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98 4.0 Ranger       #: 1317
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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 11:40 am
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Hmmmm a 98 4.0 is usually pretty peppy, I'd give it a week then hook the scanner up to it and see how all the little things look. If no problem there then do a compression check.

Or just enjoy it :)



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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 02:31 pm
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4.0L OHV does not make a ton of power or a good race truck, but it will go wherever you need it to go and we can get 400K miles from one of those engines so.... Worth it!


OHV 4.0l LOVES breathing mods, intake, exhaust, some headers....really wakes them up!

Glad the ticking is lessened, perhaps there were a few issues.
You did replace the lifters this time or?

Last edited on Thu Oct 18th, 2018 02:32 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 02:33 pm
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Yes I did replace the lifters

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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 02:33 pm
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I'm driving it now in the sound is almost non-existent

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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 02:44 pm
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Change the oil a little earlier than normal this time around even the cleanest assembly ends up with scraps in the pan and filter. I would suggest like 1500 miles or even less.



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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 01:59 pm
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410customs

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I do 500 miles
I use cheapo oil for this but a motocraft filter to catch all the gunk
Then switch back to your good oil, for me its mobil one full syth 5-30W
Nice to hear its running properly!
I think you had some bad lifters allowing the slop in the pushrods
Keep an eye on coolant level now

A job well done!! Way to persevere!!

Last edited on Fri Oct 19th, 2018 01:59 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Fri Oct 19th, 2018 10:59 pm
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410customs wrote:
I do 500 miles
I use cheapo oil for this but a motocraft filter to catch all the gunk
Then switch back to your good oil, for me its mobil one full syth 5-30W
Nice to hear its running properly!
I think you had some bad lifters allowing the slop in the pushrods
Keep an eye on coolant level now

A job well done!! Way to persevere!!

Thanks but Im definitely not happy with it yet, Im gonna try a heavier oil ( what can you recommend ) and if need be an oil additive such as slick 50 on my next oil change which is gonna be real soon cause Ive put almost 300 on it and the ticking is driving me insane cause of all the effort I put into it.

Its not getting better and not worse, still there and noticeable by me

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 Posted: Sat Oct 20th, 2018 04:23 pm
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410customs

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Are you SURE it is not an exhaust leak?
I do not run any snake oils like slick 50 or marvels mystery oil...I do however use diesel oil sometimes to clean slidge out of these engines.
I have removed enough oil pans on these engines to know that ones that are neglected usually die because of sludge (Carbon deposits, water mixed with oil) basically not enough oil changes.
The oil pumps on these are engines are bomb proof, if they are spinning they are trying to build oil pressure. Only sludge can stop this, it clogs passages and stops the oil from circulating and draining back
Diesel oil breaks up these deposits, and it does it quickly. I have seen 4.0 pushrod and 5.0 pushrods engines that were making 0-6 psi at idle days/weeks later making 30-40 psi at idle simply by using diesel oil for a change or two.
We need to know what your noise is
It is either exhaust or?
It could possibly be a lower end knock, like a spun bearing or piston wrist pin?
Tick is usually a lifter issue (oil to lifter) or exhaust leak
Knock can be a rod bearing or wrist pin
I use a mechanics stethoscope and flashlight to TRY and pinpoint noises, which side of the engine and how high up

We already know your oil pump is working and building pressure, what we don't know is:
How long was this engine run with water in it? (water + oil = sludge)
Is that oil pressure making it into the lifters? (I doubt it based on what you say and the marks on the pushrods)
So you need to determine if we have a lower end knock (piston or crank) or if it is indeed lifter/valvetrain again (Where my $$$ is at)
If this is the case, forget slick 50 or any oil treatment, what you need is detergents to break up sludge and remove it from your engine (IE diesel oil and drive it around)....

We had a 5.0L with 253K mile on it, replaced transmission and the engine lost oil pressure it would drop to 0-5psi at idle when warm. Drained engine of all oil. FILLED engine with diesel oil and let it sit for a few days, drained the engine
Fresh oil change with diesel oil and drive it around with mechanical oil pressure gauge. Drove it to work and back for two weeks. In 2-3 days the oil pressure started to build and return to normal... that 5.0 is still driving around today last I checked. The detergents in the diesel oil attack carbon and the sludge is thinned out and passages are opened.

Adding a "thicker oil" or oil treatment like Lucas petroleum jelly can help build oil pressure on an engine with bad rings/ bearings/compression = not you
What you are dealing with SOUNDS LIKE a valvetrain oiling issue


Now you see why I usually replace the whole engine with a known good low mile unit. Or at least tear the entire longbock down on a stand and refresh the lower and upper end/heads $$$$$
I will buy a whole truck to get an engine, but sometimes I will go to EBay or a wrecker and get a warranty.

Last edited on Sat Oct 20th, 2018 04:29 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Sat Oct 20th, 2018 09:43 pm
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I believe it is valvetrain as well still, no gasket from manifold to exhaust collector that Im aware of? I didnt pull any out anyway, seems to me there should be a ring gasket on both sides?

I doubt its exhaust, again I believe it to be valvetrain and while its a mile better than it was its still driving me nuts.

I gotta get the 4WD working next, Ill feel better if I fix that, at least Ill feel like Im moving forward with something

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 Posted: Sun Oct 21st, 2018 11:58 am
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410customs wrote:
Are you SURE it is not an exhaust leak?
I do not run any snake oils like slick 50 or marvels mystery oil...I do however use diesel oil sometimes to clean slidge out of these engines.
I have removed enough oil pans on these engines to know that ones that are neglected usually die because of sludge (Carbon deposits, water mixed with oil) basically not enough oil changes.
The oil pumps on these are engines are bomb proof, if they are spinning they are trying to build oil pressure. Only sludge can stop this, it clogs passages and stops the oil from circulating and draining back
Diesel oil breaks up these deposits, and it does it quickly. I have seen 4.0 pushrod and 5.0 pushrods engines that were making 0-6 psi at idle days/weeks later making 30-40 psi at idle simply by using diesel oil for a change or two.
We need to know what your noise is
It is either exhaust or?
It could possibly be a lower end knock, like a spun bearing or piston wrist pin?
Tick is usually a lifter issue (oil to lifter) or exhaust leak
Knock can be a rod bearing or wrist pin
I use a mechanics stethoscope and flashlight to TRY and pinpoint noises, which side of the engine and how high up

We already know your oil pump is working and building pressure, what we don't know is:
How long was this engine run with water in it? (water + oil = sludge)
Is that oil pressure making it into the lifters? (I doubt it based on what you say and the marks on the pushrods)
So you need to determine if we have a lower end knock (piston or crank) or if it is indeed lifter/valvetrain again (Where my $$$ is at)
If this is the case, forget slick 50 or any oil treatment, what you need is detergents to break up sludge and remove it from your engine (IE diesel oil and drive it around)....

We had a 5.0L with 253K mile on it, replaced transmission and the engine lost oil pressure it would drop to 0-5psi at idle when warm. Drained engine of all oil. FILLED engine with diesel oil and let it sit for a few days, drained the engine
Fresh oil change with diesel oil and drive it around with mechanical oil pressure gauge. Drove it to work and back for two weeks. In 2-3 days the oil pressure started to build and return to normal... that 5.0 is still driving around today last I checked. The detergents in the diesel oil attack carbon and the sludge is thinned out and passages are opened.

Adding a "thicker oil" or oil treatment like Lucas petroleum jelly can help build oil pressure on an engine with bad rings/ bearings/compression = not you
What you are dealing with SOUNDS LIKE a valvetrain oiling issue


Now you see why I usually replace the whole engine with a known good low mile unit. Or at least tear the entire longbock down on a stand and refresh the lower and upper end/heads $$$$$
I will buy a whole truck to get an engine, but sometimes I will go to EBay or a wrecker and get a warranty.

Okay I've been thinking about this can't let it go tell me this why then when I start the truck up is it so quiet I mean of course just for the instance that starts you hear a little lifter noise or something but then it goes away completely no noise whatsoever until a few minutes later when the truck heats up if it was blockage somewhere then wouldn't it be nosey all of the time help me to figure this out

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 Posted: Sun Oct 21st, 2018 03:26 pm
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yes a noisy lifter should be there from the very start on a cold start

If it develops after its warm its usually a lower end knock like a rod or bearing? or?

Heck it may just be an exhaust leak, if I was there I could help you determine its source!
Cat converter could have something loose inside of it? (Have seen whole bolts down in there)
Exhaust manifold to Y pipe connection have no gasket in them, the whole Y pipe must be lined up perfectly and tightened down evenly. An Exhaust leak will show itself over time with black soot

What steps can we take to pinpoint the noise?
Do you have any friends that can help?

I know I have driven engines around making worse noises then you describe, heck some 4.0L I know make ticking/lifter noise all the time and are still going... the OHV 4.0 is one tough sob!

Ticking sound to me sounds like exhaust leak, tick tick tick
It can also be an injector not firing (obvious miss)
It can be a rotational noise in the serpentine system (remove belt and see if it is effected)
It can be a wrist pin on the bottom of a piston making noise
it can be something in the valve train
If noise is at back of engine it can be cam synchronizer
If it is at top of engine (valve cover) then it may be your top end pushrod/lifters/rockers
If it is at oil pan it points to lower end rotating assembly problem, on 4.0 the piston connecting rod and piston wrist pin can make ticking noises and still run forever

It can be very hard to pinpoint, but it can be done
A mechanics stethoscope is a good way to find it...
Fun climbing all around hot engine bays isn't it!!

Your hunch is to run some thicker oil, I am a firm believer of listening to my customers and their hunches. If it shows up when its warm and the oil thins out then you might try adding some Lucas petroleum jelly and see if it thickens up the oil and lessens the noise. Do this before your next oil change

We are looking to eliminate things that can be the noise so we can find out what is making it

Last edited on Sun Oct 21st, 2018 03:30 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Sun Oct 21st, 2018 04:40 pm
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I'm going to make a video for you and put it on YouTube later on today when I get back home assuming it sounds the same on video that it does in real person I'll post it on YouTube and I'll post a link here for you to listen to I don't know if it's going to help or not but it can't hurt

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 Posted: Sun Oct 21st, 2018 10:55 pm
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Ok Im not gonna post a video, I made it on my phone but the engine sounds horribly loud clacking and I know it isnt that bad.

Im gonna start looking for a replacement engine just to see what I can find cheap with low miles.

What is the latest years I should be looking for preferably with the updated heads on it ( assuming Ford did offer a year with a good head on it )

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:32 pm
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98-01 OHV 4.0L from Ranger or Explorer

I would not go replacing the engine just yet!
I want to see the video anyways, I have heard plenty of ohv 4.0 in my day we might be able to help w the noise

What do you think it is? What does your gut tell you after all of this discussion?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:33 pm
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my gut tells me it's valve train still my gut also tells me that the oil I'm using 5 way 30 is too thin for whatever reason I don't know why

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:34 pm
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I can't explain it when I go out there first thing in the morning to start it up just for that 1 seconds you hear the upper and valve train but then the noise of the engine is completely quiet perfect then if you're standing there as the engine heats up you start to notice a little chick and then another little chick and the chicks become one after another until it's hot and then it's ticking

Last edited on Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:38 pm by 1930

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:39 pm
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I'm driving the truck right now so the phone is pretty much typing whatever it thinks it hears from me I've put 678 miles on it so far at this point

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:40 pm
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if it was a oil pressure problem in my opinion then it would be ticking from the get-go and that's not the case it's very quiet in the morning when I first start it after the initial start

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 02:41 pm
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I think for whatever reason the oil is just too thin for this engine I don't know why I don't know if thicker oil is going to help

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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 03:19 pm
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Cam synchronizer???
Chirp chirp chirp?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 22nd, 2018 05:22 pm
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No it's valves in my opinion. I'll ask my wife to post a video this evening

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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 03:43 am
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I hope you got a deal on your truck considering all the trouble you've had. I was looking at Carguru.com for longbed rangers and I saw quite a few newer, low mile rangers on the other side of the states from me. Some could be flood damaged but dang. In the north west rangers are expensive and most are 130k miles or more. 

This has 58k original miles

This is what they go for in washington. This has 167k original miles. 2000-05 rangers go for 3000-6000 here.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 09:45 am
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I paid 600 dollars for it and it a 98 so quite a bit older than what you are looking at but its condition is overall  very good.

Im not unhappy with it, I bought it cheap and have had alot of good learning experiences with it.

Lifes about experiencing new things.

Last edited on Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 11:48 am by 1930

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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 10:20 am
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Here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxe49EaModU is the video. I tried making one from start up to when the noise would start but its cold this A.M. and Im guessing because of that it made no ticking noise for quite a while.

The noise definitely gets louder if it were a hot day but again its not stupid loud like it was before, just annoying, when I am sitting at a light I expect people to take notice of the noise ( Like I would if it were someone elses car ) but so far no-one has paid any mind to it.

Its best heard with headphones and yes that is the noise

Last edited on Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 10:22 am by 1930

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 Posted: Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 10:35 am
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Id like to pull the valve cover off that drivers side and let it run but I guess thats not a possibility with these 4.0s.

Dont know what else to do at this point except to change the oil and use 20-50 like I use in everything else I drive. See if that gets rid of the noise

Last edited on Tue Oct 23rd, 2018 10:36 am by 1930

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