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V-6 engine tech       #: 960
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2018 05:11 pm
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MelRaymond
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I am new to the forum and didn't think I would be needing a hand this soon, but, here goes. 

I have a 1998 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4X4, 4.0 w/manual trans with about 198K miles.  I have only had it a month or so and so far it has run well, but recently, whether cold or hot, when I start the engine, it runs for a few seconds and then the check engine light flashes on and the engine dies.  If I try to restart without turning the ignition completely off, it will not re-start.  However, if I turn the ignition completely off and (re-boot?) try it again, it will re-start and run for a few seconds, check engine light flashes on and it dies.  Tried it several time with same result.  The first thing that comes to mind is the Throttle Position Sensor, or whatever is the equivalent nomenclature for the Ranger. 

Any and  all thoughts on this will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mel



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 Posted: Thu Jun 14th, 2018 07:57 pm
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Mike69

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Mel, the first thing you want to do before guessing or throwing any parts at it is have a scanner hooked to it & see if there are any codes in the system. Also I remember when I worked for a Ford dealership in the late 90's I had a stalling problem & one of the tech's said that they were seeing some stalling problems from the IAC (idle air control) to remove it & clean it with carb cleaner & reinstall it that it might help, & it did. You can try that, but I would definitely see if there are any codes stored in the computer.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 15th, 2018 05:50 pm
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MelRaymond
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Yeah, you right.  I just thought I would see if anyone happened to have the same issue.  Actually, I just ordered a Lemur BlueDriver OBD2 reader.  Their reviews were off-the-charts good, and I liked the features.  I will definitely put up a post to let you know how it works.  I have figured out that this truck is a keeper, at least as long as we are traveling full time, so I plan to pro-actively restore the mechanical side of it.  I would lots rather put a couple of grand in this truck and have a super reliable driver than go out and drop $15 to $30K on something new.  Even at that price, it would have to be something basic.

Thanks so much for the shout back!  This forum is the best I have seen on ANY subject.  Seems to be a lot of smarts here.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 20th, 2018 02:11 pm
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410customs

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The computer will tell you what is wrong, flashing light = limp mode or major problem. Pull the code(s) and go from there



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 Posted: Tue Jun 26th, 2018 04:01 pm
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MelRaymond
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I have an update on my engine shut-down problem, but first, thank you all for the feedback.  It has been very helpful.

Based on some information from a local source, I decided to check/change the spark plugs and as part of the mechanical restoration, the coil pack and wires, as well.  On the drivers side, looking front to rear of the engine, the first two plugs were normal, but the rear plug came out with only a few turns of the socket, and half of the threads were clogged with dirt.  Also, the shell of the plug was a dark blue/black from heat which had obviously come from escaping combustion gasses because the plug was not properly installed sometime in the past before I got the truck.  When I moved to the passenger side, again from the front to the rear of the engine, the front two plugs were the same way.  The rear plug on that side was fine.  So with half of the plugs only halfway into the cylinder heads, it is no wonder the computer was picking up a misfire.  The good news is that all of the plug tips and insulators looked really good with only a slight residue from oil intrusion from valve guides/seals.  The engine appears to be in pretty good shape, thank goodness. 

Going to pick up a thread chaser shortly and see if I can get all the plugs back in properly.  I have a feeling this will cure the problem.  I will post pics. 

By the way, I never have been able to detect any codes. 

Thanks again to all!



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 Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2018 01:54 pm
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There are codes you need to get them
I DOUBT this was all of your issues but I am sure having 4 out of 6 plugs not screwed in tight did not help!!

You still need to pull codes
Flashing light = code(s) in memory



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 Posted: Thu Jul 5th, 2018 01:16 am
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MelRaymond
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Well, it has been a week and so far the truck has run great.  Good starts better power and driveability.  My first time to try and post pictures so I hope they show in the post.

Attachment: spark plugs 1.jpg (Downloaded 72 times)



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 Posted: Thu Jul 5th, 2018 01:19 am
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MelRaymond
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Those plugs were on the passenger side.  The two over-heated plugs were only halfway in.  The driver's side plugs should show up below.

Attachment: spark plugs 2.jpg (Downloaded 68 times)



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 04:12 pm
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MelRaymond
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Hello all!  Wishing everyone a happy Thanksgiving and good times with family.

It has been awhile since I last posted on my original problem of the engine starting then reving and shutting down, but I wanted to make sure that I had it whipped before I chimed in again.  As I stated earlier, my goal with this truck is to make it a reliable, good running daily use truck for as long as I need it.  Since the truck was an original when I bought it, not much had been done to it over time.  As a result, many of the service items (TPS, IAC, PCV, EGR...etc) needed to be replaced anyway.  With the help of a local shop, we began the search for the problem.  Along the way all of the aforementioned service items were replaced along with Spark Plugs, coil pack, wires, fuel pump and filter, and the MAF was cleaned along with the fuel injectors.  Still no luck.  Same problem persisted.  Then I bought a Ford Factory Electrical, Vacuum and troubleshooting manual to give me access to wiring diagrams.  After a skull session with my friend Ray at the shop, he suggested that I put a light bulb and socket in the fuel pump circuit.  Since I had already eliminated the inertia switch and subbed a tip-over switch, I decided to go one step further and just put a digital volt meter in the line in parallel to be able to see what was actually going on.  So, when I started the truck I would keep a beady eye on the volt meter and watch for clues.  Lo....AND behold...the next time it acted up I watched the voltage reading and just after the engine revved up, the voltage dropped to less than 1 volt, but only for a split second and then it popped back up to normal levels, but it was long enough to shut down the fuel pump and the ignition switch had to be turned completely off and then re-started. 

Long story short, after perusing the wiring diagrams, I discovered that the primary side of the fuel pump relay was powered through the PCM relay.  Upon removal of the PCM relay it looked ok, but it failed the "Sniff Test".  It had a burned smell about it.  This whole thing had been an intermittent problem, so evidently the PCM relay was failing when it overheated and then working ok when it was not overheated.  Since the replacement of the PCM relay in early September, the truck has not failed to start and run every time.  I wanted to give it enough time to prove itself, because the old problem had bee recurring in one to two week intervals. 

This whole adventure has played out over months and been nothing short of maddening.  But....it does prove the theory that if you don't quit, eventually you....WIN !!!!!!!!



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I have been an electrician forever, and I still enjoy building, repairing and creating projects. Do a little welding and fabrication. My two primary hobbies are messing about with vintage motorcycles and attempting to do my blog site justice (ridingmybucketlist.com)My wife of 51 years and I are in our 3rd year of travels in our motorhome.
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 05:24 pm
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Really glad you figured it out, my latest little one is cutting in and out when warm. Where did you connect the voltmeter to... toward the front where you can get to the wires better or at the fuel pump?

I will do this on mine too and see if the pump is cutting out or the power going to it.

I'll delete the second post for you if it is OK with you?

BTW having a EVTM for your year is the ticket, I have one for my 2000's, and for the parts mountaineer I bought, its a 97.



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00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 06:38 pm
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Mike69

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Mel, so glad you were able to find & fix your problem & thanks for the update on what fixed it. Jim I deleted the second post.



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08 Escape 4x4(spare)
00 Ranger Extd Cab 4x4 4.0 OHV, Auto(My DD)
99 Explorer Sport 4x4 4.0 SOHC, Auto( Wife's DD)
69 Mustang Coupe 5.0, 5 spd(Project & my future toy)
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 08:36 pm
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410customs

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And here I was telling you to chase codes LOL
I should have read your first post more clearly, you did not have a flashing CEL< you just had a CEL flash when it died....two different things.
The CEL always flashes before the dang engine dies..

So glad you fixed it!
Those two relays, the EEC and Fuel pump have caused alot of headaches over the years with intermittent fuel and power issues



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 08:41 pm
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JAMMAN

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Not meaning to hijack, but should I just replace them on my latest 2000 and see if it still cacks out? I have a stack of relays I've kept every relay and fuse I have ever removed I'm sure I have a couple.



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 10:32 pm
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MelRaymond
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Thanks much.  I don't have to tell you how frustrating some of these projects can be. 

I connected the voltmeter at the inertia switch location.

Good luck with yours.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 10:34 pm
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MelRaymond
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Thanks for the delete.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 10:37 pm
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MelRaymond
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Early on in the adventure, I thought about just replacing all of the relays because they were all original and 20 years old.  I would not have known for sure what my issue was, though, and kind of like the fellow staring down the barrel of Dirty Harry's 44, I GOT to know....



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 10:59 pm
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MelRaymond
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That's ok, sometimes the details get a little fuzzy.  Actually, after I fixed the first problem I did get a check engine light and when I plugged in the Blue Driver, I got code P0174.  The top two fixes for that code were shown to be replacing the intake manifold and plenum gaskets.  So.....I rolled up my sleeves and went to work again.

When I figured out what i thought I was going to need, I placed an order with RockAuto for most of the stuff.  I ordered the Dorman replacement lower manifold (aluminum) and the upper manifold (plastic) and both parts fit perfectly.  I knew I was going to need gaskets, so I ordered the Mahle kit, thinking it would be convenient to have them all in one box.  However, the lower intake manifold gasket from Mahle is a two piece affair requiring use of RTV across the block from head to head.  The factory gasket is one piece and I had a feeling it would be easier to keep in place than the two piece gaskets.  I was right.  I went to the local Ford dealer and paid the price for a factory gasket and happy I did. 

The hardest part about getting the upper manifold off was getting the O-ring on the EGR tube to turn loose after 20 years.  it was stuck pretty tight.   I just had to wrestle it off. 

The best thing I did was to keep poking around the internet until I found a really good tutorial that had, not only a lot of highly detailed instructions, but also a page out of the Ford parts book for the entire intake system.

This is the site that I got all that from.  seekpart.com/keywordpdf/2011/1111/2011111214955189.pdf 

I think I got that right.  Let me know if it needs tweaking.



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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 11:10 pm
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Close!

But to preserve it forever even if they remove it from their server, here is mentioned article to DL

Courtesy of seekpart.com

Attachment: 2011111214955189.pdf (Downloaded 5 times)



____________________
00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2018 11:43 pm
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MelRaymond
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Thanks for putting that out there.  I couldn't access it with the info I had.  Things change.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2018 02:15 am
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I just want to point out the obvious. You bought a 20 year old truck that until you bought it, needed nearly nothing. At 200k miles no less. To me this says Reliability with a capital R! With you're skills, knowledge, and the help from a few members at FR I see no reason this truck wont last as long as needed. Thank you for sharing!!!



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2018 10:59 am
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I really think that if it were not for "rust" you would frequently see half million mile rangers all over. Legendary trucks!



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Sat Dec 8th, 2018 01:51 am
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MelRaymond
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You and Eddie Money are right on the mark.  Great trucks!

We just got back from a 1500 mile road-trip and the truck did just fine.  Mainly running I-40 with the cruise set on 70 most of the time, it turned in 19 mpg (18 with a head-wind). 

Speaking of cruise control, prior to the trip, it was not working.  After having it diagnosed, it turned out the Servo Motor was bad.  From Ford, they are $500 + or -.   I did some snooping around on EBay and found some NOS units for a lot less.  I decided on the least expensive one and used PayPal for insurance.  When it arrived, it was a Motorcraft item that looked new.  It took a whole ten minutes to install, and worked great the whole way.  I'm very picky when it comes to buying on EBay, but it worked out good this time.

Thanks again for all the input and support.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 8th, 2018 03:15 am
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You should run your vehicle identification number through the recall site. My 99 ranger had a cruise control recall. It might be the same for 98 rangers. It may have already been in for the recall but if it hasn't go get it. Took them 5 min to switch whatever was supposed to be recalled. 

I'm glad you're enjoying your truck!!!!



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 Posted: Mon Aug 26th, 2019 12:35 am
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MelRaymond
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I have been off the site for awhile.  I have my ups and downs with my treatment cycles and all of the life that gets in the way.  Life gets tedious don't it.....  

i do finally have a close to my original issue of the truck starting and then stalling in very frustrating intermittent cycles.  I thought we had whipped it more than once and got my heart broke every time.  However, Once we completed our trip back to South Carolina and I took the truck to my favorite shop, we started to actually get somewhere.  After a couple of dry runs that did not work ouit, the mechanic at A Plus Auto Service in North Charleston took it personal and really put his head into it.  It had him stumped, and he didn't like it.  Finally, on a hunch, I guess, he pulled the PCM and discovered a Jet performance chip plugged into the computer.  He pulled the chip and discovered two buggered up pin connections.  He installed the PCM without the Jet chip and the truck has been starting and running great ever since.  That was two and a half months ago, and we have been driving the wheels off the old truck. 

Now....the goofy part (on my part, of course), way back when we were chasing the problem I installed a new PCM.  Now, I am Old School (hell, I'm just OLD), and had never messed with any of the latter day tech stuff and had never laid eyes on a "performance chip".  When I changed the PCM, I unplugged the Jet chip from the old computer and put it in the new one not realizing that I was shooting myself in the foot all the while.  Obviously, the problem was with the connections on the Jet Chip all along. 

So if you have Dummy of the Year Award, I guess I would be the front runner for it.  LOL!  Oh well........ 

Really appreciate all of the response and input from you guys.  Sorry I drug you off after the "Wild Goose"!



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I have been an electrician forever, and I still enjoy building, repairing and creating projects. Do a little welding and fabrication. My two primary hobbies are messing about with vintage motorcycles and attempting to do my blog site justice (ridingmybucketlist.com)My wife of 51 years and I are in our 3rd year of travels in our motorhome.
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 Posted: Mon Aug 26th, 2019 01:29 am
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Eddie Money
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I call it a win. It's only a fail if you quit trying. Good job!!!



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