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Ford-Rangers.com Ranger Forum > Ranger Engine Tech > 6 Cylinder Gasoline > Can I pull my 93 4.0 OHV with A/C lines still connected??

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Can I pull my 93 4.0 OHV with A/C lines still connected??       #: 1370
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2018 11:49 pm
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Vincenthdfan
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Hey all,
I was just getting ready to pull my upper & lower intake manifolds for new gaskets and rocker arm covers for new gaskets on my 93 4.0.

While in there I was going to change my rockers and pushrods because they have the usual ticking noise to them.

Then....as luck would have it, a guy was selling a 97 4.0 OHV with only 120,000 on the clock for dirt, dirt cheap...basically "I need this outta my shop to make room" cheap!!

He was in the middle of doing a 5.0 swap into his 2 wheel drive 97 Ranger.

He even threw in the 5 speed with the deal for no extra!

So now I'm at a crossroads....

Do I just proceed with my re-gasketing and rocker replacement on my '93 motor, or go to the trouble of swapping over all the external parts and changing entire engines (actually the cheaper route, believe it or not)?


If I do pull my 93 motor out, I cant for the life of me see how it will clear the still connected air conditioning lines that are routed IN FRONT of the engine (thanks Ford!!)

I really don't want to disconnect the lines because it's an R-12 system and it still works just fine, if you can believe that??!!

So tell me, will I be able to clear it?

I know I will have to pull radiator, fan & fan clutch, etc to make room....but I don't want to get 3/4 of the way through removal and find out it wont clear the lines....

Whats the consensus please?

Thanks!

Last edited on Thu Nov 1st, 2018 11:50 pm by Vincenthdfan



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1993 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab
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Converted it to 5 Speed and Manual Transfer Case!
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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 12:12 am
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JAMMAN

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Never tried it on that era. How far are you in to the job?

A couple on here find it easy but so far I have seen nothing but headaches in motor pulls/swaps as far as the time it takes... and usually needing 2 humans for parts of it AND nickle and dime stuff like trans lines and fittings, trans fluid (expensive), clamps, hoses, anti-freeze, brake fluid, power steering fluid AND the things you should do while the motor is out like timing chains, water pumps... different sensors in different places causing wiring issues..

I mean in the end you really do come out ahead but it is a rough ride.

I'm in the middle of 2 right now and if it were not for the help I'm getting I would have dropped it by now.

You might be younger and have more friends than I do LOL but it barely outweighs the effort in my opinion.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 12:50 am
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Vincenthdfan
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Yeah, I'm really torn...I already have coil pack, pulleys, A/C, and power steering mounts loose....basically down to getting ready to rip some manifolds off.

Then, this motor just literally falls into my lap, lol.

I will be doing it all solo, same as I did my whole 5 speed conversion (including pulling the donor 5 speed on my back, in the mud, during a rain storm...at night!).

I'm retired and have a nice shop to do it all in...and a 4 post lift, but I'm kinda thinking my motor isn't really a lost cause either.

I just got done putting a new throttle body, water pump, thermostat, plugs, wires, etc on it when I found the lower intake water leak...ugh.

The newer motor looks to be pretty nice, plugs have good even burn to them, obviously way less time and miles on this motor than my original...and only right valve cover has been leaking compared to my sieve, lol.

Yeah, I need to make up my mind....

Attachment: Motor 2.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)

Last edited on Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 01:08 am by Vincenthdfan



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Converted it to 5 Speed and Manual Transfer Case!
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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 02:23 am
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Bird76Mojo
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Just unbolt the compressor from the engine and lay it aside with the hoses still attached. lol

Last edited on Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 02:24 am by Bird76Mojo

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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 03:14 am
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Vincenthdfan
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Bird76Mojo wrote:
Just unbolt the compressor from the engine and lay it aside with the hoses still attached. lol
Uhhh...you saw the part about 93's having the A/C lines wrapped around the FRONT of the motor right?

Good old Engineers didn't provide a whole lotta slack in the lines, or clearance when unbolted.

Later year models they routed the A/C lines around the rear of the motor.

Attachment: Ranger AC.jpg (Downloaded 25 times)

Last edited on Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 03:15 am by Vincenthdfan



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 03:20 am
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Bird76Mojo
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It's not that hard to figure out. You remove accessories/brackets until you can swing the compressor out of the way. As done on any other straight-up engine swap..

Remove the throttle body or intake if necessary. Not a big deal..



GB :)

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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 03:30 am
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Vincenthdfan
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Bird76Mojo wrote:
It's not that hard to figure out. You remove accessories/brackets until you can swing the compressor out of the way. As done on any other straight-up engine swap..

Remove the throttle body or intake if necessary. Not a big deal..
GB :)

Didn't think it was a big deal, just asking is there enough slack to slip it past the compressor and hoses still attached?

Trust me....30 years of Aircraft Maintenance I've had my share of trying to get big stuff outta very tight places thanks to Engineers.  :whatever:

Last edited on Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 03:32 am by Vincenthdfan



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 09:20 am
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Yes you should be able to



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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 09:30 am
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JAMMAN

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HOWEVER since you have a nice spare motor... really nice rangers with blown motors happen from time to time and if it were a 97 that was born with a 4.0 the swap would be much easier especially electrically.

People get in to trouble especially if they live in apartments or really nice neighborhoods that don't allow cars just sitting there and will off Ranger shells for cheap. Usually close to their birthday when they are faced with either plating a car they can't drive or making a few bucks and getting rid of their pretty lawn ornament.



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00 XLT 2WD RCSB 5.0 swap Gherkin
00 XLT 4WD XCSB 4.0 G2
00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
00 XLT 4WD RCSB Steppie 3.blown. Mistake
99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

ALL Amazon Green Metallic
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 Posted: Fri Nov 2nd, 2018 01:11 pm
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97 engine much better then a 93, the heads are much stronger

I would use the 97 engine

You can move the ac compressor out of the way just unbolt it and the lines and keep removing things around them until there is enough room to move it to the side

You will be using the 97 long block, just the block and heads. All the other parts will come from your 93

You will notice the 97 has EGR and a cam synchro
The 93 does not

You want to use all the parts, sensors, wiring and accessories from your 93 engine on top of the 97 long block

In my opinion if your 93 engine has a lifter tick and you are about to dump head gaskets, lifters, pushrods and more into the 93 engine....forget it. Use the 97 block, you would be far better off putting those same parts into the 97 engine, in 95 the heads were re designed again and got much better then that 93 unit.

93 and 97 are my favorite years of the OHV, the 93 computer with no EGR and no CAM synchro rules, the 97 engine has all the updates and they are tough as nails.

Let us know what you decide!

You could also tinker with the 93 engine, replace all your parts, see how good it comes out and keep that 97 around as a spare for when the 93 engine gives it up.... you have a few choices to make here. I know what I would do!



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