighter then you can talk to your computer and see if it found any issues with the trans.



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 Posted: Wed Aug 8th, 2018 12:17 am
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toadboy
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I rechecked the fuses.  I cleared the codes, drove the truck for about 5 miles, re-read the codes.  Only one was P0340, camshaft position sensor A circuit (bank 1 or single sensor).  No voltage to the sensor.  I may have to just run every wire under the dash and hood! This truck runs and shifts great after it gets rolling.  ARGH!!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2018 01:32 am
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toadboy
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Woohooo!  I tore into the dash late last night.  Removed the stereo bezel, unplugged the gem and 4x4 relays.  Started running wires.  4th wire I checked was the main acc into the gem.  PO had apparently been looking to tap into a acc hot wire, and used a wire probe to find one.  The probe had literally cut the wire in half!  I soldered it and shrink wrapped it.  Just for giggles I hooked the ground cable back to the battery, and I heard the door dinger and the dome light returned.  Crazy luck.  4x4 switch worked, the wipers ran, and I had no warning lights.  I drove the truck 50-60 miles to town and back.  Still don't have horn or CC, but I suspect the connector in the steering column.  To be determined.  The truck will not physically go into drive 1.  I take off in d2, and then place selector in OD.  Once rolling the trans shifts flawlessly.  Could the cable be out of adjustment?  Only code remains the cam sensor, which I will replace soon.  I actually can hear the 4x4 shift motor work.  I won't be able to really verify the 4x4 until I have D1.  D2 is just ok for flat terrain.  I'll keep this post updated as I find other fixes!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2018 03:11 am
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If you look under your steering column and follow the "shift tube" to the actuator lever, there are 2 screws that have torx heads holding the lever on. They are notorious for backing out, I have had to tighten them on 2 rangers I owned. One of them got so bad it wouldn't go into park.

The shift tube bushings can be extremely worn also, most people replace the entire tube assembly because it is cheap and saves time. I almost did one then noticed the loose bolts which made it drivable.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 10th, 2018 05:28 am
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toadboy
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Thanks Jamman! I was wondering where to start?  I have been thinking about the shift thing?  Is there something internal (one way clutch or something) that would stop the downshift from working correctly (automatically)?  The trans works great except it doesn't find 1st when its time to take off from a start.  I'll verify the tube bolts and get back to this post

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