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Where can I get a negative cable for a 93 Ranger 2.3       #: 1281
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Mon Sep 24th, 2018 11:51 pm
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wh23g3g
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Does anyone know who where I can find the negative battery cable for a 93 Ranger 2.3. I actually have a new Ford positive cable but haven't put it on unless I can find the other one. The original battery cables are so old the temporary terminal ends aren't holding up. Plus this year has some many auxillary cables going to each cable it's hard to fit in a temporary terminal, even the wider heavy duty one. Plus the internal copper is so corroded. It's used as a work truck. I'm not sure why more oem replacement battery cables aren't made aftermarket because they are about the first electrical item to wear out.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2018 12:50 am
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Junkyards would be my first bet. You may need to take a wire brush to em, but they're going to be way cheaper than new



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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2018 02:17 am
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The junkyard cables around here are probably worse than the ones I've got on there now. I got the positive cable for I believe under $50 but it was years ago. The cheapest that I've ever seen the original negative cable was around $150 and it was years ago too. I didn't have the money at the time to buy it. Now they're all gone.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2018 05:56 am
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Hit up a local audio shop.. grab a length of 4ft of 4ga, and tell the sales guy you want OFC! Not that new tinned   they use for marine applications in cars now. Grab another length of 2ft of 8ga and 4 appropriate 0.25" [1/4"] ring terminals. 4ga may take you to a 3/8" that they keep in stock. Make your own. The OFC copper is both an upgrade in grade of copper, size, and gauge. You'll see the small differences. Do the grounds when you find the terminal and work the budget in next week, month.



You dont have to go to the extent that it is.. just showing you what I've done. I heard you say its a work truck, so obviously any money spent on something quality means less chance for time down, which means more time making money not costing money.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 25th, 2018 10:48 am
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Didn't think of that, audio shop would be a great source good suggestion.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 30th, 2018 08:46 pm
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Check out LMC Truck, here is a link to the page for the battery cables.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=117



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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2018 02:45 am
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Mike69 wrote:
Check out LMC Truck, here is a link to the page for the battery cables.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fr/full.aspx?Page=117

yea but then your missing the opportunity and point to make "an upgrade" all the way from gauge to quality of the wire/copper... and shy of being a few dollars cheaper than hitting a NAPA store and pulling a self help part off the wall..



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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2018 03:19 am
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I believe this one might work even though it's for a 93-94 V6 Ranger. It's from Rockauto. I looked up the OEM Ford numbers and the 2.3 and 3.0 negative cables are almost the same part# except the 2.3 has a B at the end and the 3.0 has an A at the end. I do remember looking at my original cable it has a lead going to the core support, that round plug going to somewhere around the fuse block, and I'm not sure where the other lead goes to. I didn't look that good. This would be an easier replacement. I have the factory Ford positive cable it would just look different because it has the lead end. However, they would both be new.



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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 09:46 am
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wh23g3g wrote:
I believe this one might work even though it's for a 93-94 V6 Ranger. It's from Rockauto. I looked up the OEM Ford numbers and the 2.3 and 3.0 negative cables are almost the same part# except the 2.3 has a B at the end and the 3.0 has an A at the end. I do remember looking at my original cable it has a lead going to the core support, that round plug going to somewhere around the fuse block, and I'm not sure where the other lead goes to. I didn't look that good. This would be an easier replacement. I have the factory Ford positive cable it would just look different because it has the lead end. However, they would both be new.
The Negative terminal to 6ga cable drops down and touches/bolts to the frame then carries from there to the lower starter bolt on the 93-97 V6 4.0L. Then the 12ga goes from the terminal to the core support, the other cable should go under and towards the fuse-box as it does on the v6 4.0L. However I think the round plug carries it to another location because they use a single cable/terminal setup and by just swapping the actual engine bay harnesses and support harnesses you could interface with a single batt cable design rather than have really 3 different setups since the batteries are pretty much in the same spots. Or so I would think

Last edited on Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 09:47 am by Undrstm8ed



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 Posted: Sat Oct 6th, 2018 03:50 am
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I was actually wrong I need the positive cable. I've actually found some NOS ones but I'm not sure I'm going to go for it because they want $180 plus shipping. That's probably more than what the truck is worth. I have the NOS negative cable already.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 03:21 am
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I'm surprised no one has replied to your update. There is a place the guys get there oem stuff from but I cant remember the name. I think its LMC. Try them if you havent solved you issue already

http://www.lmctruck.com/ford/



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 Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 03:27 am
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Yeah I know about LMC. All they offer is generic no lead battery cables or the same cables you can buy at any parts stores. I've found a few dealers that have some NOS cables left but they are $150-$180 with shipping. I'm not sure the truck is worth that much. So I'm still debating.



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 Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 06:51 am
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Maybe try a pick n pull salvage yard



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 Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 07:20 am
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wh23g3g wrote:
Yeah I know about LMC. All they offer is generic no lead battery cables or the same cables you can buy at any parts stores. I've found a few dealers that have some NOS cables left but they are $150-$180 with shipping. I'm not sure the truck is worth that much. So I'm still debating.
How is a running truck not worth $200 in parts? A [decent to good] running vehicle alone in the sense of just flipping it can easily fetch a $1k all day.. Anyone telling you differently is either interested in getting it cheaper or you just arent patient enough waiting for the right ass for the seat.

I asked someone else this question not too long ago and I'll ask it here. Obviously the value of anything, in this sense a 98 Truck, is what someone is willing to give you for it. But just like confidence of picking up a girl, if you kick it around and tell everyone how much a POS it is, and its been nothing but a headache, blah blah blah.. and you dont think the trucks worth even a $150 repair. Good God, if the truck had feelings it go to the store and buy a new rope just to climb up on a roof and hang itself its self esteem would be so low and negative in thought.

Is that mean if anyone offered you a $100 over your repair costs the trucks for sale?

I mean for $150-180 or even less, even if I paid full retail I could make BOTH sides like what I showed you above I did

ANDDDDD...

it would be an upgrade, NOT some chinese OEM replacement part

Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 07:23 am by Undrstm8ed



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"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
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"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Wed Oct 10th, 2018 06:27 pm
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Actually this is the other less driven Ranger that we have. It's a 1993 2.3 5-spd very similar in style to my 98 but it's a 5-Speed. It's an XLT but has almost no worthwhile options except a/c. But even if we tried to sell it privately it would be hard to get $500 because of how rough it is. Mechanically it all works for the most part. But the engine, transmission, rear end, suspension have either 350,000 or 450,000 miles on it. We lost count because the odometer doesn't have the sixth digit like they did on the later models. The interior is trashed. Carpet is torn, seat is missing the armrest bin and is torn all the way across the driver's seat, the shifter is missing the knob and is sloppy. The fuel gauge doesn't work, the a/c quit working because of some leaks. The body is the worst. It was hit on the passenger side and it pushed in on the fender and door right at the gap so the door doesn't open easily. The bed on the same side has a huge dent where it was hit. The bumper is missing the trim up front and now the grille is missing. The wiper motor burned up again. It's mostly used as a yard truck. So before I shell out $200 for an NOS cable if I can even find one now I'm going to try to make it work. Or worst case scenario the repair shop I go to said he could make a new one for over half that price. Right now it seems to be working the way I've got it. I seriously doubt someone would be willing to pay $1000 for it once you see it.

Last edited on Wed Oct 10th, 2018 06:31 pm by wh23g3g



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