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Undrstm8ed 93' Ranger "Overlanding" build...       #: 74
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 Posted: Mon Jan 15th, 2018 11:05 pm
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So in other news..

Locally just found finally a 4BTa Cummins that's affordable to throw in the newer and soon to be modded 4x4 frame. I should be going this week sometime to check it out get some numbers off of it and find out also if its got the VE or the P Pump on it and if its what I want and make an offer on it and see if he accepts it.

I dont want an engine from an Agricultural machine or a mounted unit for something else. I need one out of a "on road" vehicle application..

Fingers crossed !!



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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 Posted: Tue Jan 16th, 2018 04:51 am
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Wait, you *don't* want a tractor engine? :P

Hope the deal works for you, curious about the diesel application here, i come from the land of   diesel engines. Though i still hate them ;)



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2002 - 3.0 - 4x2 - Edge

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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 06:48 pm
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Scrambler82
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Nice truck, body look great.

How is the CB and the CB Antenna System working out ?



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 07:55 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote: Nice truck, body look great.

How is the CB and the CB Antenna System working out ?

Thanks, for a 93' its in great shape! but its blue and fading which is fine for now. Within a year it will be undergoing a dramatic color change and scheme, perhaps even get to swap out the rear for a Norweld rear UTE tray, seen here Norweld Aluminum Tray w/Canopy

Then I can transfer the "Flip-Pac" over to an extra-cab project I want to do with it.


As for the CB, works great so far. Out in the open I get out farther than some of the people in my groups than I can hear back. Still haven't determined whether or not that is an issue on my end (receiving) or on their end of transmitting.

A good friend of mine from Sweden, here on a school visa whom has taken an almost comical take to wheeling and off-roading. He is using a old school Cobra 29 classic with a Fire stick off the side of the rear of his 1G Nissan Xterra, and sometimes when he is behind me a distance, he doesn't get out as well but I come in like gang-busters. His vehicle seems to be more biased to the rear than equal. It is better now that we took an SWR meter to it and calibrated it better.

I do use the CB with a couple groups I frequent with, the GMRS 2-way with some closer niche friends, and eventually I'll get my icom 5100 H.A.M. unit in there.. CB doesnt seem to be the "thing" anymore like it was back in the 80-90's even. My father was really into it back then himself, base and mobile wise.

That iCOM 5100 Unit has a detachable face feature if you will that allows for remote installations, its replacing the rear view mirror in the near future on a modified mirror mount and RAM mount setup.
from outside, still looks like a rear view mirror.

Last edited on Fri Jan 26th, 2018 07:59 pm by Undrstm8ed



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 27th, 2018 12:01 am
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The 4BT is a tough engine. I have a buddy that put one in his Bronco back in the late 90's. It had about the same HP as the 302 that came out but had gobs of torque and got much better fuel mileage.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 27th, 2018 02:15 am
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yes sir... And depending on how the first one goes, may be a small fleet of them in the next two Rangers and if the VQ40 in the 2G Xterra starts to show signs of separation anxieties of life support. She'll be next in line. But she will be last in line since the wear is an easy 350-400K vehicle as long as you take care of it.

I now have the problem of several fires going and having to regroup my thoughts and priorities and reorganize them right now with necessities over projects.. [sigh]



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 27th, 2018 06:12 pm
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Scrambler82
New Audio On The Way !


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Undrstm8ed wrote:  [highlight= rgb(39, 39, 39);]perhaps even get to swap out the rear for a Norweld rear UTE tray, 
As for the CB, works great so far. Out in the open I get out farther than some of the people in my groups than I can hear back. Still haven't determined whether or not that is an issue on my end (receiving) or on their end of transmitting.

A good friend of mine from Sweden, here on a school visa whom has taken an almost comical take to wheeling and off-roading. He is using a old school Cobra 29 classic with a Fire stick off the side of the rear of his 1G Nissan Xterra, and sometimes when he is behind me a distance, he doesn't get out as well but I come in like gang-busters. His vehicle seems to be more biased to the rear than equal. It is better now that we took an SWR meter to it and calibrated it better.

I do use the CB with a couple groups I frequent with, the GMRS 2-way with some closer niche friends, and eventually I'll get my icom 5100 H.A.M. unit in there.. CB doesnt seem to be the "thing" anymore like it was back in the 80-90's even. My father was really into it back then himself, base and mobile wise.

That iCOM 5100 Unit has a detachable face feature if you will that allows for remote installations, 

OK on the HAM Rig, can't beat a good FM VHF or an HF with the right antennas.    I use an older Kenwood 741 Tri-Band VHF/UHF, High Power, Unit...  it has the added feature of what I call a "Frequency Box" which adds another three Bands to the unit.  so I am in the 2Meter, 220 Mhz, 440 Mhz, 6 meters and 10 meters, all FM !  This unit covers everything I do in everyday communications, Emergency Communications, Communications with the Red Cross, Police, and Fire.  It is getting old but I have a local Shop that works on nothing but Kenwood and has a specialist that does the 741s.
CBs are getting old and not many companies make them anymore but there are a few; so for a while it is an alternative and there are the Import CBs.The reason you hear better to the rear with your CB, i.e. "your buddy saying you come in ing busters", is because of your antenna mounting location.  You mounted it on the front fender which give the major mass of grounding towards the rear and in turn better transmitting and receiving towards the rear.  If you were to mount the antenna to center mass of the truck you would get a better all around transmit and receive, the power goes to the grounding mass and the higher the better with antennas.
I wonder sometimes about the mounting locations people chose but usually don't say much, just thinking out loud.   How did the SWR setting go ?  Sometime Hood Mounting of the antenna throws the SWR for a Loop... !Is the Antenna Mount grounded ?
I like your truck, the Norweld Setup looks interesting, can only think BIG $$$ !
Luck with the project and keep the picture coming.

Last edited on Sat Jan 27th, 2018 06:14 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Sun Jan 28th, 2018 03:30 am
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Scrambler82 wrote: Undrstm8ed wrote:  [highlight= rgb(39, 39, 39);]perhaps even get to swap out the rear for a Norweld rear UTE tray, 
As for the CB, works great so far. Out in the open I get out farther than some of the people in my groups than I can hear back. Still haven't determined whether or not that is an issue on my end (receiving) or on their end of transmitting.

A good friend of mine from Sweden, here on a school visa whom has taken an almost comical take to wheeling and off-roading. He is using a old school Cobra 29 classic with a Fire stick off the side of the rear of his 1G Nissan Xterra, and sometimes when he is behind me a distance, he doesn't get out as well but I come in like gang-busters. His vehicle seems to be more biased to the rear than equal. It is better now that we took an SWR meter to it and calibrated it better.

I do use the CB with a couple groups I frequent with, the GMRS 2-way with some closer niche friends, and eventually I'll get my icom 5100 H.A.M. unit in there.. CB doesnt seem to be the "thing" anymore like it was back in the 80-90's even. My father was really into it back then himself, base and mobile wise.

That iCOM 5100 Unit has a detachable face feature if you will that allows for remote installations, 

OK on the HAM Rig, can't beat a good FM VHF or an HF with the right antennas.    I use an older Kenwood 741 Tri-Band VHF/UHF, High Power, Unit...  it has the added feature of what I call a "Frequency Box" which adds another three Bands to the unit.  so I am in the 2Meter, 220 Mhz, 440 Mhz, 6 meters and 10 meters, all FM !  This unit covers everything I do in everyday communications, Emergency Communications, Communications with the Red Cross, Police, and Fire.  It is getting old but I have a local Shop that works on nothing but Kenwood and has a specialist that does the 741s.
CBs are getting old and not many companies make them anymore but there are a few; so for a while it is an alternative and there are the Import CBs.The reason you hear better to the rear with your CB, i.e. "your buddy saying you come in ing busters", is because of your antenna mounting location.  You mounted it on the front fender which give the major mass of grounding towards the rear and in turn better transmitting and receiving towards the rear.  If you were to mount the antenna to center mass of the truck you would get a better all around transmit and receive, the power goes to the grounding mass and the higher the better with antennas.
I wonder sometimes about the mounting locations people chose but usually don't say much, just thinking out loud.   How did the SWR setting go ?  Sometime Hood Mounting of the antenna throws the SWR for a Loop... !Is the Antenna Mount grounded ?
I like your truck, the Norweld Setup looks interesting, can only think BIG $$$ !
Luck with the project and keep the picture coming.

The HAM is sorta new to me, still need to take the testing for it too. What antenna did you use with that setup; and was it mobile or base rig?

And For sometime what you describe as the CB condition I was under the impression was working in the "opposite" fashion but same as you described. (o.O) ?
After I got done tweaking it I got a 1:1.2 I think was on ch40 and a 1:1.4 on ch1 and that was achieved after I dialed in the two "tuning rings" near the base of the antenna there.

I picked up a great ring style cable from Right Channel Radios. The way the cable attaches is perfect for not having to deal with ends going bad or catching on things going through the trails.. and especially worked well for the way I needed to route things. I didn't want 9 ft of extra cable coiled in the cab or even outside of it.

I would have loved to put it right on top. However, the problem with that is I cant with the Flip-Pac on top as of now and I wanted a semi-permanent fixture for the most part. Didn't want to have to chance having to SWR calibrate it every time I picked up the magnet mount and didn't put it EXACTLY back where it was and even then I think once you break that initial bond, it can throw things off a bit. At least that's what it seems it does on an older  buddy of mines GMC Sierra setup.

When the Flip-Pac is used it folds open over the rest of the cab and the hood area for a Queen sized bed up top and well not too many antennas would survive the less than 4" gap left from it and the roof itself. Plus I have a thing about drilling holes in roofs to an extent. If I am going to drill any holes in that roof it will be under the final decision to modify the roof for a universal rack which isnt going to happen on this setup until after I swap the UTE tray for the Flip-Pac setup onto another truck as I mentioned before.

Anyone really deep into Radio or communication of CBs, 2-way, HAM, and accessories that wanted to start a business doing so would DO WELL here in Vegas. There is NO ONE but 1 guy who does any CB work whether repair, some slight new sales, and installation here. A radio city or something needs to be put here. With all the trucking and freight liners that roll through the Vegas hub, you'd mop up I think.. well for a few more years anyhow. lol

As for the UTE tray.. yea its not much more than what my Flip-Pac was new.. but the possibilities and features are nearly endless, the weight is far-far less, the capabilities, and the uniqueness alone make it worth it to me. I would use the   out of it !



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
.
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 Posted: Mon Jan 29th, 2018 12:21 am
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Scrambler82
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Lets see what I can answer.
The HAM is sorta new to me, still need to take the testing for it too. What antenna did you use with that setup; and was it mobile or base rig?
In the Truck I used a Mobile Kenwood 741 Try-Bander, with a Diamond Sri-Band Antenna, 144/220/440 and a Diamond 6 and 10 Meter, both antennas are top of the line in quality and of course $$$ !The HAM Radio is not reinstalled since the move but will be soon using the same but new, Antennas.

And For sometime what you describe as the CB condition I was under the impression was working in the "opposite" fashion but same as you described. (o.O) ? 
People for some reason, think the Antenna will radiate the same no matter where it is mounted.  The problem  with that is, if there isn't a good reflective ground plane for the signal to bounce off of, some of the signal will be absorbed in the ground, hubs less signal getting out  in that direction !The best location to mount an antenna on a mobile setup for general communications, would be the center of the vehicle as high as possible.


After I got done tweaking it I got a 1:1.2 I think was on ch40 and a 1:1.4 on ch1 and that was achieved after I dialed in the two "tuning rings" near the base of the antenna there.
Sounds like a great SWR.  I like to set the SWR for lowest reading, with the Radio set on the frequency/channel you work the most... Amateur Radio or CB.


I picked up a great ring style cable from Right Channel Radios. The way the cable attaches is perfect for not having to deal with ends going bad or catching on things going through the trails.. and especially worked well for the way I needed to route things. I didn't want 9 ft of extra cable coiled in the cab or even outside of it.
I agree on extra cable... no need !  I don't like the idea behind the Ring Connector Cable, but also, I have never used one, so good luck with them !I'm still stuck on the Ring Lugs and Screw Mount, maintains the 50 ohm resistance of the coax.


I would have loved to put it right on top. However, the problem with that is I cant with the Flip-Pac on top as of now and I wanted a semi-permanent fixture for the most part. Didn't want to have to chance having to SWR calibrate it every time I picked up the magnet mount and didn't put it EXACTLY back where it was and even then I think once you break that initial bond, it can throw things off a bit. At least that's what it seems it does on an older  buddy of mines GMC Sierra setup. When the Flip-Pac is used it folds open over the rest of the cab and the hood area for a Queen sized bed up top and well not too many antennas would survive the less than 4" gap left from it and the roof itself. Plus I have a thing about drilling holes in roofs to an extent. If I am going to drill any holes in that roof it will be under the final decision to modify the roof for a universal rack which isnt going to happen on this setup until after I swap the UTE tray for the Flip-Pac setup onto another truck as I mentioned before.
I now understand the Mounting, thought out !

Anyone really deep into Radio or communication of CBs, 2-way, HAM, and accessories that wanted to start a business doing so would DO WELL here in Vegas. There is NO ONE but 1 guy who does any CB work whether repair, some slight new sales, and installation here. A radio city or something needs to be put here. With all the trucking and freight liners that roll through the Vegas hub, you'd mop up I think.. well for a few more years anyhow. lolAs for the UTE tray.. yea its not much more than what my Flip-Pac was new.. but the possibilities and features are nearly endless, the weight is far-far less, the capabilities, and the uniqueness alone make it worth it to me. I would use the   out of it !
[size=Sounds good, again keep the pictures coming !]

Last edited on Mon Jan 29th, 2018 12:22 am by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 06:56 am
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Been a bit busy and as always too many irons in the fire but while out scouring the crappy salvage yards for a replacement seat belt I came across an opportunity to pilfer a early 2002 Mercury Grand Marquis for the near elusive AM80S dual tone horns. Makes it a little bit louder than the standard horn and necessary here as a feature in Vegas traffic and damn Uber drivers... grrrr!




If anyone is interested I could do a complete write up as I took enough pics but this is just a small honorable mention at this point of a small mod.



As for the latest in updates; I had ordered a couple things through 12* Degrees of course.. I am still waiting on the snorkel to come available and ship so I can make sure all my clearances are correct for the next task of both its installation and that of the ARB On Board Air compressor which did come in that I got a pretty decent deal on. Still debating the orientation due to some unknowns on the snorkel kits exact routing needs and the fact that I will be routing extra lines.





I was thinking of a couple ideas regarding snorkel hose routing, additional lines ran for front and rear attachments for hose airlines. I decided that the individual wheel wells was something I just didn't feel like doing and was completely overkill after all. I also was taking into consideration the addition of mounting the air filter like element intake also higher up and farther back on the firewall, heat sources of course and as well ingressed water into the engine bay.



 More than enough wiring to the battery. ONLY thing I don't care for is the fuse being so far away in the ARB harness from the battery connection. So I think in the end scheme of things I am going to rework the ARB harness and follow through with my routing of it in the basic sense at least after that change. I was going to mount the fuse holder provided in the location seen below, but again for such a high current device and the necessity of having to follow the header panel harness like the factory one. There should be enough room to do so.




I was gonna use a longer SS bolt, stainless spacer, and use it to continue to hold the harness that crosses in front of the radiator with it still. But then I want to keep the fuse within that 12-18" of the battery.



Although there is an interesting passage in the upper part of the header panel too...




Outside of that, Pretty sure the relay could be placed out here although i really hate adding relays that arent waterproofed [yes i know I can do it myself and likely will], just saying I don't like adding to a failure level further. But it should be alright by the time I am done with it. It and the OBA will be on a bracket above the assumed snorkel hose routing and reduce some splash back I'm sure.



I've done a few other things just haven't been taking the time to post pics as much. I'll do better. lol



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
.
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 03:48 pm
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Scrambler82
New Audio On The Way !


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Undrstm8ed,

Wow, a lot of work to that in but I am assuming it is all for the good.

What are you doing with it, just air supply for general stuff or LOCKERS... ?

You helped me out a little, the pictures under the battery, I was wondering what was under there, I need to drill through for extra room for the Headlight Projectors, now I know... it can be done !

By the way... the Relay, mounted behind the battery, kind-of an out of the way location IF something goes wrong, hard to test it out !
Just saying !
Also, I am surprised that an ARB Relay isn't WaterProof !  You sure on that ?

Last edited on Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 03:49 pm by Scrambler82



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 08:25 pm
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MaDMaXX

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Everything i know says you need the fuse right up on the battery.

If i remember correctly, the outcome of a fire that destroyed someones Ranger was from a poorly placed fuse on their EFan mod - literally factory wiring for the mod kit, just placed the fuse too far from the battery.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 10:08 pm
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MaDMaXX wrote:
Everything i know says you need the fuse right up on the battery.

If i remember correctly, the outcome of a fire that destroyed someones Ranger was from a poorly placed fuse on their EFan mod - literally factory wiring for the mod kit, just placed the fuse too far from the battery.

Always high current draw components, the fuse should be as close to the supply point as possible... and of course, as being used, a Relay should be used.

The wire between the power source and the fuse can become red hot and first burn the sheathing then other things... !

The best thing to add with the fuse is an oversized wire for the main power, too big is good, too small is not so good !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 10:26 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:
Undrstm8ed,

Wow, a lot of work to that in but I am assuming it is all for the good.

What are you doing with it, just air supply for general stuff or LOCKERS... ?

You helped me out a little, the pictures under the battery, I was wondering what was under there, I need to drill through for extra room for the Headlight Projectors, now I know... it can be done !

By the way... the Relay, mounted behind the battery, kind-of an out of the way location IF something goes wrong, hard to test it out !
Just saying !
Also, I am surprised that an ARB Relay isn't WaterProof !  You sure on that ?


The OBA will be ARB's air-manifold for some ARB lockers eventually and for now is for airing up after airing down or just for the shear purpose of helping someone else out even at times. All about being self sufficient not to mention I think it was last week I was out on the other side of town, after 11pm, and i must have stopped by 11 gas stations before I found one that a) had a pump that worked b) had a air chuck to begin with c) had an air station that didn't require a $ .75to 1.50 for 2 mins of air.

I cannot believe that on this side of the world that so many places charge for air whereas 90% of the tire stores or gas stations back in Michigan always had free air and a line hanging even out of a bay door sometimes. Never do I recall ever paying for air. But here in Nevada, California, Arizona,.. and likely others where hospitality and convenience aren't a tradition but a marketing object.. And what really throws me for a loop. There are places that will turn ON the pump or give you "tokens" to give you FREE air but yet they have a till-box to collect from the idiots who don't know better or too lazy to walk inside and ask perhaps. I can't seem to wrap my head around that. Its like whats the point, outside of accidental profit? Racketeering? lol

Yea the horns are a bit louder now for sure now that everything is aimed forward and put back together. Glad there was some information for you to work with too. As far as the ARB relay; yup completely open on the bottom end. I'll just fill it with 100% silicone or hot glue gun it sealed and it should be fine. I've got a method with a pretty good track record I used to use when doing audio systems on boats that will work well.


MaDMaXX wrote:
Everything i know says you need the fuse right up on the battery.

If i remember correctly, the outcome of a fire that destroyed someones Ranger was from a poorly placed fuse on their EFan mod - literally factory wiring for the mod kit, just placed the fuse too far from the battery.



Yea there are enough of these strewn about on Pinterest and Instagram...^^^

As a young man (16'ish), I can recall being left stranded with a buddy of mine whose car burned down to the uni-body in a Sears parking lot when we were about 14 miles from home and back then 14 miles was far. lol I would never want to return back to that day..

The point of putting the fuse within that 12-18" of the battery is for the simple reason of if the fuse blows, because the circuit shorted out, it doesn't take the entire 6', 10', 18 foot long wires melting and catching on fire too before it stops. Which is another precept to replacing a fuse with a larger one. Its ok in some situations as a "get me home" necessity but not meant as a permanent solution, otherwise likely be in same situation of allowing the circuit to overload itself. It's just good practice.

Last edited on Mon Apr 2nd, 2018 10:28 pm by Undrstm8ed



____________________
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"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Mon Apr 16th, 2018 07:53 am
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Undrstm8ed wrote:







I was thinking of a couple ideas regarding snorkel hose routing, additional lines ran for front and rear attachments for hose airlines. I decided that the individual wheel wells was something I just didn't feel like doing and was completely overkill after all. I also was taking into consideration the addition of mounting the air filter like element intake also higher up and farther back on the firewall, heat sources of course and as well ingressed water into the engine bay.


So I got an email stating that my snorkel kit would be shipping before end of the month here so I decided I should start making preparations..

So today I spent a short bit mocking up my factory air box with utilizing some OEM parts and an idea I've been playing with. So far I am liking it in comparison to many of the hokey duct tape, PVC, and dryer vent ummm.. 'NOT' options in my opinion. There is definitely an advantage to being creative in the sense of not cutting corners and having a completely & properly sealed intake box and intake charge tube from the snorkel and I'm hoping to do a worthy write up of the whole process which will have to take priority before the OBA systems compressor bracket gets designed/fabbed appropriately.

Using the original airbox lower intake piece I disassembled the parts off of that would not be usable for my needs.



Cleaned up good.. rivets easily drilled out without melting the plastic too.



Like a glove ! well like an OJ glove but still a glove!!

 
Needing a little more heat to seal the bottom properly and then some black urethane or silicone should meet the needs
of water proofing up to this point and inside of the airbox itself.



Just the right offset to keep the snorkel piping/hose off the frame shotgun and keep airflow consistent.
Just need to seal the unit totally and test it for leaks and integrity.
 

More on this later when the snorkel comes in...



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Mon Apr 16th, 2018 04:37 pm
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Scrambler82
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Looks good, I am interested in seeing how you handle the snorkel, IF I ever get around to the 5.0, I wanted to add one just for the dusk on the back roads.

I didn't think there would be enough room or the compressor where you put it, should work out.

The idea of on-board air to assist is a good thing, airing down and up, always good to an air supply.
I have switchable mechanical locker in the rear the front is open but the air lockers were one of my choices.

Great project, keep the pictures coming !



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Tue Apr 17th, 2018 08:35 am
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Scrambler82 wrote:
Looks good, I am interested in seeing how you handle the snorkel, IF I ever get around to the 5.0, I wanted to add one just for the dusk on the back roads.

I didn't think there would be enough room or the compressor where you put it, should work out.

The idea of on-board air to assist is a good thing, airing down and up, always good to an air supply.
I have switchable mechanical locker in the rear the front is open but the air lockers were one of my choices.

Great project, keep the pictures coming !

Similar reasons, dust more so than water.. however.. lol I have seen my share of 30" of water without a snorkel.

Yea, I was having some doubts myself because I really wanted to mount the compressor sideways or horizontal vs being vertical because I wasn't quite sure where the flexible tubing was coming into play at other than through the inside of the fender and its lining. So if I had to come through the side wall of the inner fender, I wanted to have the room to finagle if you will without losing any real estate for each item. When done, there will be a dedicated line front and back of course so I don't have to pop the hood every time.

Yea the ARB air lockers upfront would do us both a world of good.. ! I also need a welder. Some upcoming projects are going to demand one or my cost factors for boxing in this new(er) frame and adding additional support are going to get costly, and by that I mean by more than just materials and I don't want to just hard face the frame. Just scares me a little because I know welding on the frame does mess with the rust resistance of the frame.



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Tue Apr 17th, 2018 02:54 pm
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Undrstm8ed wrote:


Similar reasons, dust more so than water.. however.. lol I have seen my share of 30" of water without a snorkel. 



Yea, I was having some doubts myself because I really wanted to mount the compressor sideways or horizontal vs being vertical because I wasn't quite sure where the flexible tubing was coming into play at other than through the inside of the fender and its lining. So if I had to come through the side wall of the inner fender, I wanted to have the room to finagle if you will without losing any real estate for each item. When done, there will be a dedicated line front and back of course so I don't have to pop the hood every time.




Yea the ARB air lockers upfront would do us both a world of good.. ! I also need a welder. Some upcoming projects are going to demand one or my cost factors for boxing in this new(er) frame and adding additional support are going to get costly, and by that I mean by more than just materials and I don't want to just hard face the frame. Just scares me a little because I know welding on the frame does mess with the rust resistance of the frame.








It should turn out nice, having the air on-board sound great.

Do they make a Snorkel Kit for a Ranger; I'm thinking exiting on the driver's side of the vehicle.


When welding, I've heard, keeping the ground as close to the welding point as possible reduces the impact on the electronics !

Some say it doesn't matter but I always thought, why worry about it... just do it !

The idea of "reducing the rust resistance", I've never herd that, have you heard why ?  
I have heard something about the frames are hardened and that welding can affect the hardness.  Not sure about it but just saying.

My frame and attachments have New England salted road affect, but not as bad as some.   There was a time I was thinking maybe a new frame... WTF, not a Ranger Frame but maybe an extended '76 Bronco Frame, and there is a company that makes them... funny !

Anyway, Luck on the projects, my House Projects keep getting in the way of the Ranger Projects.

Ltr



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Apr 20th, 2018 10:31 am
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As for the "other" things..

I picked up another light through 12° North Industries to play with in deciding WHAT light would work best. So far, I am a bit impressed with the 6" version of the G4SR LED light bar shown here. The sites alright on pics and I'm all sure we can fathom a 6" light but for comparisons..


I ordered it with a additional diffused lens, and sadly, I failed to take the pics of the spot lens it comes with. But I have time to do that tomorrow and amend this post with those too. By the time most read this I'll have already swapped the lenses out in preparation. Below, you can see the clear lens vs the installed diffused one.


So, I took a few interesting pics, sadly as good as my phone takes pics, night pics arent the greatest so I will say the pics do NO justice. You'd really have to see it for yourself to be honest. But in my attempt to wow folks.. Here goes.


Facing the light at about 30 meters or so. Here, it doesn't look like much considering its size.




I temporarily mounted the light just forward of center on the Flip-pac in consideration of a creative mount above it, or possibly making a flush mount box/cradle mount that would be cut into the side of it. This way I could eliminate a protruding device and have something flush mounted, a bit less obvious but also a way to adjust or even move the lights up and down for an up-close or distance adjustment. So from this angle, I am standing against the side of the truck, under the light and catching the hot spot, the width of brighter portion, and some shadow light all around.




To get a better picture of this, unfortunately the panoramic pic bends the lite upwards, life wise it was more the opposite of if not more flat [youll see in the next pic]. And this was shot standing on the rear bumper, hanging nearly over the light itself.


This was standing about 40-50 ft in front of the truck. More than enough light I think.... But, I think I am going to order a 12" and one more diffused lens just to see how much more light would or could be thrown from the same spot. I can always sell which ever one I don't use or repurpose it for another task. but I think I need to see the larger light to be sure.


thoughts on the side lights?



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Fri Apr 20th, 2018 02:50 pm
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I assume that the last pictures were through eh clear lens ?

It appears to be more of a spot beam than flood !

What's up with the Hot Spot, almost too much light focused in the middle for a Light Bar !

How many LEDs are in it and what type ?

Sorry for all of the questions, I could go to the sight and look but I got up half hour ago and walked the dog, breakfast and coffee comes next.

Thx / Ltr



____________________
Ltr,
2003 EDGE, Std Cab, Steppie, E4 Red, 5sp, 4x
5" SuperLift, 33" x 12.50 x 15"
Hurst Shifter
Mod'd Backrack to fit Steppie
Front and Rear Bumpers by Custom 4x4 Fabrication, OK.
Working on more Mods, just need more time, longer days would work !
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 Posted: Fri Apr 20th, 2018 10:20 pm
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Scrambler82 wrote:
I assume that the last pictures were through eh clear lens ?

It appears to be more of a spot beam than flood !

What's up with the Hot Spot, almost too much light focused in the middle for a Light Bar !

How many LEDs are in it and what type ?

Sorry for all of the questions, I could go to the sight and look but I got up half hour ago and walked the dog, breakfast and coffee comes next.

Thx / Ltr

Negative, that was the diffused lens. I set it back up for the spot [clear lens in pic 2] so i could take pics of the differences between the beam patterns.

The hot-spot is meant to be there as it does give a bit of a concentrated effort as well for distance if you aim it higher upwards but where it was from the truck itself distance wise on the ground is perfect for my needs. I can't say or at least agree that its a true "flood" type of lens which does confuse me a tad on why so many companies say either flood or diffused. Applications are everything as well as placement when dealing with that.

The combination of six (6) 7w Philips LEDs and 4D Projectors, this lil bugger puts out 2600 lumens @ 42w but they must have it dialed back some for heat or luminous efficacy because my calculations put it up over 3780 lumens with 42w. At 12.4v tho.. I like the fact it barely draws 3.5amps.

I'll take more pics tonight and post them up here, maybe a bit late but they'll be up tonight.



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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 Posted: Sat Apr 21st, 2018 07:43 am
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I got home a little late but it worked out well, clouds cleared up and had less light pollution reflecting back.

The 6.00" G4SR comes with a spot like lens and when lit up it gets a pretty fair distance, I had seen at least a good distance the other night but that wasn't the goal tonight. Tonight was the difference shown from "spot" to "diffused" and meeting the needs I want and as I stated above, I still want to see the 12.00" version yet but for now, lets continue on with my findings.


Starting off, here is under the light against the truck with the "spot" lens in place.


As you can see, the "spot" is exactly that.. a SPOT and I guess there are some slimline functionalities for such a beam and a long distance at that but I new the spot mode wasn't going to work for my needs and why I went diffused.


Here I lowered the light as needed and as you can see I elongated the Spot light but still doesn't give me the coverage I wanted. Some remarkable shadow light but I needed more.



In combination with the ditch lights behind the actual paddle mirrors I kept at this point. You can really see the huge light deficiency between the two light sources. This is where I did get disappointed in the 6" G4SR some. Clearly this is NOT the lens for my needs.



So back into the "Diffused" lens.., and.... using same angle.. much better.



And as I see it from the front direction.



Some positioning would be necessary to maximize all of the light and not to be too redundant, here lies the possibly excessive need for seeing the 12.00" G4SR in action before I choose one or the other.

Questions? Ideas.. thoughts?



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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In a concerted effort to keep things together. I am moving this in here as well for showing efforts and to add to.

I finally was doing something else tonight and I wanted to take some fresh pics of my under hood light efforts. Almost 3 years old, no issues with heat, no 2-sided tape concerns, it just works.

Here is from about 20 ft or so away, note the amount of shadow light surrounding the front of the truck area.


From about 6 ft away


3ft above the engine or so..



I modded the factory mercury switch, kept the waterproof secondary switch for the fact of the light is so bright that while off roading at night. The mercury switch bounces around and makes temporary contact and from inside the wheel liners, it looks like I have a mini-lighting storm going on under the hood. The WP switch also doubles as a switch to kill power to the light during the day when the light is unnecessary as the OEM one would require you to literally unplug it in order to do the same.. wasn't an option for me. All wiring neatly tucked and routed to eliminate any wire chaffing issues, shorts, etc.. 


All that was done to the factory Mercury switch was taking apart the two halves, soldering directly onto the internal contact rails for connections on the bulb side of things where the 921 bulb resided previously. Pretty straight forward still protected by the factory fusing too.


Also added another same light onto the glass window of the topper, only slightly smaller for the benefit of turning the tailgate into a work surface area for trail cooking at night, making some coffee or fishing in the cooler for a cold Kilt Lifter beer! Despite thoughts of wanting ALL of the light I could need or have, I decided to take it down a small notch from 44" to 28" for the rear light.

With the future addition of an 8pc rock light kit will assist in the under-illumination from within the front wheel wells for the lower portion of the engine bay and somewhat underneath, as well rear wheel wells, front and aft of the spare tire storage. This should give me all the additional illumination from under the truck should I need it. If not, I have several Streamlight flashlights that are USB rechargeable with extra batteries..

Just a refresh on an previous mod.

Last edited on Wed Apr 25th, 2018 08:50 am by Undrstm8ed



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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Well, the next few days I have parts coming in again. Procrastinated too long to redo the front end work. Much needed attention will be going in to it over the next couple weeks. So I'll be raking up my rockauto frequent flier miles..

First shipment came in today.. Upper and lower ball joints, inner/outer bearings and seals. I am missing the Axle pivot bushing, i think it may show up tomorrow or Monday.



Next shipment also coming in I think Mon/Tues should be new rebuild kit for the steering box, new seal for the pitman arm, and the two new rag-joints.  End of the week should be the new drag link, all new outer joints, and new calipers!!  I've had stainless steel lines sitting here in a box along with some Hawk Performance pads forever staring at me as I walk past them on the shelf nearly every day.

Which means.., Monday or Tuesday more likely I am dropping off the 95-97 Steering knuckles to get media blasted and sent off for powder coating in anticipation of those new twin-piston-NON-slide pin calipers, the Hawk brakes and new rotors. Which the rotors I will have to order this week too.

And.. I believe somewhere in between there my Snorkel kit should be dropping in as well so that will be also in the mix of things to do. Which is where this part and the modifying it took on comes into play.


Work-work-work but at least I get new parts in too, which also means by end of next month.. NEW Rolling stock and I'll be continuing on with a new set of Dynapro MT's, this time, with the full size spare. I think by mid summer I'll be making an addition to that too.  ;)



____________________
"Be never first, never last and never noticed." - Unknown

"The slave is held most securely when he is held by the chains of his own will and of his own fears, and when he is locked down by his own slavish desires for a comfortable life." - Michael Bunker

"Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur" - ~ attributed to Petronius (Gaius Petronius Arbiter (ca. 27–66 AD))
Roman courtier during the reign of Nero.

"Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigue of supporting it." - Thomas Paine


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~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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 Posted: Thu May 3rd, 2018 06:13 am
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Undrstm8ed
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I finally cut the seal on the Camburg box in preparation for the work that I'll actually be doing soon. Waiting on a 3-4 other shipments of items to trickle in this week and next. I'm really nerding out on these Stainless Brake lines from Camburg tho..




Man, I can't believe I waited this long to open these.. I love the ends, reminds me of the Big three Updated battery cables I put in.






Tomorrow Morning the newer 95' steering knuckles go to the shop to be sent out for media blasting and then they'll come back for inspection, and then powder coated. Which means I have less than a week to decide what color I am going to go with on the calipers. I want to do something sorta unique but in the theme of whats going on. So the typical colors with the exception of Red may be out. Got to go through my designs and idea list.. this is sometimes why it takes me so long to accomplish some things.




Adding new brake calipers, the Hawk pads, new rotors, brake shields, hardware, guide pins & seals, new upper/lower ball joints, bearings, seals, clean up the bolt heads if not replace them altogether.. etc.

I did think about trying to finding to find equal grade bolts and in Stainless Steel too but Not sure how those two dissimilar metals would work out. More research, expedited!

And I found out late this afternoon that my snorkel kit shipped out today.. I think I may do an un-boxing pictorial and do a video for the install. Everyone loves seeing someone take 3" hole saws to fenders!!

Feeling like a 12 year old that knows what he's getting for Christmas already. lol

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Last edited on Thu May 3rd, 2018 06:30 am by Undrstm8ed



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~ Undrstm8ed Truckumentry Write Up Pg.

~ Undrstm8ed Trailermentry Write Up Pg.
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