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Hard to get into 1st.       #: 1025
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 Posted: Thu Jul 5th, 2018 10:31 pm
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jeff18
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I let my daughter borrow my truck for the 4th, and it is now difficult to get it into 1st gear. Have to go to 2nd and then 1st. Not sure what happened, however something happened while she was using it, and was not doing this before then. 2.3 with 5 speed manual. Any ideas?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2018 12:59 am
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JAMMAN

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Does it grind with the clutch pushed in or does it feel like something is blocking it at the bottom of the shifter from entering that first gate?



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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2018 01:46 am
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410customs

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air bubble
Check fluid in clutch master cylinder reservoir level


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc



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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2018 07:09 pm
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jeff18
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Feels like something is physically blocking the lever from going into the gear. Pull it back into second, which takes some finagling, and then move into first. I can feel the lever bump along the way as it is moved into 2nd then 1st.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2018 09:06 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Mine does this too, has since i bought it, though if you're roling slightly when you put it in gear, it goes in smoothly.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 12:37 am
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JAMMAN

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It should be virtually effortless to put in first gear with the clutch engaged and the motor running.

Let's summon dreaded sled to this thread and see what's in his head. Word.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 01:06 am
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Dreaded sled
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In most cases I’d have to drive it . But kinda sounds like a cracked shift fork as of now. How does it act in other gears . Cause the shift fork controls a couple of gears each . Over throwing on quick shifts cause this to happen and applying to much pressure at the end of the throw. What year is it buy chance



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 01:26 am
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jeff18
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All other gears are fine. Model year 2009. This is what happens when one loans their vehicle out. Does not bode well is the vibe I am getting.

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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 02:30 am
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Mine does the exact same thing, and mine has the same engine and trans (2.3l 5 speed) and mine is only 1 year older (2008) and I've found that if you don't fully put it into 2nd, but just slightly bump 2nd and go into 1st it works 9/10 times. Maybe it's just those couple of years that have that issue? Would like to see what 2007-10 owners have to say, but I agree with Dreaded Sled on this one and say it's the shift fork. Hasn't gotten any worse/better, so I haven't fixed it. Probably should though lol



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 03:19 am
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Guys it isn't just "they are like that" there is something wrong that can be repaired.

I remember a long time ago on a friends astre station wagon I pulled it out of first while it was sitting flat without the engine running by reaching through the window. Screwed it up big time almost the exact same symptom but it was REAL hard to get into first and reverse was impossible. So the cracked fork theory holds water.



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 05:18 am
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VelociRanger
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I think everyone else was saying it could be fixed, I was the one saying "it's just like that" but just because mine the same thing and we basically have the same truck drivetrain wise. Sorry for the confusion



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 06:53 am
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MaDMaXX

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Don't forget, mine is a 2002 with the same issue.  I'm assuming there aren't really many boxes.



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 08:00 am
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jeff18
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I'd like to assume the shift fork is bad for the sake of argument. Under this assumption, how in the world does it go from working fine to going bad in a day? What did my daughter do to cause this? Or is this simply coincidence?

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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 08:07 am
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VelociRanger
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If she knows how to drive a stick (assuming she does, and we'll enough you let her borrow the thing) she may have just pushed it too far forward in first or in one of the other gears the shift fork also manipulates in first (like Dreaded Sled said, they control a couple of years each) by mistake, possibly while talking to a friend and driving, eating and driving, or just all around distracted driving. If she doesn't know how or it's been a while, she may have just over thrown the shift. Now, I am by NO MEANS a full blown mechanic, just my .02 and everyone knows how much that's worth lol



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 08:08 am
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VelociRanger
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MaDMaXX wrote:
Don't forget, mine is a 2002 with the same issue.  I'm assuming there aren't really many boxes.
What do you mean by boxes?



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 02:23 pm
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410customs

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CHECK FOR AN AIR BUBBLE IN THE HYDRAULICS seriously it happens. A TINY bubble can get trapped in the master cylinder and cause this, the ranger master cylinder is flawed in this manner.
You can measure your clutch travel and find out if it is the clutch or the trans having the issue.
I have SAVED many many many 5 speed trucks this way. Even shops who replace clutches have this issue and are not familiar with the ranger platform and cannot get the last bubble out, bring it to me and 20 minutes later the new clutch works as it should..........
I used to run an add on Craigslist telling Ranger/Explorer owners that have a hard time getting into 1, especially after a new clutch or a leaky slave, or if the fluid got low for $100 I can fix the truck when they cant. I fixed quite a few of them....nothing like making $100 in 15 minutes

Now days THIS IS ALL OVER YOUTUBE

Last edited on Sat Jul 7th, 2018 02:28 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 06:00 pm
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Dreaded sled
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Rangers hydro setups are  ty to deal with . I usually pull the master out and flip it up side down as much as possible and just keep pumping. Customers rangers I never have a problem with . When I converted to t5 with a hydro setup using a new stock ranger master and a 280z slave and an fittings and line. I wanted to smash my head against the fender cause of air . Had a vac on it tryin to pull air out from both sides finally it just took going back to what I normally do on customers but for like a damn hour lol be my luck , can fix everyone else’s rides but my own 🤦🏻‍♂️



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 Posted: Sat Jul 7th, 2018 07:30 pm
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JAMMAN

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jeff18 wrote:
I'd like to assume the shift fork is bad for the sake of argument. Under this assumption, how in the world does it go from working fine to going bad in a day? What did my daughter do to cause this? Or is this simply coincidence?
It was probably an accident I don't know her but nobody wants to screw up a transmission. She probably pushed into first without depressing the clutch all the way or possibly stalled it and didn't know, then tried to put it in gear. OR perhaps it was very worn and it was just "its time". Virtually impossible to tell, you could probably get some mechanical forensics expert to figure it out but it would cost  :)



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00 XLT 4WD RCSB 3.GO! Jalapeño
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99 XL 4WD RCSB 3.0 PJ (Plain Jane)
00 XLT 2WD RC Steppie 2.5 Dee Dee

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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 05:44 am
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MaDMaXX

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I'm curious if i have the air bubble as i've always thought it felt a little different, i've had my vacuum on it and i think i pulled some air, but nothing more.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 01:33 pm
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you can bleed or vacuum all day, there is one bubble that gets trapped in the top of the master cylinder, no amount of bleeding or pulling will free it, you must remove it by changing the angle of the master cylinder and tapping on the side of it....you can watch tiny bubbles come up into the reservoir and if you get enough of them or one just a bit smaller then a pea....well then your clutch will finally let you into 1 and R

There are a few different ways to release it, one of them is to actually take the master cylinder apart real quick in the truck, hopefully not getting brake fluid all over your carpet and then put the lid back on.. I prefer the other way, simply remove it from the firewall, move it so the air bubble is no longer at the tip top, then tap on the side of it until the bubble appears...takes like 10-15 minutes.
I must have fixed about 10 trucks this way, including some of our own.
Before the internet was here and we shared information, I wish I knew about this bubble. I changed my clutch 3 times one summer and my 5 speed twice, even had a custom driven disc built, and still did not act right. I ended up converting from the M5OD to a A4LD because I did not know this trick. Years later I learned and then realized what what happening to the hydraulics all those years ago...

Last edited on Mon Jul 9th, 2018 01:37 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 06:14 pm
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MaDMaXX

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I haven't been under to look at mine most of this year, too much real life going on, but i'm thinking the master cylinder is all in the engine bay?

Any recommendations on direction of tipping? how far over? need to empty some of the reservoir?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 06:31 pm
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410customs

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no leave res full to the line, remove rubber bladder so you can watch for bubbles
Really helps to remove or loose the inner fender skirt here
and pry it out of the way
Loosen master cyl from pedal and firewall (rangers have at least 3 different mount methods for the master cyl, the later model ones simply twist) push it into engine bay
flip master so the fluid feed line is at top and the push rod is at bottom, tap on the side of it with screwdriver as you try to depress the push rod. Usually just rapping on the side of the master cyl will release some bubbles

One pea sized bubble or many many small bubbles (like pin drop) will make a world of difference here

For stubborn units I will also remove the hyd line from the slave cylinder, hang the whole system on the wall.
Just like if the system is new and being bench bled.......
hang it on the wall like in the video above  and two of us will bleed it while rapping on the line with larger screwdriver.
Sometimes you will be amazed at how much air comes out even when you thought it had already been bled
I have spent 5 minutes and I have spent 45 minutes bench bleeding the master before I was satisfied there was no bubble

a properly bled master and line can be attached to the slave, then it just takes 2-3 bleeds on the slave and you are done

Last edited on Mon Jul 9th, 2018 06:34 pm by 410customs



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 06:33 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Great, so it's inside the cab then?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 06:35 pm
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no you remove it from the pedal and the firewall, whole system is in engine bay.......



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 Posted: Mon Jul 9th, 2018 07:01 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Re-read your edited post, makes more sense now, thanks. Hopefully i can get enough out without bench bleeding it, don't have the time right now.



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