Joined: Tue Oct 24th, 2017
Reputation Points: 36
Alright, i think you need to time out for a moment here, it does seem you've done most things you need to, but maybe think a little more simple here, don't bother with that housing thing, that's too much like grabbing at straws.
Firstly, check the temp with your reader from cold, make sure it goes through the stages that 410customs talked out. Make sure that you see the drop when the thermo opens.
Just because the fan clutch was done a few years ago, doesn't mean it's still working. If that 'hot mode' isn't engaging, it'll struggle to cool enough when hot. Having said that, i thought most failed by locking up all the time.
Your ability to cool off the temp by turning the heat on, does mean that your coolant is not being cooled enough on it's run through the radiator, so again, we need to check that area, which starts with the thermostat opening enough.
Did you say you've checked all the levels for coolant? is there an overflow/header tank on the 4.0?
Yea im really burned out on this adventure!
The water pump was done a few years ago maybe 3 or so, the fan clutch was just done last month.
I actually talked to the guy who makes these aluminum housings and he said hasn't had anyone say they had this problem but he feels its a coolant issue....Coolant is full in radiator and to the line in the over flow. I got one of those testers for coolant and it read it will boil at 218 degrees so at 220 in my drive way it should be boiling already.
Going to put new coolant in with concentrate not 50/50. I also just put a new fail safe thermostat in a few weeks ago so hope that's not it but I will try tomorrow to see what the temps do from start to open.
Appreciate all the input, over whelming! I am not a super know it all car guy so just trying to keep it out of a expensive repair shop!