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Truck is heating up at times       #: 1098
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Sat Aug 11th, 2018 06:58 am
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Savage03
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Update, I finally got another obd reader and took awhile but got it working and in the driveway at idle in gear it was at 220 degrees. Seems a bit high and that wasn't sitting for long.
However I was looking under the hood and started wondering if the fan itself maybe the blades were getting old and warped or something....well I saw something and thought at first it was dirt so grabbed some light and it was a crack, its running on the flat area in between the fan blades. So I started rotating the fan and pretty much every spot between the blades has a crack running across most are at least half way across. Yikes. Figure matter of time blades will start flying off :'(

Don't really have the cash right now but 2 options get another fan for around $30 or $40....this is what I really want to do tho!!

3 ROW ALUMINUM RADIATOR & 16" FAN RED TOC OIL COOLER FOR 98-11 RANGER 

That will fix it! lol

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 Posted: Sat Aug 11th, 2018 12:34 pm
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I had the same issue with the fan blade on my 2000 Ranger with the cracks. I replaced it with a Motorcraft unit from RockAuto.com $44.89 for a new one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=379458&cc=1438304&jsn=567



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 Posted: Sat Aug 11th, 2018 05:04 pm
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Every single nylon fan on all rangers and explorers crack around the hub
The cracks can get really bad and require replacement

The 5.0 was available with a metal fan for a couple of years, hooray for v8 trucks

220 degrees is a little warm for idling in driveway.
You should be able to watch your ECT from cold start. The temp should reach around 200-205 and then the thermostat opens fully (195 thermostat stock) and allows the engine coolant to start flowing, when this happens temp should drop to way less then 200-205 for a few minutes. I would like to see your truck run a t 195-215 degrees for normal operation, maybe get up to 220-225 in stop and go with AC on. It could be a weak waterpump, a clogged radiator, poor fan clutch (they usually overcool because they stick on) or a faulty thermostat.
Also check condition of radiator cap and coolant itself



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 Posted: Sat Aug 11th, 2018 05:21 pm
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Savage03
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Yea my excitement that it was the fan got shot down by a buddy who has wrenched on rangers for years and said he has seen them with cracks all the time and not effect the heating :(
Coolant is a thought just cause I tried the tester they sell and its saying its only good for 218 degrees before boiling so think its boiling where im running.. I picked up some full strength anti freeze and do that. Engine bay is running really hot under to, melted my k&n filter I found out. While I was idle in drive thru as usual it went up so I turned on the heat for a minute (good times when its over 100 degrees out lol) and it dropped back down to normal on the gauge. I had got the reader late in the evening so only got to mess with it for a short time.

Been suggested as well that the new aluminum thermostat housing could be producing more heat then the plastic one would and or holding more heat there which houses the sensors. Really h ate the idea of swapping it out for the old plastic one again just to check.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 12th, 2018 08:08 am
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MaDMaXX

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Alright, i think you need to time out for a moment here, it does seem you've done most things you need to, but maybe think a little more simple here, don't bother with that housing thing, that's too much like grabbing at straws.


Firstly, check the temp with your reader from cold, make sure it goes through the stages that 410customs talked out. Make sure that you see the drop when the thermo opens.

Just because the fan clutch was done a few years ago, doesn't mean it's still working. If that 'hot mode' isn't engaging, it'll struggle to cool enough when hot. Having said that, i thought most failed by locking up all the time.

Your ability to cool off the temp by turning the heat on, does mean that your coolant is not being cooled enough on it's run through the radiator, so again, we need to check that area, which starts with the thermostat opening enough.

Did you say you've checked all the levels for coolant? is there an overflow/header tank on the 4.0?



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 Posted: Sun Aug 12th, 2018 08:36 am
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MaDMaXX wrote:
Alright, i think you need to time out for a moment here, it does seem you've done most things you need to, but maybe think a little more simple here, don't bother with that housing thing, that's too much like grabbing at straws.


Firstly, check the temp with your reader from cold, make sure it goes through the stages that 410customs talked out.  Make sure that you see the drop when the thermo opens.

Just because the fan clutch was done a few years ago, doesn't mean it's still working.  If that 'hot mode' isn't engaging, it'll struggle to cool enough when hot.  Having said that, i thought most failed by locking up all the time.

Your ability to cool off the temp by turning the heat on, does mean that your coolant is not being cooled enough on it's run through the radiator, so again, we need to check that area, which starts with the thermostat opening enough.

Did you say you've checked all the levels for coolant? is there an overflow/header tank on the 4.0?

Yea im really burned out on this adventure!
The water pump was done a few years ago maybe 3 or so, the fan clutch was just done last month.
I actually talked to the guy who makes these aluminum housings and he said hasn't had anyone say they had this problem but he feels its a coolant issue....Coolant is full in radiator and to the line in the over flow. I got one of those testers for coolant and it read it will boil at 218 degrees so at 220 in my drive way it should be boiling already.
Going to put new coolant in with concentrate not 50/50. I also just put a new fail safe thermostat in a few weeks ago so hope that's not it but I will try tomorrow to see what the temps do from start to open.
Appreciate all the input, over whelming! I am not a super know it all car guy so just trying to keep it out of a expensive repair shop!

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 Posted: Sun Aug 12th, 2018 10:44 am
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Chris

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I assume the Ranger has a pressurised cooling system ?

The pressure will raise the boiling point of the coolant to around 235 degrees so I doubt it was boiling at all.

Have you checked that the ignition system is correctly set? Over advanced timing will create more heat - as will a weak fuel mixture.

In many cars the temp gauge is designed to  stay at "normal" over a wide temperature range just to stop owners worrying about what the needle if up to!

Life was so much easier when cars only had an ignition light and an oil light :D



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 Posted: Sun Aug 12th, 2018 03:52 pm
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Savage03 wrote:

Appreciate all the input, over whelming! I am not a super know it all car guy so just trying to keep it out of a expensive repair shop!

Suggestions, based on personal experience:

*Use a Motorcraft thermostat of the correct temp.

*Use a Motorcraft fan clutch. Reason for both being Motorcraft parts is not brand loyalty.

*Verify that there is no debris between the condenser and the radiator. To assume this is not the same as to personally verify. With the radiator out, it't a great time to power douche out (via backflush) 15 years of cooked bug carcasses and guts from the condenser.

*Use AC Max and not AC normal on exceptionally hot days.

***Your aftermarket t-state housing is not contributing to the problem.

***Use a 50/50 coolant mix, not the *concentrate* you mention. Too much of one or the other will depress the boiling point, not raise it.

Last edited on Sun Aug 12th, 2018 04:00 pm by CBB9M



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 Posted: Sun Aug 12th, 2018 06:11 pm
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MaDMaXX

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I keep reading what you're saying about the coolant test, and i keep worrying each time, it's unclear what exactly you're saying about it and what you're going to do, so i'll try and clarify.

CBB9M just mentioned it on his last point, don't use concentrate coolant - someone already mentioned much earlier that coolant is not the stuff in the bottle, coolant is what's in your cooling system, and that should be a mix of anti freeze and water.


Most coolant checking devices i've seen/used, don't state the waters boiling point, that seems useless, it's for checking antifreeze concentration, which is all you care about.

As you live in CA, you don't actually need antifreeze in your engine, for testing purposes, and to keep the costs down, go ahead and use straight water in the system and see if it fixes the issue. Let us know.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 01:56 am
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Well I tried today to do the temperature watch thing with the obd2 reader but is their some magic deal to get this stupid thing to work? I spent like 30mins other day when I got it to get it to link by wifi and not even sure what I did cause it just all of a sudden linked up. So had to run errands today and when I got in to leave I tried to get it to link up and the thing would not do it. Tried everything I could think of but the wifi kept saying no internet or something like that. Messed with it entire time I was out and almost tossed it out the window, swear I will never buy another Ford long as I live! Dam truck has fought me every step since I got it.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 02:08 am
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MaDMaXX

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That sounds like a technical problem between your dongle and the phone, nothing to do with the truck i'm afraid.

Anyway, were you putting more than 50% anti freeze in the water?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 02:13 am
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Yea I know its not the truck I was saying in the 4 years I have other issues just wearing my nerves.
When I had the stock thermostat housing on it was leaking so till I got a new one I was just adding distilled water then anti freeze was added after new one was put on.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 02:22 am
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MaDMaXX

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Alright, so there is a good chance you have too much antifreeze in it?

Does your tester also show the concentration of antifreeze? Ignore the boiling point read out, it's worthless.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 03:20 am
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Meant to show what I was using, not a great pic but get the idea.

Attachment: 20180812_112925.jpg (Downloaded 8 times)

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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 04:33 am
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MaDMaXX

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You need something that shows the concentration of antifreeze, and you need to make sure it doesn't show any higher than 50% antifreeze, otherwise that's the likely cause of your issue.



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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 04:46 am
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Is that one of those fancier ones like Prestone makes? If so will go get one tomorrow.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 13th, 2018 04:49 am
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MaDMaXX

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I couldn't say tbh, i've never seen one that estimates boiling point, i don't even know why they exist.

But yeah, any regular auto shop should have one that shows concentration amounts - let's start there and work out if you've got the basic stuff working right.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 04:10 am
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Savage03 wrote:
Is that one of those fancier ones like Prestone makes? If so will go get one tomorrow.



I've used the Prestone coolant tester for over 30 years; in your PM's you will find simple instructions on how to use it to test freeze temp and boiling point of any engine coolant. Enjoy!

*They're not really fancy, my last one lasted 30 years and IIRC you will get change back from a ten.

Last edited on Tue Aug 14th, 2018 04:14 am by CBB9M



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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 04:48 am
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Yea its cheap like $4 but I looked at it today and it does the same thing as the one I pictured a couple posts ago so I didn't get it.
This is what I did today, I ran the prestone cleaner stuff like it said which the water was actually not bad looking at all but then added coolant like it wants. Took it for a drive and now while it didn't move up as far as it usually does it still move up a little.
It usually runs up close to the line...

Attachment: 20180813_161101.jpg (Downloaded 8 times)

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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 04:49 am
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Not sure why the pics keep rotating them selves :ermm:

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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 04:52 am
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Some peoples pics rotate if they just get attached, instead of uploading to the gallery and attaching from there.


What ratio did you mix the new antifreeze and water to?



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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 11:19 am
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Savage03 wrote:
Not sure why the pics keep rotating them selves :ermm:
I would bet you are using an I phone.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 02:58 pm
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JAMMAN wrote:
Savage03 wrote:

Not sure why the pics keep rotating them selves :ermm:
I would bet you are using an I phone.

Negative! That's a girl phone.
Android..

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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 03:12 pm
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It happens .... that's phones for you!

I have straightened them up :)



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 Posted: Tue Aug 14th, 2018 03:19 pm
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How many miles on this truck? Its kinda sounding like the radiator is plugged

You should drain the whole system, flush it a bit, and run 100% water for a few days like Madmaxx mentioned and see what happens. A good flushing might help you a great deal here. Running water for a few days will eliminate a bad mixture as the issue.

Your water temp gauge is pointing rather high for a ranger just running around, usually the needle has a hard time going past the half way mark. But the factory gauge does not mean much, even though yours is higher then I would like to see.

SO how many miles?
Does this ranger have the single core radiator?
I will assume changing the water pump, fan clutch and thermostat/housing have all been because of this issue? (points to radiator)



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