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Clutch Replacement       #: 1033
 Moderated by: Mike69, MaDMaXX
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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 03:44 am
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VelociRanger
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I'm about due for a clutch replacement (I think the one I have is the one it had new? I bought my truck used and have 30k on it and they could've replaced it) and I don't want to spend $800 to get it replaced from a shop. I know it's $800 because I talked to a guy who went to a local shop here and had his done and he has an older 2.3l 5 speed and he said that's how much it was. Anyways, how hard is the clutch to do? Could someone who's only done preventative maintenance (rotors, pads, calipers, wheel bearings, oil, plugs, leaf spring shackles are all I've done) do it at home without a lift? Any special tools needed? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys and gals.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 03:47 am
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VelociRanger
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Also are there any special things I need to know about my truck to in order to purchase the right clutch kit? I want to do a stage 2 clutch so I can have better grab for quick shifts (I'm a "pro backroads racer "lol) and would I have to know anything special? Or would a stage 2 not give enough clutch slip and could I harm the trans? Thanks again.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 04:31 am
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I haven't done a Ranger with a manual tranny and hydrolic clutch. That said, I have done many Ford and Chevy clutch and tranny replacements. My thoughts are if you are competent doing a brake job you should have the skills necessary for a clutch replacement.

The flywheel should be resurfaced and a transmission jack makes it easier. The only "special" tool you might need is a clutch alignment tool and they are fairly cheep. I also recommend a rebuild of the slave cylinder.

I am sure others will chime in with additional suggestions.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 06:28 am
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12° North Industries
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VelociRanger wrote:
Also are there any special things I need to know about my truck to in order to purchase the right clutch kit? I want to do a stage 2 clutch so I can have better grab for quick shifts (I'm a "pro backroads racer "lol) and would I have to know anything special? Or would a stage 2 not give enough clutch slip and could I harm the trans? Thanks again.

When sourcing a replacement clutch outside the norms of OEM or stock replacement, when considering upgrades a clutch replacement should be based upon the amount of torque being established, not horsepower or feel. If you were seeking boosted options in the realm of say the 2.3L Turbo, then the conversation would deviate to a slanted conversation but still on par with the TQ curve of the power plant involved.

Then the next item to determine is pedal pressure whether that is higher or lower. For example, Exedy Clutches A.K.A. Daiken Clutch (found in over 70% of worldwide vehicles), Fidanza, even the all to popular but dated "centerforce" clutch has a more OEM type feel to it: although I would not put a Centerforce in anything ever again. same you will find in the 90% or so clutches made for the Ranger as the majority are made by the same company LUK, well at least the pressure plates are, more companies may be offering their own compounds of materials for the clutch plate materials but not too many. Most are re-boxed products with their own name on it.

Companies like Clutch Masters, ACT, MOPAR, have a much higher peddle pressure feel making the daily grind a bit more of a workout.

So keep that in mind while doing your research. You'll find the majority of the clutches being offered for the Ranger being produced like I said by LUK whether OEM or performance related.

Just to toss it in there too, most kits sold will come with a clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and clutch alignment tool in the box although almost all of those items can be sold separately.

Last edited on Sat Jul 7th, 2018 06:39 am by 12° North Industries



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 06:55 am
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VelociRanger
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As for hp and torque, it's bone stock right now but would like to add a turbo with rods pistons and all the fun stuff. I just want a bigger stage clutch so it will take a little more wear, as well as already having a good clutch for the power adders. As far as pedal feel, that doesn't bother me. I would actually like a firmer pedal, honestly. Seems a tad soft. Thanks for the help



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 07:20 am
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More than likely you wont be using that trans for long and even under temporary uses, you'll do more to ruin that clutch trying to slip it for the daily grind than make it of any real value. High/low pedal feel is where the clutch engagement is either near the top or the bottom, not the pressure of the pedal itself. That's a whole other animal, mostly possibly due to a worn clutch slave cylinder action and the sadly chincy clamped hose and reservoir system given to our Rangers. Otherwise a Stainless Steel hose kit would cure much of that with a good and proper bleeding



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 09:13 am
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VelociRanger
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12° North Industries wrote:
More than likely you wont be using that trans for long and even under temporary uses, you'll do more to ruin that clutch trying to slip it for the daily grind than make it of any real value. High/low pedal feel is where the clutch engagement is either near the top or the bottom, not the pressure of the pedal itself. That's a whole other animal, mostly possibly due to a worn clutch slave cylinder action and the sadly chincy clamped hose and reservoir system given to our Rangers. Otherwise a Stainless Steel hose kit would cure much of that with a good and proper bleeding
Oh sorry, I though you meant with the pedal feel that it would be hard to press to engage. Apologies. I would prefer a firmer clutch just because...well I want it lol. But basically what I gather is that going with a stage 2 clutch would really be doing more harm than good without any power mods and an oem equivalent would be the best? Sorry if I'm not making sense or not getting the point, new to this area of mechanical stuff



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knowing when to quit is wisdom, being able to quit is courage.
2008 Ranger 2.3 5 speed, basically stock
1984 Ranger, currently in 587 pieces
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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 03:14 pm
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Get yourself a Luk gold Repset (driven disc pressure plate, pilot bearing, alignment tool), a LUK master cylinder, LUK slave cylinder and have at it. Clutch on a 4 banger can take about 3-5 hours total to change out for somebody who knows what they are doing and working slowly. For a first timer I would plan a whole weekend.

You can have the flywheel surfaced at a local shop and then press in a new pilot bearing.

You can buy the master cylinder/line and slave cylinder pre bled and assembled it takes out half of the guesswork
On your 4 cylinder engine you can drop the 5 speed SO EASY with the right tools
With the pre bled hydraulics you just install it, then bleed the slave 2-3 times, done.
LUK clutches are OEM quality and last like OEM, I have used them in all of our ford projects for many years including my 7.3 "shop" truck
DO NOT buy a cheapo deapo hydraulics set, you must use a good slave cylinder!!! NO Autozone or Oreilly cheapos in there!!!

Last edited on Sat Jul 7th, 2018 03:17 pm by 410customs



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