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What could cause this #: 1054

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 10:25 pm

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VelociRanger
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In the pic the truck was running and I was driving down the road, but then the check engine light comes on and the rpms and engine speed, along with the odometer and temp guage and it just kicked off, then after about 30 minutes it did it again. Everything electrical works fine. I checked the fuses and they look good. I know my alternator is going out, possible issue? Thanks.

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 10:36 pm

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Dreaded sled
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Possibly . Just make sure all you grounds are connected right and positives. How do you know the alts bad . Has it been tested

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Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2018 10:39 pm

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VelociRanger
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Dreaded sled wrote:
How do you know the alts bad . Has it been tested
While I'm driving, usually long distances or if I'm racing around, after a while the battery light flickers on and at night my lights will dim. On a side note, if I keep the a.c. off the battery light doesn't come on as quick.

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 01:01 am

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VelociRanger
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UPDATE: replaced a fuse, guess I missed one. Truck will not start, gauges still show nothing like in the pic. Truck will not turn over, no clicking noise. It doesn't even want to try to turn over. I just replaced starter like 2 months ago. Anyone have a picture of their fuse box on a newer 2.3l manual trans, it could be possible I have fuse in wrong spot. Thanks

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 01:43 pm

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410customs

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Dang! What? Sounds like a bad battery cable or terminal to me
Alternator is easy to remove and have tested. FYI re-manufactured alternators last weeks not years, buy new never reman starter or alt

Most common things that can cause truck electrics to cut out while driving:
battery terminal/cables
Bad ignition switch in steering column (rare)
bad batt/ bad alternator or the wiring between them

Fuses blow and do not come back

Last edited on Sat Jul 14th, 2018 01:43 pm by 410customs

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 02:26 pm

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Check your wiring connections on your starter.

Just a wild eyed guess...

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 06:19 pm

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VelociRanger
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While I was driving all other electric worked; a.c., radio, windshield washers fluid spray, windshield wipers, blinkers, everything. Just the rpms, odomoter, and speedometer don't work and now the truck won't start. I checked wires on the starter and they were good, battery as well.

Last edited on Sat Jul 14th, 2018 06:20 pm by VelociRanger

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 09:34 pm

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Do you own a volt meter

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 09:55 pm

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VelociRanger
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No sir I do not. I have a friend that owns an obd2 scanner, I'm going to pick him up and see if he can get a code. The check engine light comes on, so maybe that will help

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 10:01 pm

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Buy a volt meter. Any hardware store or any auto parts store has them, you can pick up a simple one for less than 20 bucks. You will thank me several times later after that purchase LOL.

Your problems might be un related but from the same "place" if that makes sense.

Alternators will not cause the car to not start. I don't think your alternator is bad I believe there is a wiring issue which would account for the lights dimming also. If the alternator is bad and acts as you stated, it might pass a test at the auto parts store so it would be hard to tell but even if it is going bad that is not your immediate problem.

With the car off check battery voltage. It should be over 12, like 12.6. If it is under 12 how far under? If over 12 go to next step.

In the PDU fuse box under the hood there are 2 big identical relays, 47 and 48. Switch them. One is starter and one is radiator fan almost impossible for them both to be bad. See if it cranks over. IF it cranks over replace the relay that WAS in slot 48 (starter) because if it does start after switching your truck will overheat while in line at McDonalds.

Start here and if that doesn't net anything we will go deeper.

It is possible for a fuse to appear good and be blown or have a mechanical failure at the contact legs. Any fuse you "check" pull it out and check it with an ohm meter (function included in volt meters :) )

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Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 10:04 pm

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VelociRanger
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10-4 thanks. I will most likely get the meter tomorrow or later today, but also will try to get a code read. Hopefully both will net us some information.

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:50 am

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VelociRanger
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NEW UPDATE: Got the obd2 reader, it's shows "error" after trying to read it. After multiple tries, still shows error (possible error meaning: truck's computer is not sending any feedback to device, can't communicate with each other). Then, magically, the truck is good then starts and everything works again. I let it idle, let it warm up, still good. Turn it off, scan obd2, 0 CODES!!...turn the truck back on, 5 minutes after it's warm, does the whole guage thing again and truck won't start again. Check obd2 again, another error sign....anybody want a 2008 ford ranger lol?

Last edited on Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:52 am by VelociRanger

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:56 am

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Reader

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:57 am

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VelociRanger
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Trucks gauges (note the temp guage should read that it's warm)

Attachment: 20180714_195818.jpg (Downloaded 40 times)

Last edited on Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:58 am by VelociRanger

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 12:59 am

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Error code meaning

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 03:09 am

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I would buy it in 10 seconds :)

Frankly it is starting to look like a pinched or rotted wire somewhere.

Have you had any work done to it like heater door or heater core replacement or steering column work or... possibly a radio.

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 03:58 am

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Since I bought it the only thing that's been done is new starter, spark plugs, oil changes, window replacement (my brother dropped the truck into a ditch) and tires. I've cut the exhaust off, but this problem was happening before that, and literally the only thing that came off was the muffler. Still has both cats and everything. Radio was in when I bought it, wasn't doing this till recently; about a couple months ago. But, today I took my owners manual and went out there, looked at all fuse locations and checked they were the right fuses, they were good. I then thought "what if it's something so ridiculously stupidly simple that I'm missing" and then disconnected the battery...the terminals had some sort of harden goop like crap on them, probably dielectric grease; cleaned both terminals and cables and guess what? Truck now starts every time :) code reader showed 0 CODES, gauges work now...time will tell. Tomorrow I'm getting under the truck to look for loose/pinched/exposed wires.

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 02:08 pm

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"Most common things that can cause truck electrics to cut out while driving:
battery terminal/cables"

From earlier in the thread

BEEN THERE DONE THAT
Glad you may have found the issue

I recently purchased a 94 Ranger extended cab 4.0 4x4 with 160K miles....stopped running for the guy, I paid $300
I winched it onto my trailer
I drove it off and it still starts runs and drives right now.... it was the battery terminals
so important that they are clean and good as you now can see

Yes I would buy a 2008 Ranger :)

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 05:14 pm

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VelociRanger
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Yeah, now that I think about it my battery could be dying. And I've thought about selling it, but I won't get what I need for it so I'm just going to keep it

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Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 10:27 pm

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If it had connection issues that are now cleared up the alternator should be charging it properly. Drive it and see how it works out.

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Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 05:40 am

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VelociRanger
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Last edited on Mon Jul 16th, 2018 05:41 am by VelociRanger

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Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 05:40 am

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VelociRanger
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Update: battery light still comes on :verymad

Last edited on Mon Jul 16th, 2018 06:00 am by VelociRanger

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Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 02:34 pm

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battery light on = no charging from alternator

You need to test the alternator first
and check the alternator fuse (yes there is a fuse)

Last edited on Mon Jul 16th, 2018 02:34 pm by 410customs

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When my alternator went bad in my 2000 Ranger it was early AM & I had the lights on, the lights got dim, the CEL came on, the tach quit, & IIRC the gauges were reading very low. I tested the alternator with a digital volt meter & the output of the alternator was about 10.5 volts. Once I replaced the alternator all was good.

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Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 06:48 pm

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VelociRanger
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Mike69 wrote:
When my alternator went bad in my 2000 Ranger it was early AM & I had the lights on, the lights got dim, the CEL came on, the tach quit, & IIRC the gauges were reading very low. I tested the alternator with a digital volt meter & the output of the alternator was about 10.5 volts. Once I replaced the alternator all was good.
That's exactly what's happening to mine

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