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The white one       #: 1045
 Moderated by: NoPower, Mike69, MaDMaXX Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  4  Next Page Last Page  
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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 05:17 pm
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JAMMAN

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So I did a pie cut.

Had a small flashlight in my mouth since I was in a hurry and needed both hands for the cutoff wheel.

When I got through the bolt the motor went "snap" and jumped up an inch and forward about 2.

Scared the crap out of me I think I jerked so hard I might have chipped a tooth with the flashlight.

Took the O sensor plugs off, and 2 plugs to the transmission. Motor STILL isn't out, the trans lines are attached somewhere under the passenger motor mount plate.

If I find that then the motor would come out, the TC stayed in everything looks fine.

I can't push it around till I fix the right rear brake drum....



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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 05:59 pm
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black06xlt
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Glad that worked for you. There should be a 13mm bolt just in front of the motor mount that has a clamp on it holding the tranny lines if I remember correctly



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1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
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2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
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2000 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 5 speed
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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 09:46 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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Yay





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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 09:49 pm
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black06xlt
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Now that's progress



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
1995 ranger splash reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd
2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
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 Posted: Fri Aug 24th, 2018 11:43 pm
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Eddie Money
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 Posted: Sat Aug 25th, 2018 12:55 am
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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Moved this to the project section since it has turned in to a major project.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2018 06:51 pm
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JAMMAN

Owns A Torsen


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I now own the reverse torx socket I need to remove the flywheel so I can put the motor on the engine stand.

I really want to get this over with it I have more regret for entering this project than any other I have started.

I really want to get to my V8. If I can get the rest of the tranny bolts in and can get the driveshaft in I'll bring it home where I can work on it in half hour bursts between being a dad, a husband and a home owner.

I cannot do this while this white elephant is still in my present.



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 Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2018 08:44 pm
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MaDMaXX

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JAMMAN wrote:
............where I can work on it in half hour bursts between being a dad, a husband and a home owner.........
Who would have thought this stuff would take up so much time :(



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 12:21 am
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JAMMAN wrote:
I now own the reverse torx socket I need to remove the flywheel....
Do you have a a pic of the flywheel straight on so I can see the bolts you're referring?  What's the advantage of that type of bolt over a standard 6 or 12 point one?

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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 12:27 am
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JAMMAN

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I will take a pic when I remove it, but no there is no advantage whatsoever diameter, height or strength wise.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 12:30 am
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JAMMAN

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Found one, looks like this:

Attachment: 37s.jpg (Downloaded 57 times)



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 01:01 am
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1qaz
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Thanks! Are those less likely to round off?

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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 01:30 am
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JAMMAN

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Not sure. Just a case where the socket becomes a screw and a screw becomes a socket. Given a grade 8 screw and an impact socket I would bet the chances of rounding would be virtually identical if you were pitting torx VS torx.

I believe a grade 8 hex head would be tougher being larger size.

Now if the head on that bolt was as large as the flange I would use it over a regular hex head.

I'm not against design changes and different methods if they are remarkably better but auto manufacturers have been using grade 8 hex heads for ages to hold flywheels to cranks I don't think they gained much and it is a strategy to sell more specialty tools.

But maybe that's just me (in my best Chuck Douglas voice).



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 03:34 am
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They don't round off, they shear. That is when they become a complete PITA.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 07:30 am
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Chris

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My guess it that the torx bolts are more to do with assembly methods, robots probably prefer the flanged torx :)



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 12:23 pm
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JAMMAN

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That's a great theory.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 01:12 pm
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black06xlt
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Chris wrote:
My guess it that the torx bolts are more to do with assembly methods, robots probably prefer the flanged torx :)
Alot of manufacturers use inverted torx for the smaller size of the bolt head compared to a conventional hex head bolt especially on engine parts and suspension parts



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2006 ranger xlt ext cab 4x4 4.0 auto
1992 ranger xlt reg cab 2wd 2.3 5 spd (SOLD)
1996 explorer Eddie Bauer 5.0 AWD sold
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2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0 4x4 auto
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 Posted: Sun Sep 2nd, 2018 02:34 pm
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Nicely done!
A good mechanic is patient! We battle on
Some projects fight you like this it is inevitable
Never ever ever give in



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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 04:35 pm
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JAMMAN

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Played for a while today.

Here were the flywheel bolts:



And now the little booger is on a stand



Had some new parts, chain and tensioner, cam synch, coils, wires, plugs just days before it did whatever it did





I'm going to have to take it apart before I put the new motor in. Why? Turning it back and forth I cannot feel a thing out of the ordinary. Wondering if there is anything inside the transmission or torque converter that could have been making that awful clanking rude sound because I don't feel anything turning the motor. I know what I heard when he started it, it was not rods or lifters it sounded like a wrench being pushed into the flywheel forcefully.

ALSO I know why that bolt was impossible to get out (the bottom 2 transmission bolts)... they aren't in the engine block. There are 2 tapped holes in the bottom of the aluminum cast oil pan that those bolts thread in to. Really. So the steel bolts corroded in the aluminum pan and were locked.

So GURUS- this thing was making a TERRIBLE noise grinding metal type noise extremely loud to the point it made me instantly scream "turn it off" to avoid any further damage.

I can't feel anything wrong with the motor turning it back and forth with a wrench. I will take it apart but what are the chances it is not the motor? Has any of you had extreme transmission or torque converter failure that sounded like scraping metal?



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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 05:25 pm
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JAMMAN

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Curiosity took over, removed oil pan, at least 2 rods knocking. Bearings completely wasted. This motor is scrap.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 07:00 pm
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MaDMaXX

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:(



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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 07:13 pm
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Thanks for posting the pic of the flywheel bolts.  From an engineering perspective, that's one way to get that much real estate in such a small area.  Sorry to hear about your motor.  Just another reason to find another one.

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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 08:25 pm
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More then likely torque converter or flywheel



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 Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2018 08:44 pm
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JAMMAN

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The reason I didn't recognize the noise is I have never heard one in that advanced of a stage without it already having thrown the rod. The rod cap I took off was completely dry, and the bearing had become welded to the crank journal. The inside of the rod cap was silver.

When I pulled the drain plug I knew something was going on. First I heard glub glub and a couple blobs of something came out. Then I got about a gallon of anti-freeze. Then some gravy. Last there was about a quart and a half of some of the blackest oil I had ever seen.

1qaz I have a motor, it is why I bought the green explorer. I was just making sure my transmission was good by verifying the motor was toast.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2018 12:09 am
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:puke

I'm going to have to pick up a truck to flip with a parts car just for the experience.

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